wilkingj
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| posted on 16/5/06 at 06:06 PM |
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Waahhhhh!!!!! Failed Again:(:(:(:(:(
Passed on the mirrors and indicators.
Failed on the brake ballance again.
Last time Got it right on the ballance, but failed on the roll pins.
Got the roll pins in, and now the back brakes have bedded in rather too nicely, they have doubled in their braking efficiency since the last test, so
we are back to the front / back ratio again.
At least I have 240 miles on the clock and all should be bedded in now.
So I need to move the ballance bar again or fit a restrictor in the back line.
Can someone confirm that to increase the front braking pressure you screw the bar over to that side, ie move the pivot ball towards the Mastercylinder
that you want more braking effect on.
Whats more it rained on the way home. didnt get too wet, but was a bit cold and painful on the face.
Have new re-test booked for thursday.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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nitram38
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| posted on 16/5/06 at 06:14 PM |
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Not knowing your brake setup, but I would wind your bias all the way to the fronts.
Your rears will still work.
Try to drive it again as see what happens.
If the rears still lock first, then you should go the restrictor route.
Can't remember which way to wind the bar, but you will be able to see which master cylinder moves first.
[Edited on 16/5/2006 by nitram38]
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Johnmor
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| posted on 16/5/06 at 06:22 PM |
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Brakes
I also have a Viento, I have adjusted the brakes so that the front grab quite soon as you press the pedal, wind pivot point towards the master
cylinder that you want to act first. On a loose surface the front lock way before the back and i can lock the front on the road with a good press but
cant lock the back .
With on a loose surface the rear actually pushes the front with both front wheels locked, that 200lbs of torque for you, lets see a BEC do that.
Good luck for the next time, your must surley pass this time .
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Liam
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| posted on 16/5/06 at 06:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
If the rears still lock first, then you should go the restrictor route.
If you can't get the balance right with the bias bar, your master cylinder sizes are wrong. Shouldn't need a restrictor aswell.
Liam
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nitram38
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| posted on 16/5/06 at 06:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Liam
quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
If the rears still lock first, then you should go the restrictor route.
If you can't get the balance right with the bias bar, your master cylinder sizes are wrong. Shouldn't need a restrictor aswell.
Liam
I overlooked that possibility!
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Wadders
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| posted on 16/5/06 at 08:22 PM |
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Stick a fiat uno valve in the back line, it will give you all the fine adjustment you need.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 16/5/06 at 10:15 PM |
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Right.. Just got in from the garage.
It appears that I had the lock nuts too tight against the clevis joint bit. This prevented the correct movement of the bar, thus changing the bias.
I have loosed it off a tiny bit, and will check tomorrow after having read the info from Snoopy (Thanks snoop!!)
I was just a little over adjusted on the nuts. Can lock the front wheels every time now. Been testing in the street.. Bet the neighbours are tut
tutting behind the net curtains
Have also had BIG problems starting when hot. a search on the internet dug up info on weber carbs on RV8's percolating the fuel when hot and not
running. This seemed to be the answer, so I got a nice edelbrock Heat resistant spacer, and fitted it. However the problem has got worse on todays run
and had severall stalls at critical moments going to chelmsford. I'm grateful to my 18 year old son, who bump started me 6 or 7 times today,
even on the A120, and at lights in the town.
Having fitted the spacer on the carb, I thought it could be something else.
I thought it may be coil related, ie not getting enough volts when cranking. Although it started well when cold.
So I put my test meter on the coil, and all the volts were there at the appropiate times. This is a Straight 12v non ballast sports coil. No
change.
So I got a spare plug and checked the spark. Well what a WOOSY spark I can create more electricity rubbing my T shirt in the dark
I have temporarily lashed up a ballasted coil I had spare in the garage, and it now starts every time even when hot.
So tomorrow I have just got to change the coil over and fit the resistor.
Looks like the coil is breaking down when hot.
The spark is much better, but still not brilliant, so I will be thinking of a MSD to liven things up a bit. Thats once I have the SVA sorted.
Lastly, I am most grateful for all the help and support you chaps have given me, especially whilst doing the SVA thing.
Hopefull the next visit will be the last
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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saigonij
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| posted on 17/5/06 at 07:03 AM |
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Can you post some pictures of your brake bias setup please...
Also please tell me what sizes of master cylinder you are running and - when sitting in the drivers seat, which is on the left and which is on the
right.
Thanks.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 17/5/06 at 08:51 AM |
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Sounds like you have nearly sussed it all out.
Interestingly i had similar hot problem. I thought fuel vaporisation too. It got steadily worse till it conked out for good. It turned out to be the
ignition amp and coil. Changed both and so far (140 miles) it has been fine.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 17/5/06 at 03:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by saigonij
Can you post some pictures of your brake bias setup please...
Also please tell me what sizes of master cylinder you are running and - when sitting in the drivers seat, which is on the left and which is on the
right.
Thanks.
Std set up. From memory, sitting in drivers seat - its .625 (fronts) on the right and .70 (Rears) on the left. The bias bar is cranked over to the
right ie the pivot ball is nearer the front M/Cyl, by a long way. Doesnt matter if they are left/right or right / left, as long as the bias bar is
cranked over the right way.
Seems ok, as I managed to lock front wheels at 20mph three times on the trot last night on dry tarmac.
Couldnt try too much as It would bring the neighbours out in droves.
I realise that one problem is I have Sierra 4x4 discs on the rear, and 240mm Sierra discs on the front (matches with Sierra Drum rear ends). The 4x4
rears should be paired with 255 / 260mm front discs, so I am a bit over braked on the back anyway. Its amazing what you learn when you read part
number catalogues for fun!!
Getting there slowly.
Back in the barrel again tomorrow morning.. In Chelmsford VOSA Station. Car will know where its going on its own!!
and thats nearly 350 miles of running in on SVA trips alone. Will start to open it up a little on the way home
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Donners90
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| posted on 17/5/06 at 06:51 PM |
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Strange....
I had exactly the same issue...
1st test OK, but not pinned
2nd test pinned, but failed on rear bias.
3rd test Pass!
They must have something against Vientos.
All I did was wind the bearing over to the front cylinder and re-pin it. All sorted.
Good luck for the next time.
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