mad4x4
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| posted on 29/6/06 at 04:13 PM |
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Ze Man from the SVA he say "No"
Ok So I failed the SVA - But hey it was a fun 100 miles 
Got the hit list now - Looking at it it isn't that bad considering.
Failures
1.Harness Belt Top Mounts to Low or seats to deep
2.Headlights Kick up wrong way – “maybe the inside can be rotated he said”
3.Hard Items
a Front Shock load plates and top to chassis
b Track Rods
c Headlamp mounts
d Seat belt anchorages top
e Exhaust clamps fail – need a guard or cover with plastic edging.
4.No Self Centering
5.Fixing bolts for Seat belt not stamped 8.8
6.Fuel line insecure (2 places)
7.Wiring insecure Engine bay & Rear (need proper clips to secure tie-wraps to chassis “don;t tie wrap round box section”
8.Park brake cable (rear) could rub chassis so could rear flexi – similar to above
9.Hydraulic brake pipes could rub chassis similar to above
10.Brake balance to much to rear (balance bar assembly ok)
11.Noise couldn't test (wrong figure given) but tested to 4k & looked good.
12.Emissions couldn't test (high) due to ford paperwork not having exact engine number (my reading error)
13.Boot cover need to be “solid” eg wood or metal not PVC.
14 Speedo not reading correctly.
Advised :
1)Use ford Wheel nuts – Aftemarket on front were “borderline”
2)VIN stamp dosn't read clearly enough
3)Didn't like the “mangrovemanworkshop” Track rod end covers
4)BIG NO NO ! Don't weld nuts onto Track rods bars. - any heating of these component is deemed a fail. This includes track rod ends etc.
5)Front indicators bounce about to much put in a strengthening plate where they go through the fiber glass.
6)Flexi split plastic tubing will protect the pipes & cables etc where they go through the chassis eg at rear diff.
7)Use gromets any time a wire or pipe goes throug the body eg rear lamps & fog light
8)Engine mounting nyloc bolt not through nyloc fully.
So I think re-test somewhere towards end of july at worst
[Edited on 29/606/06 by mad4x4]
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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Hellfire
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| posted on 29/6/06 at 04:28 PM |
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Simple (if very long) list...
Good luck with the re-test!
Hellfire
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tks
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| posted on 29/6/06 at 04:39 PM |
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simple
but time consuming to do list..
if i read correctly (correct me if i´m wrong)
you completely tiewrapped the brakes lines to the chasis? also with cables you did?
when doing that vibrations could kill the copper line.
use the famous P clips..they create a bit of distance and take away vibrations.
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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mad4x4
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| posted on 29/6/06 at 04:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tks
but time consuming to do list..
if i read correctly (correct me if i´m wrong)
you completely tiewrapped the brakes lines to the chasis? also with cables you did?
when doing that vibrations could kill the copper line.
use the famous P clips..they create a bit of distance and take away vibrations.
Tks
No the copper brake lines were all p clipped with rubber just touching the chassis in a couple of points. only the wires were cabletied round the
chassis in the reas and engine bay.
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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James
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| posted on 29/6/06 at 05:09 PM |
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Your fail point no 5: Seat belt bolts not marked 8.8.
I quote from the SVA book Chapter 5, Page 3, Note 1:
A suitable single bolt fixing of adequate strength would be, for example, a bolt of atleast 11mm (7/16" diameter of grade 8.8 (the grade may
not be shown on a bolts produced for a seat belt anchorage).
Hmmm,
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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mad4x4
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| posted on 29/6/06 at 05:13 PM |
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He needs doucmentary evediance that those bolts were suitable. I advised that they came with the belts but he wasn't having it. Said he needed
proof??
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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James
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| posted on 29/6/06 at 08:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mad4x4
He needs doucmentary evediance that those bolts were suitable. I advised that they came with the belts but he wasn't having it. Said he needed
proof??
That's not going to be easy.... although with my Word/Powerpoint skills it might not be too bad...
Cheers,
Frank Abagnale Jr.
[Edited on 29/6/06 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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Deckman001
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| posted on 29/6/06 at 09:19 PM |
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 I didn't like 13, about the boot cover, I was intending to do the same and have a vinyl cover as well
Jason
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James
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| posted on 29/6/06 at 10:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Deckman001
I didn't like 13, about the boot cover, I was intending to do the same and have a vinyl cover as well
Jason
Yes, me too.
Ordered my boot vinyl today!
I think I'll just screw a ply panel in underneath the vinyl. It may just fall out on the way home!
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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mad4x4
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| posted on 30/6/06 at 11:54 AM |
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That was the man from the SVA's advice. including the fallout part
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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whitestu
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| posted on 30/6/06 at 12:49 PM |
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some of my wiring [inside split sleeving] is tie wrapped to chassis.
Did the SVA man say how it should be fastened, and why tie wraps are not OK?
Thanks
Stu
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ReMan
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| posted on 1/7/06 at 08:54 AM |
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Bad luck, though the list looks long most seem easily sortable.
I was just about to have a boot lid made too, but have now started an mdf creation on the strength of this
Good luck with the retest
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Baldrick
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| posted on 2/7/06 at 03:22 PM |
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Do you know where in the SVA manual it says the rear cover has to be rigid? I passed with a vinyl cover and so have quite a few others to my
knowledge. I have a full boot underneath the vinyl now but not for the SVA.
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