jmbillings
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 posted on 29/10/03 at 11:15 PM |
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F*$king Cavalier fuel pumps!
OK, so some of you may recall that when we tried geting our 4age running we were hampered by the fuel pump siezing. We got a couple of new ones from a
scrappy and all was well, we've driven quite a few test miles without a hitch... until tonight! A mile from home, the engine cut- same as
before, fuel pump siezed. Goes clunk, but wont run. So, after pushing the car back  we need to figure out why it happened, cuz once I could put down
to bad luck, but a second?
We wonder if our swirl pot isn't doing its job properly- would a few seconds of starvation be enough to overheat the pump to the point of
sticking? Or what if it isn't designed for the pressure our system uses? Need to check the figures, but is it conceivable that the back pressure
is too much for it to cope with, pushing the spinny bits against the metal they run in so they then overheat and stick?
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zetec
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| posted on 30/10/03 at 05:21 AM |
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I presume you are running fuel injection...I also use Vx parts, injectors and pump all have which have been fine. That said my local scrappy said the
pumps do sell quickly which suggests they don't last forever, and those off a scrapped car will have run for a long time before you get hold of
it! I run at 3.25 bar, I know this might sound daft but you I take it you are running a return to the tank after the regulator/fuel rail. For £100 you
should be able to pick up a new pump, might be the way to go if no other problem found. I will check how hot mine runs and let you know. Might also be
worth checking the pre pump filter, I was told to fit a high flow "Bullet" style one.
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CairB
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| posted on 30/10/03 at 07:29 AM |
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I agree with zetec regarding the inlet filter. I had a pump go a similar way on an injected pinto. When I stripped it there was a very small piece of
plastic swarf from the tank jamming it, despite thorough cleaning. Another from the scrappy and an inlet filter have given over 3k miles without
problem since.
The pump mechanism should be kept cool due to the fuel. The main heat will be from the motor.
BTW, mine failed in the garage
Cheers,
Colin
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Rob Lane
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| posted on 30/10/03 at 08:34 AM |
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I used up 2 scrap yard Cav pumps before I realised you need a full canister filter before and after pump. It's vital a good filter is fitted
pre pump!!
The tiniest swarf or dirt in fuel will sieze the pump as it runs at 5 thou clearance from rotor.
The filter canister for a Cav can be obtained cheaply. I got one from Halfrauds, it's about 50mm round by 85mm long.
Incidently the reason they sell so well from scrappy, is that in the Cav they are in the worst position imaginable. Under car near rear arch, in full
flow of dirt, grit, salt etc.
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 30/10/03 at 07:26 PM |
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Two of the lads at work have cavaliers, every cav I write off has its pump removed before it goes to salvage and a duff one replaced.
They have the lifespan of the average butterfly
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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jmbillings
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| posted on 31/10/03 at 09:19 AM |
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Thanks for the responses folks- as it didn't seem to have a filter on the Cav we didn't fit one pre-pump, but sounds like we should have.
One has been allocated and will be fitted forthwith. Or something 
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 31/10/03 at 06:15 PM |
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I drive a Cav GSi, and it's got a filter before the pump, and a regulator after.
Seeing as they are so sort after, i better keep my eyes out for them 
P.S. the Nova GTE/GSI uses the same pump or similar. Cos the 2.0L Nova boys use the nova one.
Ben
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Stu16v
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| posted on 31/10/03 at 06:27 PM |
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Amazing innit? That really is the first time I have heard of VX fuel pumps failing...
AFAIK all the VX injection pumps are the same if mounted outside the tank.
But, any leccy pump (in fact, make that ANY pump) deserves a pre filter to give it a decent life span.
Dont just build it.....make it!
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