tegwin
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 08:09 PM |
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Pre-SVA panick photos
Ok...So the SVA is on Wednesday and im not ready!
I keep going round the car adding bits here and there, neatening things up, but I could still be at it this time next year if I wanted to...
So I figured I would take some photos and let you well educated gentlemen give me some pointers....
I have not finished by any means...I ran out of edge trim, but should get more tommorow.
First off, the front end...(yes the shock and trackrod need covering) [NB..thats shite not rust]
I am unsure what to cover the ends of the chassis members with where the wishbones slot in....Its deffinately going to be contactable...unless the
indicator prevents contact?
The other big panick is the shiny dashboard...im not sure if the edges of the steel panel where they meet the dash will pass...they are vaguly
sharp...not enough to cut you mind...
 
[Edited on 17/3/08 by tegwin]
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Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
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richard
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 08:20 PM |
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Good luck with the sva, mine is on 28 March so know how you feel. I am no expert and do not have sva manual to hand but is there not a max amount that
you can have projections from dashboard, 9.5 mm ?. how far do your choke and heater controls stick out ? do not mean to worry you.
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oldtimer
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 08:22 PM |
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Is the 'shite' an anti examiner thing????!!....Seat belt labels?? does the rubber hose over nuts/bolt heads pass??
The front indicator stalks look super long, was all that necessary to get to 400mm spacing from the wheel outer ??
Best of luck you're miles ahead of me!
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RichardK
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 08:26 PM |
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Haven't sva'd mine yet so I'm by no means an expert but apart from the normal bits I would pay special attention to rounding over
the upper wishbone bracket corners, the brake lines near the bulk head and the front mudguards must cover the side walls of the tyres and be in fron
of the front rim which I think yours are but the last pictures looks like the drivers side inside wall could be viewed from above.
The sva expert will be along shortly I'm sure.
Cheers
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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brynhamlet
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 08:43 PM |
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Electrical self amalgating tape for your track rods, shocks and any number of other bits. Bit like electrical tape, but as name suggests is semi
permanent
Check radius's etc on exhaust, I ended up grinding one bolt to put a radius on it and made a little shield to cover the rear fixing.
U-shaped strip as per Woolies catalogue (on-line) to protect sharp edges
Good luck, the fail on my first attempt filled two pages!!!
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Guinness
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 08:44 PM |
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Hi Tegwin
One of the fail points on my first SVA was the front wishbone bracket, which stuck out a bit on the drivers side, but was covered by the bulge in the
MK nose on the passenger side.
In the end I made a wing thing out of an off cut of dash, riveted it to the return on the nose cone and trimed the edge with some herringbone trim.
 
for tegwin
Hope it helps. P.S. it's still on after a few years and several thousand miles! Whoops.
You should also be able to see the trim I applied to the bottom of the headlights and the top shocker mount.
Cheers
Mike
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snapper
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 09:24 PM |
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Went to SVA with a 2B Super Spec of a mate a few weeks ago in Norfolk and got talked through the process by the examiner, nice bloke.
Buy a load of nut covers from Tifosi they are garunteed SVA proof, cover track rod adjusters with covers from Tifosi.
Your lower switches stick ot to far and will be a fail and the one he also talked about and demonstrated was the trip meter button on your speedo is
a definate fail as on a Sierra it is the exempt zone behind the steering wheel. The examiner demonstrated the big dome and in the centre of said dome
is a flat the size of a 5p that can move when it hits something, if it extends out the back of the handle its a fail, about 5mm, so cut down and bevel
your trip button.
Also the allen bolts on your suspension may need to prove 8.8 or above hardness which is usualy shown on standard bolts.
Wiring loom and fuel pipes p clipped every 300mm or closer.
Edge trim on your screen pillars
And i do belive that the suction rear view mirror is another fail
Have you visited the Robin Hood owners club site?
Worth a look as these guys have done it hundreds of time with just this car
http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?act=Home
[Edited on 17/3/08 by snapper]
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 09:30 PM |
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I think that you still have some work to do, unfortunately. Track rod nuts, for example, and those switches over the transmission tunnel are a
worry.
If you have any doubts, postpone the test ASAP - if you give them 24 hours notice there's no penalty AFAIK.
But it's your call!
Good luck, whatever you decide.
David
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 10:00 PM |
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Don't stress about the SVA, it really isn't anything to worry about. The likelihood is the tester will find something that fails no matter
how hard you try and if so it really doesn't matter how much you fail on - do your best and let the SVA tester tell you what else needs
doing.
If you try to cover every single little thing you'll probably do loads of work that wasn't even necessary. Just make it look presentable
and let Mr SVA guide you on what you need to do to pass.
I've always said that £30 for a retest is far more likely to get you on the road than the same money spent on the manual.
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caber
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 10:13 PM |
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Go do the SVA then fix whatever they fail, there is always something! Make sure all your back lights are vertical, I did something similar to Guiness
for my front end but I just used some ally sheet.
I think your steering wheel will fail as there are exposed edges of bare metal, putting the donor one on will also increase the safe area that may
solve some of your switch problems.
Caber
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 18/3/08 at 08:52 AM |
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The only back light that needs to be vertical is the fog light (or its reflector needs to be vertical anyway).
All the rest just need to be at sensible angles.
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bob
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| posted on 18/3/08 at 10:05 AM |
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As said earlier take the test and with the attitude that if a fail is on the horizon at least you will have a fail list to work with, i ended up with
large rubber gators over the top and bottom of the coilovers and rubber edgeing glued/siliconed everywhere else.
I know it shouldnt look temporary but the examininer likes to see an attempt to make good, i've sen convoluted tube used to good effect on the
steering tie to track rod and i used bike innertube covered tightly with electrical tape in places.
Try to keep calm and good luck on weds 
 
Rescued attachment MK Indy build pics 168.jpg
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DarrenW
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| posted on 18/3/08 at 10:31 AM |
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Some rubber bits like bob says are good idea but dont use electrical tape to hold them on - some testers dont like that. I went for cable ties
instead.
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bob
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| posted on 18/3/08 at 12:25 PM |
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As darren said
I got away with it but it was 4 years a ago and they get wise, its always a good idea to carry a few bits with you to the test like cable ties and
edgeing.
We have an ever growing box of bits down here which is passed around, its worked well so far.
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