Does anyone know where I can get some of those plastic end caps that push fit into 25x25mm square tube steel?

TIA

Nick

MK Engineering.

Normally you can find these in a general hardware store, these are used in general furniture constructions

Are they water tight enough to be used on external ones? i was gonna post about end caps soon...

cant find the bit in the book, so i was gonna use 16gauge plates over the ends.

I was going to 'stick' them in using some silicone sealant to make sure they are watertight.

My MK chassis only needs 2 caps, so I reckon the hardware stores worth a look.

Cheers

Nick

The end caps come in sizes suitable for light gauge and heavy gauge tubing. It's the light gauge stuff you need. You may be able to get them from the same place where you bought your tubing from.

That'll be MK then!

I'm having a look through RS/Farnell at work to see if I can order some on the sly.

Cheers

Nick

Weld the holes up

Stronger than plastic and waterproof

ATB

Simon

I welded mine up last week, easy job and is going to be better than a plastic thingy (IMHO) my pics will be updated soon...

Ned.

Not up for welding me!

Plus chassis is already painted with the floor riveted on next to the hole I want to fill.

Cheers

Nick

i've used them........

Silicon Seal them in!

Nick,

I'm kind of suprised they aren't supplied welded by MK....

Ned.

Probably couldn't be bothered to do them

Don't use silicone unless it is the type approved for use on electronics. Regular silicone uses a corrosive ingredient (Vinegar) that can cause the tubes to rust.


I would suggest a metal cube (Aluminum) cut to fit tightly and epoxy (JB Weld if you can get it) in place. A hard insert will give better rigidity than a soft plug.

An old trick from aircraft construction (tube & fabric) is to drill the tubes at the joints so all the tubes are inter-connected with all but one tube capped, then a small amount of boiled linseed oil is poured into the frame, and the last opening sealed up. The linseed oil will coat the interior of the frame tubes giving a fair level of corrosion resistance.

[Edited on 1/10/03 by The Shootist]

how does the oil get around to coat all the tubes?

probably turn it over and over in different directions lol

maybe cos its boiling, so the linseed oil steam will coat the inner surfaces??

Lots of good ideas guys, but I think a plastic cap and some PU sealant that I used for the floor will suffice.

Cheers

Nick

thats what i did.

do not put aluminium blocks into steel tubes - never heard of dissimilair metal corrosion ?

[Edited on 2/10/03 by protofj]

yeh, if your going to make u something in metal... use steel and weld it in, i did this most places.... some places just have plastic plugs

Nick

Did you ever find a supplier for your plastic end caps ?

If so how much did they put you back ?

I'v just been checking out RS components and they are offering them @ about £6 for 12 plus vat and delivery....

I'd be surprised if MK forgot to put them in...

... IMHO, most people tend to forget to take them out before they send the chassis to be plastic coated and they burn up!

Regarding oil, steel is porous and it will eventually seep through the section, causing the caoting to fall off!

Talked to MK yetserday and they cannot supply them......

Nick, I think I have a bag of the said 25mm x 25mm plugs somewhere in the garage. Bought them from a guy who puts together warehouse shelving.

How many do you need, drop me your address on U2U and I send them at the weekend if I can find them.

If you ca't find any take a look at towsure.co.uk they sell them individually and cost pennies.

i got my plastic bungs from tiger racing they cost £ 5.00 for a bag

I fiberglassed my holes (ooo hah)

unless you have the chassis coated with Special paint why not weld them and dab on a little paint. You'll probably need to weld on brackets to hold the brake flexies anyway.

I've weld mine on .

Andy