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Soldering aluminium
markt0121 - 27/10/10 at 12:20 PM

Requirement for IVA is that all contactable sheet metal edges are folded over. So I was thinking about soldering a strip onto the underside edges of my aluminium bonnet/hood, then rounding the edge to try and make it look folded. Panel is already cut to size so it's too late to just fold the edge and I'm not sure I would be able to get the curve right if I try and make another. Any ideas if I'd get away with this?

Also has anyone any experience of using the aluminium solder available in B&Q etc. I bought a few of the packs as they were clearing them out cheap. Just wondering if I might end up getting distortion of the curved panel from the soldering.

tegwin - 27/10/10 at 12:22 PM

I have tried using the magiweld alli stuff... its ok, but its so so easy to blow holes in the workpiece and unless you are very lucky it looks cack..

IMHO, get some clip on rubber edging or something else equally easy to fit.

Macbeast - 27/10/10 at 01:23 PM

It's VERY difficult to solder aluminium as it oxidises almost instantly. There HAS to be an easier way to solve your problem.

MakeEverything - 27/10/10 at 02:28 PM

Alumiweld is pretty good, but as above, not for show pieces such as bonnets etc.

I would just use a clip on edging.

irvined - 27/10/10 at 02:30 PM

Agreed, you want to avoid soldering ali, it can be done, but its messy, requires the patience of job, and looks terrible.

02GF74 - 27/10/10 at 02:32 PM

quote:
Originally posted by markt0121
Requirement for IVA is that all contactable sheet metal edges are folded over. So I was thinking about soldering a strip onto the underside edges of my aluminium bonnet/hood,


are you sure you are interpreting this correctly?

is this not for exposed edges? the bonnet will not have epxosed edges as the front and rear sit in lip in nose cone and scuttle repsectively and the sides butt up to the side panels.

my undersanding is the above rule applies if say you made a mudguards from curved aluminium sheet, at least that is how I think it was for SVA.

mark chandler - 27/10/10 at 02:47 PM

Bang some U section rubber over the sharp edges, its cheap and easy to obtain.

BenB - 27/10/10 at 03:23 PM

The B+Q ali soldering rods are shite. The technoweld friction stick brazing rods are good but you do need the bits held in place and if you tried to braze a drivetunnel you'ld need a bloody big torch because ali is a good conductor and even on small pieces I've had to pre-heat them in a toast warm domestic oven...

02GF74 - 27/10/10 at 04:09 PM

instead of soldering the strip, stick it on using PU; if surfaces clean, it will be more than strong enough for your purposes.

Mix - 27/10/10 at 04:22 PM

Hi

My interpretation of IVA is as per 02GF74 above - the bonnet would not normally have any 'exposed' edges.

Regards Mick

markt0121 - 27/10/10 at 09:51 PM

Thanks everyone, I think I'll forget about soldering.

The car is a YKC roadster rather than a locost, but I've been finding the forum very usefull for other information so thought it would be a good place to ask the question. Has the centre hinged side opening bonnet and its the front and rear edges that are just cut to size. Cut it years ago before SVA and still not finished.

Most other cars of this type I think use the rubber edging strip, but I was just trying to find an alternate that won't be ugly enough to fall off after IVA.

Might try glue or possibly build up the rear edge of the nosecone so there is more of a lip for the bonnet to fit against.

splitrivet - 28/10/10 at 09:46 AM

Ive got a hinged bonnet and used push on plastic chrome edging the type used on mini seams. This was glued on with PU just in case there were any issues with it not being permanent, looks good.
I would have thought folding ali would be a nightmare so thats why I went with the above.
Cheers,
Bob

Bluemoon - 28/10/10 at 11:28 AM

I have played with Ali soldering it's great but not easy or realy suitable for what you want. Just get some edge trim it's simple approach..

Dan