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wishbone Design
Daddylonglegs - 7/1/09 at 09:29 AM

Right!

I've read dozens of threads, tried a few threads myself to which I have had some really helpful answers, but I really need to nail this 'cos it's driving me insane!!

The plan is:

1. To cater for the fact I am building a +442, I need to lengthen the wishbones.

2. I want to try and keep the ratio of length:width the same as the originals to preserve the bending load figures.

3. I am running a 52" axle and 10mm spacers to give me a reasonable clearance for the rear wheels (not massive but hopefully enough)

The trouble is, this means exrtending the distance from lower bone balljoint to centre of bushes from 340mm to 410mm. To maintain the ratio this means that the distance between mount outer edges increases from 343mm to 404mm!!

The same for the top bone makes the new spacing 288mm!!

My question is, do I reduce the width between bushes slightly and try and use the existing LA/LB and FU1/FU2 or do I move FU1 and FU2?

I am just worried about loads and weak spots!

Sorry for the essay so early in the morning but this is doing my head in and I can't really move on until I get this sorted.

Thanks all.


JoelP - 7/1/09 at 09:38 AM

i would just keep the mounts in the same place myself, and change the angle of the legs. If you are concerned about affecting strength, you could up the tube gauge, but i myself wouldnt be worried about that.


mr henderson - 7/1/09 at 09:38 AM

The front track doesn't have to be the same as the rear, so you may not need to increase the width by so much, if at all.

Some pictures or diagrams of the parts in question would help a lot

John


Mr Whippy - 7/1/09 at 09:38 AM

whats wrong with having the front narrower than the back? makes no odds really and there's plenty of good handling cars like that like that, Testerosa, Countach to name a couple. If the fronts working then I'd say sod it and leave it the way it is


Daddylonglegs - 7/1/09 at 09:45 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
whats wrong with having the front narrower than the back? makes no odds really and there's plenty of good handling cars like that like that, Testerosa, Countach to name a couple. If the fronts working then I'd say sod it and leave it the way it is


I'm just going on what I was told by one of the chaps at the Stafford show (on a chassis tuning stand). He reckoned that the slightly wider front gave a little more understeer to reduce the risk of a 'pendulum' effect if being a little heavy on the right foot coming out of corners

I'm no expert so couldn't really say one way or the other but what he said seemed to make sense?


Daddylonglegs - 7/1/09 at 09:48 AM

quote:
Originally posted by mr henderson
The front track doesn't have to be the same as the rear, so you may not need to increase the width by so much, if at all.

Some pictures or diagrams of the parts in question would help a lot

John



John, I'm working on the premise that the book design (for all it's other faults) was probably OK in the handling department so as the axle was 100mm wider and I also had 20mm extra in the form of spacers, that I should increase the front wishbones by the same amount to keep the realtionship between the two.

John


mr henderson - 7/1/09 at 09:59 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Daddylonglegs
quote:
Originally posted by mr henderson
The front track doesn't have to be the same as the rear, so you may not need to increase the width by so much, if at all.

Some pictures or diagrams of the parts in question would help a lot

John



John, I'm working on the premise that the book design (for all it's other faults) was probably OK in the handling department so as the axle was 100mm wider and I also had 20mm extra in the form of spacers, that I should increase the front wishbones by the same amount to keep the realtionship between the two.

John


I knew that was why you wanted to do it, I was just saying that it isn't strictly necessary. Car design involves a lot of compromise, and changing one thing to improve some aspect may have a less desirable effect elsewhere.

I've not studied that 442 design in detail, but, faced with the situation you are describing, I would not be at all surprised if I decided to keep the front as is.

John


Mr Whippy - 7/1/09 at 10:03 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Daddylonglegs
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
whats wrong with having the front narrower than the back? makes no odds really and there's plenty of good handling cars like that like that, Testerosa, Countach to name a couple. If the fronts working then I'd say sod it and leave it the way it is


I'm just going on what I was told by one of the chaps at the Stafford show (on a chassis tuning stand). He reckoned that the slightly wider front gave a little more understeer to reduce the risk of a 'pendulum' effect if being a little heavy on the right foot coming out of corners

I'm no expert so couldn't really say one way or the other but what he said seemed to make sense?


hmm I bet you could find 101 different opinions on such things...

considering then number of cars produced with the front wider than the rear I'd say that one goes on the 'less believable' shelf


mr henderson - 7/1/09 at 10:11 AM

I've been digging in my memory pit, and have come up with the fact that the 442 is designed to provide the extra width body but using a standard nosecone.

If you feel that you must have the front track the same as the rear, you could just increase the width of the chassis rather than the length of the wishbones.


Daddylonglegs - 7/1/09 at 10:12 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
quote:
Originally posted by Daddylonglegs
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
whats wrong with having the front narrower than the back? makes no odds really and there's plenty of good handling cars like that like that, Testerosa, Countach to name a couple. If the fronts working then I'd say sod it and leave it the way it is


I'm just going on what I was told by one of the chaps at the Stafford show (on a chassis tuning stand). He reckoned that the slightly wider front gave a little more understeer to reduce the risk of a 'pendulum' effect if being a little heavy on the right foot coming out of corners

I'm no expert so couldn't really say one way or the other but what he said seemed to make sense?


hmm I bet you could find 101 different opinions on such things...

considering then number of cars produced with the front wider than the rear I'd say that one goes on the 'less believable' shelf


I think you are probably right there

Please tell me though that you mean front 'narrower' than the back on production cars otherwise I'm even more confused


Mr Whippy - 7/1/09 at 10:28 AM

thats my point, there isn't any that produce a car with the front wider that the back, unless its a 3 wheeler

Honestly there's much better ways of dealing with oversteer, which is hardly an issue on a 7 anyway. If you want an example of bad cars for pendulum effect and oversteer look at a beetle or porsche, none have ever had the front wider than the back to sort it or ever even heard that being recommended.

All reminds me of my mad b$st$rd mkI Capri what a car for fish tailing who ever thought 3ltrs could be so much fun



[Edited on 7/1/09 by Mr Whippy]


Richard Quinn - 7/1/09 at 10:40 AM

Interesting discussion HERE from a couple of years back


Mr Whippy - 7/1/09 at 11:00 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Richard Quinn
Interesting discussion HERE from a couple of years back


gods reminds me of star trek forums when their 'discussing' who was the best captain...

which is Kirk btw, just don’t even start to disagree!!!


Daddylonglegs - 7/1/09 at 11:04 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
thats my point, there isn't any that produce a car with the front wider that the back, unless its a 3 wheeler

Honestly there's much better ways of dealing with oversteer, which is hardly an issue on a 7 anyway. If you want an example of bad cars for pendulum effect and oversteer look at a beetle or porsche, none have ever had the front wider than the back to sort it or ever even heard that being recommended.

All reminds me of my mad b$st$rd mkI Capri what a car for fish tailing who ever thought 3ltrs could be so much fun



[Edited on 7/1/09 by Mr Whippy]


DOH!

Sorry m8, being a complete numpty again!

I guess my head is so full of suspension issues I am not with it (that's my excuse anyhow )

Must admit, I borrowed a Capri 3Litre S some years back and it was 'Fun'


Daddylonglegs - 7/1/09 at 11:08 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Richard Quinn
Interesting discussion HERE from a couple of years back


Blimey! am I glad I didn't read that before I started to even think about the track widths


Richard Quinn - 7/1/09 at 11:31 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
quote:
Originally posted by Richard Quinn
Interesting discussion HERE from a couple of years back


gods reminds me of star trek forums when their 'discussing' who was the best captain...

which is Kirk btw, just don’t even start to disagree!!!
gods indeed! It's no use referring to them as them. You were obviously there too. I rest my case M'Lud!


Mr Whippy - 7/1/09 at 12:05 PM

no comment


907 - 7/1/09 at 12:08 PM

IMHO, if you lengthen a wishbone then you should also increase the tube diameter or wall thickness, or both.

It's not so much an issue for me as I have built a +4, (4" added to the centre of the car, front to back) so my
bones are book length. (caster dim changed to aid self centering)

It does make the front track slightly narrower than the back, but as I understand it that's how a book car is.


Paul G


MikeRJ - 7/1/09 at 12:39 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
thats my point, there isn't any that produce a car with the front wider that the back, unless its a 3 wheeler


The Citroen Visa GTi had a wider front track than rear, and that handled pretty well.


johnston - 7/1/09 at 01:04 PM

I think the 205 gti is the same, wider front track.

And I think evo's and scoobies are the same.

My volvo 240 donor also had wider front track, and if memory serves me right it got wider in later models and back stayed the same!!

I was also told it improves turn in..


t.j. - 7/1/09 at 01:04 PM

quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
thats my point, there isn't any that produce a car with the front wider that the back, unless its a 3 wheeler


The Citroen Visa GTi had a wider front track than rear, and that handled pretty well.


A Visa handling well, I just can't be... next your saying you like the 2CV


Richard Quinn - 7/1/09 at 01:13 PM

If you make it to the end of the thread I posted earlier, you will see that it's not just the Citroen Visa GTi. There's also the Noble m15 (89mm wider at front), Ferrari F430 (53mm wider at the front) and the Lamb Gallardo (30mm wider at the front)


Daddylonglegs - 7/1/09 at 01:25 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Richard Quinn
If you make it to the end of the thread I posted earlier, you will see that it's not just the Citroen Visa GTi. There's also the Noble m15 (89mm wider at front), Ferrari F430 (53mm wider at the front) and the Lamb Gallardo (30mm wider at the front)


Unfortunately I did make it to the end and now I am really confused

Soooo....I am going to go with the widest seperation I can for the pick-off points without modding the chassis, and I will make the bones as long as I need to to maintain the ratio I was banging on about earlier in this thread. If the front is narrower than the back then SOD IT! I'll just have to be more careful on the old right foot

BTW 907, yes I am using different steel. I will be using 25mm x 2mm CDS tube for the bottom and 20mm x 2mm for the top.

JB


l0rd - 7/1/09 at 02:11 PM

Most old renaults are wider on the front than the rear.

I remember someone telling me that the Renault's 5 rear wheels had uneven lenght if you measured them from the front ones.


Phil.J - 7/1/09 at 02:21 PM

If you intend to compete with the car, when you are just brushing the Armco with your front wheel if the track is wider at the front at least you will know that the rear wheels aren't going to thump the metal!


Daddylonglegs - 7/1/09 at 02:46 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Phil.J
If you intend to compete with the car, when you are just brushing the Armco with your front wheel if the track is wider at the front at least you will know that the rear wheels aren't going to thump the metal!


God no! I'm not that brave I'd be worried about trashing my hard work

Don't think I'm good enough to compete (except for my bit of the queen's highway as the need arises )


mr henderson - 7/1/09 at 03:29 PM

It seems that there are various solutions available for this problem, if indeed it is a problem.

Quite often a pointer to the answer can be found in defining the question. Before that can be done a number of decisions need to be made, and those will depend on such things as
the intended purpose of the car
the funds available
the time available
the facilities available
how soon the project needs to be completed
etc
etc
etc

John


Daddylonglegs - 7/1/09 at 03:44 PM

quote:
Originally posted by mr henderson
It seems that there are various solutions available for this problem, if indeed it is a problem.

Quite often a pointer to the answer can be found in defining the question. Before that can be done a number of decisions need to be made, and those will depend on such things as
the intended purpose of the car
the funds available
the time available
the facilities available
how soon the project needs to be completed
etc
etc
etc

John


Okey Dokey:

the intended purpose of the car - road use for fun
the funds available - not many
the time available - see next but one point
the facilities available - cold, cramped and cluttered garage
how soon the project needs to be completed - ASAP if I'm to avoid the IVA

So I think it's a case of 'getting on with it' and see what happens.

Oh, and BTW, thanks for all the input guys, feel free to comment at will (whoever will is )

John


liam.mccaffrey - 7/1/09 at 04:32 PM

I was building a +442 and I wanted to keep the original mx5 track which meant custom wishbones. I also moved the fu tubes
FYI The tube was bigger at 3/4"x1/8" wall CDS tubing.



[Edited on 7/1/09 by liam.mccaffrey]


Daddylonglegs - 7/1/09 at 04:42 PM

quote:
Originally posted by liam.mccaffrey
I was building a +442 and I wanted to keep the original mx5 track which meant custom wishbones. I also moved the fu tubes
FYI The tube was bigger at 3/4"x1/8" wall CDS tubing.



Did U move the FU tubes b4 or after the chassis had been built?


liam.mccaffrey - 7/1/09 at 05:05 PM

actually I built it arse about face, I built the front angled assembly(LA and LB) then built the wishbones between an adjustable position jig holding the hub/upright and the suspension brackets on LA and LB.

It was only then I made and fitted the FU tubes to the free suspension bracket attached to the free end of the top and bottom bones. Does that make sense??

so to asnwer your question I changed their position before the chassis was finished

Check out my build diary below for some pics

[Edited on 7/1/09 by liam.mccaffrey]

[Edited on 7/1/09 by liam.mccaffrey]


Daddylonglegs - 7/1/09 at 08:16 PM

quote:
Originally posted by liam.mccaffrey
actually I built it arse about face, I built the front angled assembly(LA and LB) then built the wishbones between an adjustable position jig holding the hub/upright and the suspension brackets on LA and LB.

It was only then I made and fitted the FU tubes to the free suspension bracket attached to the free end of the top and bottom bones. Does that make sense??

so to asnwer your question I changed their position before the chassis was finished




Yep, makes total sense. Trouble for me though is that I have already welded in FU1 and FU2 so it would mean cutting/grinding them out and making new ones. I am not sure what impact that would have on strength around that area?

Also, wouldn't that affect the angle of th FU tubes wrt the chassis bottom?


mr henderson - 7/1/09 at 08:23 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Daddylonglegs


Yep, makes total sense. Trouble for me though is that I have already welded in FU1 and FU2 so it would mean cutting/grinding them out and making new ones. I am not sure what impact that would have on strength around that area?



Haven't you had to do that already at some point in your build? Excellent.

Get a thin cutting disc for your angle grinder and go for it. Done properly it won't have any affect on the strength.

John


Daddylonglegs - 7/1/09 at 08:32 PM

Thanks for that.

Nope, not had to do that yet, not due to error anyhow, just to alter the side rails to my liking.

So far been really lucky with warping etc, but there is still time

Think I'll sleep on it and make a call tommorrow.

John


liam.mccaffrey - 7/1/09 at 08:35 PM

to be honest i think you could just build your custom bones to the site where your FUs are now and not worry about the ratio's.
if you are worried about strength throw in an extra gusset or strut like i have with my top bones

if you are worried though its really no big deal to chop out the FU's and follow the kind of custom bone route i did, it was really easy.


I wont lie its was time consuming I spent a week of days doing little else. I was really please with them though

[Edited on 7/1/09 by liam.mccaffrey]