if its good enough for porsche, its good enough for me only worry now then, is i need 24 of them
bearing in mind alloy hubs are quite acceptable, i quite fancy blue anodised wheel nuts, but i'm not really sure if they're right or not
I,ve got a set, they are fine.
I had a 928 porche, the cup alloy wheels weighed next to nothing, the nuts could have floated ! Factory standard so no concerns here.
excellent if its good enough for porsche, its good enough for me
only worry now then, is i need 24 of them
well call me old fashioned...but I don't like the sound of them tbh and what's the weight saving really compaired to the rest of the car? Personally I'd still use steel ones
Didnt know you could get alloy ones 
I had a full set given to me by a customer who makes them, watching thread with interest as I never gave it a thought.
Pete
porche 968 had them as standard what's the big problem with them none most of the new cars today have alluminium up rights and suspension parts gets some put on and reduce that rotating mass
Correctly engineered shouldn't be an issue you usually just use more material to compensate with alluminium.
Hi
The Porche ones where not alloy they where magnesium.
Alloy wheel nuts are all well and good but like everything in life it depend on the quality. I have seen some really good ones used and i have seen
some that may as well have been made from chocolate. Depending on how often you are taking them on and off. On a road car not very often but on the
race cars where twice a meeting is more than likely the alloy nuts get thrown and replaced quite regularly.
cheers Matt
quote:
Originally posted by DRC INDY 7
porche 968 had them as standard what's the big problem with them none most of the new cars today have alluminium up rights and suspension parts gets some put on and reduce that rotating mass
Bling, well maybe. Do they make any discernable difference I could not tell you but my donor had 5 spoke sierra wheels with washer type nuts that did
not fit my minilights.
The ali wheel nuts cost the same as a visit to the breakers, the only bad thing so far is the anodising gets bruised when you take them off and put on
as far as I can see at the moment.
As long as your threads are clean and lightly oiled they should last a while.
Aluminium nut on a steel stud, out in all weathers, think of the corrosion.
Not MSA approved for motorsport either!
there will be some efect on rotating mass but since they are quite close to the centre, it is not that great - I'd be surprised if you would
notice an effect.
no idea from the safety aspect though.
I guess if you really really must have them, then fit one or two to teh rear and see how that goes. If all is well then replace all on the
rear and fit 1/2 to front and repeat until you have all alloy nuts.
[Edited on 12/2/09 by 02GF74]
I certainly wouldn't try to have them for SVA/IVA as I suspect they'd fail you on them unless you could provide them with manufacturer
documentation suggesting they are fit for purpose and/or e-marked.
I don't think they'd do anything for performance as 02GF74 says they're too close to the center of rotation to do much and the weight
saving is negligible compared to, for instance a brake disk - there would be more and better savings from having those skimmed to minimum thickness to
save weight (!) [not to mention fitting discs appropriate for a 500kg car rather than ones designed for a 1.5 tonne sports saloon.]
[Edited on 12/2/09 by iank]
ooh, i forgot i made this thread
nothing to do with weight saving lol, if i trying save me weight i'd take more trips to the toilet 
er, nah i just like blue anodised stuff, but may be thats for later, after its on the road like...
compomotive do them for various cars, cant see them selling cheap nasty ones.
no idea of the cost.