Hi all
my front m16 calipers are starting to get a bit sticky so is it worth overhauling or Changing for somthing like willwoods. Is there a big differance to the braking?
regards
Paul

[Edited on 8/6/09 by easisatman]

Willwoods will make your braking worse.

Sticking calipers are caused by the seals getting hard -- usually because they have been either contaminated with oil (eg WD40 or similar) or just through heat and age.

New set of seals will fix things.

[Edited on 8/6/09 by britishtrident]

sorry to jump onto the thread but may i ask why would willwoods make the braking worse? i have no knowledge of these calipers but thought that they were quite well regarded?
hope you don,t mind me asking.

cheers
andy

They have issues -- well known to cause very spongey pedal, partly because it is difficult to get all the air out them but mainly because they flex.

Willwood recommend fitting a bigger bore mastercylinder and a residual pressure valve --- which are ridiculous kludges if they have the same hydraulic area as the Sierra or Cortina calipers.

The big adavantage of alloy calipers is lightness --- reduced unprung weight.

The best way to decent brakes is to fit a mastercylinder designed to work without a servo --- ie one that has a smaller bore. For example from the non-servoed entry level models of Mk1 Fiesta or Mk1 Polo

ok thanks for the info,
cheers
andy

Just had the same problems with my M16 callipers even though I resealed them previously they lasted a year. This time around I am replacing the pistons for Stainless items so doing a full refurb ordered them yesterday, £16.00 for the seal and £55.00 for new pistons plus P&P. Standard pistons are £39.00 + P+P ebay items seller Big Red ltd

That's BiggRed I think

http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Bigg-Red__W0QQ_armrsZ1

The website is here
http://www.biggred.co.uk/

[Edited on 8/6/09 by iank]

Iam thinking the same way, but you spend that much money is it worth it or spend a little bit more and have somthing a little bit more?

I am then going to fit grooved discs @£39.00 from the bay of e so Just over £100 for new brakes and discs ??, Wildwood are going to be at least that plus their pads you could always fit green stuff or red stuff pads as well.

Got to ask yourself where you happy with the brakes prior to them starting to stick if so why replace them

quote:

---

Originally posted by britishtrident
The best way to decent brakes is to fit a mastercylinder designed to work without a servo --- ie one that has a smaller bore. For example from the non-servoed entry level models of Mk1 Fiesta or Mk1 Polo

---

yeh your right Austin man I was looking at the same stuff on fleabay myself on sunday. I managed to get one of the pistons out with an airline (how do you get the other one out?)and the chrome was pitted with a little rust. so yes stainless items seem a good idea
thanks for the advice
Paul

The way you have to look at the brakes on these cars is that the brakes already have more than enough heat dissipation.capacity, in fact one of the main problems is getting them up to working temperature.
Don't assume what will improve the brakes on a hot hatch or even a super bike will be a good move on a Locost

The real problem is because of the restricted room in the footwell the brake pedal ratio is less than half that of the Sierra and without a servo.

Unsprung weight of the standard setup is undesirable to say the least both Sierra and Cortina calipers are b****dy heavy.

Grooved and drilled disc won't improve the dry braking on these cars as the brakes aren't working so hard they produce clouds of gas and brake dust. The only thing grooved and/or drill discs will improve is the initial bite of the brake in wet weather --- eg first application of the brakes after a few miles on a wet motorway.