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I just KNEW this was going to be trouble
Mark Allanson - 13/6/09 at 04:13 PM

I started doing my capri axle wheel bearing today.

I removed the wheel, the drum, the 4 set screws which hold the retaining plate, attached the slide hammer...

.. and then spent 4 hours trying to pull the half shaft.

I ache all over, I can hardly move my right arm, my wrist is throbbing, and seriously need a fag (cigarette before anyone gets flippant) and I haven't smoked in 15 years.

Please, someone must have am idea how to pull this bearing out Rescued attachment 13062009002sml.jpg
Rescued attachment 13062009002sml.jpg


theconrodkid - 13/6/09 at 04:18 PM

smack it in,smack it out,drink tea,swear,have a ciggy and smack it again unfortunately,sounds like the outer cage is rusted in or cracked...been there and still got the scars to prove it


DavidM - 13/6/09 at 04:20 PM

If it is anything like the English axle, then remove the bolts from the bearing retainer plate and screw them back in from the other side against the back of the bearing retainer plates. Use increasing thickness packers until it is out.

You'll need to remove the brake shoes.

Thinking about it, how did you get the bearing retainer plate bolts out without removing the brake shoes?

David

[Edited on 13/6/09 by DavidM]

[Edited on 13/6/09 by DavidM]


big_wasa - 13/6/09 at 04:27 PM

I tried every thing, Then I got a slide hammer thats a bit bigger than yours and they came out dead easy.

Try to add weight to the slide.


Mark Allanson - 13/6/09 at 04:30 PM

quote:
Originally posted by DavidM
If it is anything like the English axle, then remove the bolts from the bearing retainer plate and screw them back in from the other side against the back of the bearing retainer plates. Use increasing thickness packers until it is out.

You'll need to remove the brake shoes.

David



[Edited on 13/6/09 by DavidM]



On the capri, the bearing retainer holes are M8 blind, and I don't think there are any packers although I wont know until I get the blessed bearing out


omega 24 v6 - 13/6/09 at 04:32 PM

Interesting one as I've just found an oil leak on my axle ( capri) opposite side from you. Where did you source you're bearing or can you tell me the code number??.

It should/usually comes out no problem but even with a slide hammer or you can't get it to budge?? You could try the heat round the axle tube trick ( If the bearings already fubared then it won't matter)


Mark Allanson - 13/6/09 at 04:35 PM

quote:
Originally posted by omega 24 v6
Interesting one as I've just found an oil leak on my axle ( capri) opposite side from you. Where did you source you're bearing or can you tell me the code number??.

It should/usually comes out no problem but even with a slide hammer or you can't get it to budge?? You could try the heat round the axle tube trick ( If the bearings already fubared then it won't matter)


I did think about heat, but I didn't want to ruin the paint finish, but I am now prepared to used dynamite!


David Jenkins - 13/6/09 at 04:36 PM

I wonder if someone's used an inappropriate sealer around the bearing...


rusty nuts - 13/6/09 at 04:50 PM

The slide hammer looks a bit "puny" to me . Mine has a much bigger weight. If all else fails it might be worth putting a bit of heat on the axle casing or soaking in penetrating oil overnight even if you have to remover the brake shoes and cylinder? One little tip , try WD 40 on the shaft of the slide hammer .


chris_smith - 13/6/09 at 06:21 PM

i had just the same problem , spent one full afternoon with the slide hammer for it to only move 5 mm ended up doing what DavidM^^^ above mentions turning each bolt quarter of a turn one after the othereventually a huge bang and it popped out, needless to say the opposite side took 10 minutes

chris


Canada EH! - 13/6/09 at 08:22 PM

Had the same problem with my Toyota Corolla GTS axle. If you have access to an oxy accetylene torch, heat the area of the bearing on the outside of the axle housing till it is very warm, NOT RED, then start bulling on your slide hammer. It will come out.


blakep82 - 13/6/09 at 08:47 PM

yeah, no tricks to it, just have to keep going at it. i was starting to think there was some kind of circlip in the diff, but no.


Dangle_kt - 13/6/09 at 08:52 PM

not linked, but nice garage. I;d love a proper workspace like that.


Mark Allanson - 14/6/09 at 04:15 PM

Got the little b'stard!!

Propane torches for 30 mins and it almost fell out (well 10 mins of pumelling!) After that it was only an hour and she was back on her wheels, I wouldn't like to do the job without a proper press though.

The new bearings are Quinton Hazell QWB151C, and the old ones REALLY did need doing, graunchy and binding. I am really surprised I couldn't hear them while driving, but that is the benefit of MOT's for you.

Look at the condition of the outer race though Rescued attachment 14062009007sml.jpg
Rescued attachment 14062009007sml.jpg


omega 24 v6 - 14/6/09 at 06:46 PM

Looks like it was well rusted in. Did you get a new retaining collar in the kit??


Mark Allanson - 14/6/09 at 08:19 PM

The little ring collar on the inboard side - yes, you need to drill the old one off and press the new one on. I drilled it with an 1/8 drill and it just pinged and cracked, just slid off after that. The main bearing I had to grind off.


britishtrident - 15/6/09 at 03:22 PM

Experience taught me long ago slide hammers aren't that good for this job even the very heavy Churchill jobs that were specified as official Rootes dealer special tools.