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toe in - setting up
Chris Leonard - 1/4/04 at 11:00 AM

I going to set up my toe in and camber this weekend.

Any tips or ideas as to the best way to attack it with limited measuring gear: ruler, string, spirit level, protractor, roofing angle etc

cheers Chris


Hellfire - 1/4/04 at 11:40 AM

You may find this interesting:

HERE


timf - 1/4/04 at 11:49 AM

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=10213


Chris Leonard - 1/4/04 at 11:50 AM

Thanks - I'll print that off but I was more after practical ways of setting it up. I remember somewhere a posting about running a plumb line from the back wheels etc

Cheers Chris


Chris Leonard - 1/4/04 at 11:57 AM

I hit my last post just as timf was appearing - thats what I wanted

thanks


theconrodkid - 1/4/04 at 12:13 PM

i have a proper tracking gauge if anyone wants to hire it


bob - 1/4/04 at 06:46 PM

How much ?

Or should i have said how munch


Mark Allanson - 1/4/04 at 08:41 PM

For something non standard, you cannot beat an old fashioned grease plate.

No car has toe in or out when in motion, its just a static setting to compensate for the way the suspension aligns when you are driving.

The grease plate measures the deflection of the wheel at it is driven over it at about 7-10 mph. You just adjust the tracking to read zero on the measurements on the plate.

The only problem is that I havent seen one in years, Dunlop used to make the best, it had carry handle which if you hit it with a crossply, would ruin the tyre!


Liam - 1/4/04 at 11:40 PM

Toe:

Strap plank/steel tube to wheels horizontally. Project down to floor, measure, and do some trig.

Camber:

strap board/plank to wheel vertically and use big roofers square or whatever.

Worked well setting up a westy me and a mate had. For camber we pumped the tyres up to loads of psi so that there was no deformation at the contact patch to throw out the camber measurement. Bit of flat floor helps.

I've now gone all high-tech and I've drilled some holes in some 1" thick bits of ply which I can then fit to the hubs instead of wheels and take more accurate measurements. Ya know - a bit like what they do in F1

Liam


Peteff - 2/4/04 at 08:56 AM

I hear they've brought the process more up to date and now use MDF like the changing rooms team. Bolt some bars to both your front hubs facing forward and measure just in front of the chassis, then measure the distance further out at a set distance. If the second is less you have toe in obviously. I was never very good at maths so if anyone has a formula to convert this to a degree measurement it would be handy. Camber you can use a spirit level with an adjustable bubble, try saying that when you've had a few.