am i right in thinking i need to pull the hubb assembly apart to remove my discs???

cheers

barry

Hi Boggle, from memory you'll have to remove the hub from the upright as the disc is bolted on the back of it. Not too hard of a job but grab some new oil seals for the hubs.

Rich

Here's a pic with the disc removed, take off the hub and open the tab s unbolt bash with hammer etc..


Cortina Upright Completed

its a bugger cos the hubs have all been recently refurbished....i want to cross drill my discs, so im going to have to remove them.....

will i still need new sills???

[Edited on 10/3/10 by boggle]

I'm pretty certain you don't take the hub apart.

Its caliper off and undo the screws holding the disc to the hub.

quote:

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Originally posted by kendo
I'm pretty certain you don't take the hub apart.

Its caliper off and undo the screws holding the disc to the hub.

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If you need to ask you don't have the knowledge to put it back together in correct adjustment.

Also don't cross drill your discs it has little advantage and will make a real black horrible mess -- normal brake discs are made of spheroidal graphite cast iron which isn't easy to drill and produces a lot of horrible black carbon dust when drilled.

quote:

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Originally posted by britishtrident
If you need to ask you don't have the knowledge to put it back together in correct adjustment.

Also don't cross drill your discs it has little advantage and will make a real black horrible mess -- normal brake discs are made of spheroidal graphite cast iron which isn't easy to drill and produces a lot of horrible black carbon dust when drilled.

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ok...got the discs off...easy peasy...

but too easy thou.....

the hub nuts where finger tight...

does anyone know the tightening sequence????

many thanks

barry

quote:

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Originally posted by britishtrident
If you need to ask you don't have the knowledge to put it back together in correct adjustment.

Also don't cross drill your discs it has little advantage and will make a real black horrible mess -- normal brake discs are made of spheroidal graphite cast iron which isn't easy to drill and produces a lot of horrible black carbon dust when drilled.

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tighten to 27 lb f ft (3.7kg f m)with a torque wrench while turning the hub to make sure everything's central and free moving, then UNDO the nut by 90 degrees to give the correct end float according to haynes

thank you blake.......big kiss for you mwah

crikey ha ha ha

quote:

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Originally posted by boggle
[as for drilling discs.....

i find they do make a difference..especially if the car gets driven hard...and i have drilled loads.....never had a problem.....???

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I wouldnt bther drilling them. Its difficult to get the discs to working temp anyway on a seven type car.

quote:

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Originally posted by boggle


im not use to these old type things you see......the only time ive touched taper bearings is on my landrover....that needed tightening up then releasing then re tightening...

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quote:

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Originally posted by MikeRJ

quote:

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Originally posted by boggle
[as for drilling discs.....

i find they do make a difference..especially if the car gets driven hard...and i have drilled loads.....never had a problem.....???

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That you've noticed...

Even disk designed to be drilled can suffer from cracking, standard drilled disks will crack at some stage.

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quote:

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Originally posted by britishtrident

quote:

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Originally posted by boggle


im not use to these old type things you see......the only time ive touched taper bearings is on my landrover....that needed tightening up then releasing then re tightening...

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They need adjusted to a running clearance otherwise the wheel siezes solid after a couple of miles.

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Put the wheel on the fully assembled hub except for the dust cap, spin the wheel while gently tightening the retaining nut until it nips up. Rock the wheel and very slowly undo the retaining nut while slowly revolving the wheel. As soon as you can JUST perceive play, take the wheel off and lock the nut.

Drive for a couple of miles and check the perceived play is still just perceived!

On a Tina, they wouldn't seize, they would brake up and give alternating 15° and -15° of camber! Scarey

thanks everyone for your input and help...

i will drill the discs and see how i go...

Cross drilled discs

[Edited on 10/3/10 by MikeRJ]

Hi

This comment. "i know a well respected motorsport supplyer buys standard dics and have them drilled..... " is a bit worrying.
Clearly not that well respected then if they are doing this procedure. Drilled discs do not give enough of a gap to prevent gas build up. The better way is to go for Grooved discs. These have the groves terminating to the outer diameter so the gasses vent to fresh air hence no build up of gasses. They also wipe the pad surface clean upon passing it. But even these are prone to failure in some applications where the grooves have been machined in with square cornered grooves. The better ones are ground grooves with a radius in the bottom.

But quite frankly if you are reaching the point of having a problem where such items are needed on a seven type car. You are using the brakes too much.

Cheers Matt

[Edited on 11/3/10 by procomp]

quote:

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Originally posted by procomp
But quite frankly if you are reaching the point of having a problem where such items are needed on a seven type car. You are using the brakes too much.

Cheers Matt

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i went to buy some drilled discs for my old escort cab from a motorsport supplyer in kent....

they had none in stock and i asked when they would get some more....i was told that the discs where over at the local engineers being drilled....when i told the bloke i was a toolmaker he suggested that i drilled some blank discs myself...

i did this and had no problems what so ever with them... i even went on to do my mates 300hp rs turbo, grooved and drilled, several high powered subarus, and a few other cars.....none ever cracked or broke and everyone said they were finding less fade under hard breaking......

i drive 90% twisty back roads so i use the brakes alot, and at times i drive hard....

if it is wrong to drill a solid disk then why do people sell them? and why do manufacturers fit them????

im confused as feck now as to why it would be a bad thing to spend 30 mins of my time doing it???

im not dissagreing with people just trying to understand???

thanks to all for your comments...

barry

Drilling does not in any way improve the cooling of a disk. It might help if you have a serious pad out-gassing problem, but the chances of this being a problem on a seven with modern brake pads is negligible.

You simply won't find drilled disks used in any serious motorsport these days. Drilled disc were used some years ago when it could help with the pad materials of the day, but the reduction in disk life (and potential for failure) was quickly discovered.

In answer to your question, they are sold because people think they look pretty, it's nothing to do with performance.

ok..thanks guys...

going to go with your advise and leave them standard...

thanks again for the sensible offerings....

barry