As above, is it worth doing? How do you think the cost comparison will work out?
personally would use copper as most of it is not seen , use the saved money for somthing that is on show
I see you built a locost m3, any pics or details?
Use a bit of both, Copper for what you dont see (non flex stuff) and braided for what you do (flexi bits) 
Best of both worlds then!
EDIT: Mine are actually Kunnifer as well
[Edited on 23/3/10 by eddie99]
Copper is more durable..
you can get grit inside the braided which will rub away the tube inside...
Copper is easier to inspect and spot corrosion
Cant see any point in using braided for anything that doesnt need to flex.
- At best it will be as good and 10times the price.
Copper for most of it, braided for the flexi bits!
Daniel
Kunnifer is even better. Copper tends to kink when you bend it around tighter corners , whereas the kunifer seems to hold out very well.
A bit more pricey but is a lot less likely to become brittle with oxidation, unlike the copper ones...
Yeah, mine are actually Kunnifer, just not braided!
Top end motorsport (including F1) use braided exclusively, but they are a special case as usual.
The advantage is you have far fewer connectors, which in the very short term are the most likely point of failure, they don't mind replacing it
frequently.
The disadvantages are it is less durable over the longer term.
Kunifer for me as well.
Goodridge stainless flexi for the jumps to the wheel cylinders.
Flexi all round is just a waste of money and not necessary.
Furthermore, there is no flex in the copper when under pressure which helps give a better pedal.
quote:
Originally posted by wilkingj
Furthermore, there is no flex in the copper when under pressure which helps give a better pedal.
If you minimise the number of joints with braided and get the stuff from Rally design (previous £3.50 per meter) then the cost of braided throughout
is no more than copper plus braided.
The braided is way cheaper if you have to purchase an expensive flaring tool for the copper/kunifer
But, if you do with braided then it is difficult to organise, as you need to control the direction of the braided going towards the front hubs (to
avoid fouling). Also you need to be careful with getting fixings that have the right swivels (i.e. banjos or swivelling connectors at both ends)
which can be a problem at T-pieces, as otherwise nipping things up can be a massive/impossible exercise!
I have braided throughout, which is enclosed in transparent shrink wrap (a la Goodridge). I have additional joints at the front flexis, and Banjo
connectors to the master cylinders, and to the rear sierra callipers.
If I did it again I would borrow a tool, and go with kunifer and braided for the flexis.
Just opinions though,
Matt