There are 3 types of 7" sierra diff, lets call them Type A, B and C

Type A being push in shafts, open diff, drum brakes

Type B being bolt on shafts, open diff, disc brakes

Type C being bolt on shafts, LSD, disc brakes

Am I right in thinking that:

Removing the bolt on stubs from the type B diff, these will fit into a type A and convert it to bolt on shafts?

That the stubs on the type C are different to those on the Type B and therefore non interchangable?

Can you see where this is going?

The ultimate aim is a Tran-X LSD which are for push in shafts (Type A) but I need bolt on shafts. So can I use a type B diff as the basis to build a bolt on Tran-x diff up?

My thinking David is the open diffs have equal length stubs whereas the LSD ones have a long and a short one. Back covers are different as well as the crown wheel is over to one side a bit compared with an open diff.

I also reckon the parts can be swapped between open diffs quite readily.

Hope that helps,
Steve

I am not sure about Tran-X, but I have heard that Quaiffe do ATBs for either push-in or bolt-on.

HTH

Ian

p.s. it will only confuse things, but early euro xr4x4 had bolt on with drums - just like I have now

So I need an open 3.92 diff with push in shafts (Type B) to build a 3.92 tran-x....

then there is also a diff with smaller shafts pus in type so beware. Bothe of my diff have unequal length shafts and neither are LSD

quote:

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Originally posted by austin man
then there is also a diff with smaller shafts pus in type so beware. Bothe of my diff have unequal length shafts and neither are LSD

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if you start looking for one in the scrapyards then 2.0 pinto granada's are a good bet
most of the later ones have 7.5" diffs and the bigger engines have 3.62's
but nearly all the 85-94 granada's had ABS - so have rear discs and bolt-on shafts


quaife sell ATB's with flanges already on them for a price - but the non-LSD bolt-on flanges can esily be made to fit the push-in style ATB (the need modified as you can't get in to put the circlips on)

There is a thread on the Sierra owners club site about making shafts with push in at one end and bolt on the other.
You need the thicker diesel push in shafts and as you know these are not easy to find.

not sure about the longevity of a hybrid shaft.

One of the guys of the westfield boardroom made a set up, and had an early failure.

I think he is trying again, but it casts doubt on that method.

according to an old PPC i read yesterday you can convert push in diffs to bolt on by just swapping the drive shafts (and using the circlip).

Not sure if its true or it helps.

(nb this doesn't say make a hybrid shaft, but replace the whole shaft).

Ok, the plan is to rebuild a 3.92 diff with a tran-x lsd and push in stubs from an open bolt on diff.

We'll see how it goes I guess!

You're right - you can remove the flanges from an open bolt-on diff and you have yourself a push-in. However you can't just add the flanges to an aftermarket LSD to make it a bolt-on, as you have no way to fit the circlips that retain the bolt-on flanges. Maybe you could get round that with those spring clip things that I've seen on the driveshafts of fwd tintops instead of traditional circlips, but that all depends on whether or not there would be any groove/edge inside those LSDs for these clips to open out into.

I expect the reason for premaure failure of those hybrid shafts (one bolt-on joint and one push-in joint) could be that the sprung push-in joint pushes the unsprung bolt-on joint to the limit of its float where it is weaker and fails.

Liam

Tran-x reckon their diffs are ok with both bolt on a push in shafts.... we will see i guess!

as far as I know the guys fitting the std. bolt-on flanges to ATB's were modifing the stubs to fit snap rings instead of circlips

(do the push-in shafts use snap rings ? if they do I assume it was these ones they used)

Snap rings?

Any more info on the modifications at all?

Thanks

^^sorry, not from me - thats just what I was told by Stuart for classic conversions a few years back
he bought one of my spare bolt-on 3.92 open diffs to rebuild it with an ATB for someone

how are the push-in shafts held in place ? (all my diffs have been bolt-on)



[Edited on 16/6/2010 by mcerd1]

Ah - snap rings! That's what I meant by 'those spring clip things'. Just a round wire ring with a small section missing which allows it to be squeezed together as you shove a driveshaft in, then it springs out when it's got a groove or whatever to spring out into.

Push-in shafts dont have anything at all - they are held in place by the spring-loadedness (new word) of the tripode joints.

I am in 2 minds what to do. Whether to just put the Tranx diff into a normal open diff with push in shafts and retain my drum braked back end. Or modify some push in stubs and fit the rear discs.

Choices choices!

Just got off the phone from Tran-x and they are indeed suitable for both push in and bolt on shafts.

To fit bolt on shafts you just need to modify the bolt on flanges from the diff to fit a snap ring. They are sending me out an info sheet and a couple of snap rings FOC (what more could you ask?!) This is basically because you cannot get inside the diff to fit the normal clips which would retain the flanges.

Very helpful company to deal with

massive thread bump but did you ever get the information fron tranx on the non lsd lobro shaft mods?