The shafts are the bolt on type and fitted to Aries uprights, I've fitted new bearings in the bearing carriers and everthing seemed ok untill I tighted the nuts up, what have I missed or done wrong?
I've just tightened my drive shaft nuts up on my Sierra rear hubs and now the drive shafts will not rotate, why?
The shafts are the bolt on type and fitted to Aries uprights, I've fitted new bearings in the bearing carriers and everthing seemed ok untill I
tighted the nuts up, what have I missed or done wrong?
will they just not rotate or are they very stiff?
Might have some rubish in behind the bearing.. They are an exact fit and the fit determines the bearing pre-load, a bit of grit might be sufficient to
lock them up.. Or the wrong bearings?
Dan
or if it is a sierra LSD it will be very stiff to turn the drive shafts....
Are the driveshafts touched the backs of the uprights?
Hi,sometimes tapping the end of the shaft with a copper mallet will settle the bearings in the housings then they may rotate easier always done this
on g/boxs etc (old maintenance engineer trick),worth a try.
Ray
They tend to bind for the first 50 miles, as I tightened mine with new bearings you feel the backlash tighten as you torque up.
when only 10lbft they should be pretty free.
After 50 miles mine were fine... it just seems wrong but it is what most peeps seem to experience.
If jammed solid you have a different issue
Are they the ball bearing type or tapered roller bearings?
Thanks for all the replies.
To clarifier a few points;
I can just turn the shafts but using a long bar only and a lot pressure.
The bearings are they tappered.
I had the exact same thing when I first assembled my rear end. At first I wasn't sure if the stiffness was resistance from the LSD & gearbox,
so I unbolted the inner CVs and found both shafts still so stiff that I could only turn with a long bar - obviously not right.
For me the problem turned out to be that two of the metal & rubber bearing oil seals were not quite pushed far enough in to place. Once I'd
found a suitable drift, pressed in the seals properly and reassembled, both shafts turned freely with only light effort and no noticable binding.
If they are tapered roller bearings, dont dont torque them up mega tight like ball bearing types, you only need to tighten them up enough to seat the
bearings then back of quarter of a turn to provide sufficient end float.
[Edited on 18/7/10 by maximill666]
quote:
Originally posted by maximill666
If they are tapered roller bearings, dont dont torque them up mega tight like ball bearing types, you only need to nip them up enough to seat the bearings then back of quarter of a turn to provide sufficient end float.
ensure the bearing carriers are seated wright in i made a mistake like that in past and couldnt turn the wheels,
did you get the bearings pressed in or with hammer etc.
????