Hi!

This weekend, when I had a look at the car before adjusting toe-out (my original intention), I realized that the camber in one of the wheels is not good (can't remember the sign, but the wheel is slightly closer to the car where it touches the ground). Common sense tells me I should adjust the top wishbone, but I turned the nut there and realized it's just a lock nut, so by loosening it you don't reduce the wishbone length which was my intention but just unlock the nut and leave it loose!

Then I tried to shorten the other rod to reduce toe-out. Unlocked the nut, then screwed the rod into the wheel bit (excuse vocabulary, hope it's understandable) with a pair of big pliers, then locked the nut again. Then I thought I may be missing something and maybe that's all wrong and by doing that I unscrewed the rod from the car or something? Oh I'm afraid I may have done something bad!

Many thanks for any advice.

he he, its all a worry!

to do camber, you jack it up, remove the top swivel joint from the hub, undo the lock nut (thats what you undid before) and then screw the upper swivel into the top wishbone, then just do everything in reverse to put it back together. This is assuming your car is using a transit track rod end as the upper swivel, so similar.

as for the toe in or out, remove the steering arm from the hub (ideally without a hammer!), then indo the lock nut, screw the end bit in or out. But you must make sure, if you screw it out, that there is still plenty left inside the thread. Maybe mark its original position with the locknut and remove it altogether to see what is left to play with.

Hope that makes sense!

ps, if you are reducing toe out, and you are sure you have the right thread (ie not left handed!) then you shouldnt be in danger of it falling out. Its only when increasing toe out that you must be careful.

Plus the usual disclaimer, im incompetant, hell i cant even spell that damn word. Dont kill yourself on my account!

[Edited on 21/6/04 by JoelP]

Thanks a lot man, much appreciated, it was more difficult than I thought indeed.. which is kind of strange, considering how quickly these are normally adjusted in my "normal" car when I take it to the quick fit for adjustment. Anyway, I'll now try as described, thanks!

They only adjust the toe on your euro box, it doesn't usually have camber adjustment. You want your wheels in at the top (negative camber) or upright and usually toe out is only used to get through SVA. A couple of degrees of toe in makes the car feel a lot more predictable on the road.

It's easier to adjust the alignment on many production cars because it's set by eccentric bolts where the mounting brackets are, ie they just loosen them, turn them a bit, tighten them back up.

It seems like just about everybody does their own alignment, but how about going to a shop? They've got these spiffy racks and lasers, way better than my bumpy garage floor and angle iron, IMO.

Anyone have any experience having someone else do it?

Hi!

> They only adjust the toe on your euro box, it doesn't usually have camber adjustment

? I think they adjust both toe and camber, I seem to remember both figures in written form for my Golf..

> It's easier to adjust the alignment on many production cars because it's set by eccentric bolts where the mounting brackets are, ie they just loosen them, turn them a bit, tighten them back up.

So maybe if I turn up with my "strange" car they will tell me to f off

> It seems like just about everybody does their own alignment, but how about going to a shop? They've got these spiffy racks and lasers, way better than my bumpy garage floor and angle iron, IMO.

It makes a lot of sense to me, here it is very very cheap to have it done, much cheaper that having uneven tyre wear due to wrong camber for instance. The problem is I don't think they will go into dismantling half of the steering setup to align everything for you, as production cars are different Still you can probably DIY and then have the angles measured by their lasers just in case?

Cheers,

Alex

[Edited on 22/6/04 by Alez]

its no different from turning up in a sierra to get the tracking lined up! id do the camber at home, with a block and a plump line to measure it. i did mine by eye. then take it to a shop to be tracked. its a 5 minute job! if the odle bastards wont do it then at least you know they are useless. then you'll just have to do it yourself!

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Originally posted by Alez
So maybe if I turn up with my "strange" car they will tell me to f off

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interesting system of incentives. In UK we usually have to give money ;^)
Bob C

quote:

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Originally posted by Bob C
interesting system of incentives. In UK we usually have to give money ;^)

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It's a sad reflection of the times here in UK. Personal experience tends to suggest you are far better off doing a bit of reading up on the subject and then doing your own alignment.
The term Kwik Fit Kids rings familiar! I have reservations letting them loose on my road car - no way on my pride & joys!

you can get a good castor/camber tool from:
Rescued attachment sustool.jpg

Thanks very much for your encouragement and suggestions. Went to a quick fit where a bike enthusiast I know works, told him about it, he told me Sierras don't have camber adjustment so I plan to do as JoelP advises, take the car to this guy for toe adjustment after I've done the camber by eye myself. He will measure the camber obtained anyway so I can fine tune later if need be. Also told me you can adjust toe in/out without dismantling anything, just as I did, since the end of the rod that goes to the car (non threaded one) has a ball end and thus can turn freely for adjustment. Will be going for it next weekend!

Many thanks again.

quote:

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Originally posted by Alez
Also told me you can adjust toe in/out without dismantling anything, just as I did, since the end of the rod that goes to the car (non threaded one) has a ball end and thus can turn freely for adjustment.

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Guys,

Thanks to your contributions I've now adjusted both camber and toe-out by eye. I shall now take the car to the quick fit for measurements, also take the car for a proper (read fast) test drive.

Adjusting toe-out was absolutely straightforward as discussed with JoelP. To adjust camber, I had to dismantle not only the top wishbone but also the spring-damper since in my car this is needed in order to remove the top wishbone bolts. All looking good!