i know this isn't the best idea, they say its best to have 2 people doing, which i'd probably agree with, but i'm going to have to do this myself i think.
i know you can get the things which suck the fluid through, how much are they? do they really work?

i've got 2 master cylinders and balance bar set up. the back brakes have 1 pipe to the back, then it splits at the axle, and goes to the wheels
fronts are 2 seperate pipes from the MC to the wheels.

is there any 1 way valve type systems? a kit with 2 valves, and some tubing for the bleed screw for example? that would be pretty easy i guess.

never had to bleed brakes before, and for some reason, its a bit of a mystery to me how it works! lol

and where can i buy new bleed screws? what size ones do i need for sierra calipers? will a motor factor have them?

[Edited on 26/1/11 by blakep82]

quote:

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Originally posted by blakep82
i know this isn't the best idea, they say its best to have 2 people doing, which i'd probably agree with, but i'm going to have to do this myself i think.
i know you can get the things which suck the fluid through, how much are they? do they really work?

i've got 2 master cylinders and balance bar set up. the back brakes have 1 pipe to the back, then it splits at the axle, and goes to the wheels
fronts are 2 seperate pipes from the MC to the wheels.

is there any 1 way valve type systems? a kit with 2 valves, and some tubing for the bleed screw for example? that would be pretty easy i guess.

never had to bleed brakes before, and for some reason, its a bit of a mystery to me how it works! lol

and where can i buy new bleed screws? what size ones do i need for sierra calipers? will a motor factor have them?

[Edited on 26/1/11 by blakep82]

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ah cool, will that work properly on the back though? just wondering if the T in the hoses will trap air? or do you do both at the same time?

just this sort of thing?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_195481_langId_-1_categoryId_165695#dtab

[Edited on 26/1/11 by blakep82]

Tried a few things over the years.............

A pipe on the bleed nipple whis has the other end plugged but also has a small incision.
The pedal pressure opens the slit which closeswhen pressure released. Often air can be
sucked past the nipple threads .

Easy bleed, works great IF you can get the air tight seal on the master cylinder cap.

A long stick through an open door to press the pedal with.

A variation of the above, I found a small pneumatic ram which I rigged up tp push the pedal
for me from a tap on an air line Worked brill till I lent it out and never got it back

quote:

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Originally posted by blakep82
ah cool, will that work properly on the back though? just wondering if the T in the hoses will trap air? or do you do both at the same time?

just this sort of thing?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_195481_langId_-1_categoryId_165695#dtab

[Edited on 26/1/11 by blakep82]

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ah, so how does the easy bleed thing work? why does it need a air tight seal on the master cylinder? thought it just sucked (or pushed) fluid through one way or another?

Gravity works, just takes time as you release the bleed nipple and wait for the fluid to drip out.

You can also try drawing the fluid out rather than pushing, as you are always at the bleed nipple, you need something to create a vacumn for this, large syringe and a bit of rubber tube should do it, I would not recommend sucking

yeah, don't think gravity will be on my side with this one

think i might go with that valve richard was talking about. i don't doubt the whole lot will have to be redone at some point, so don't need perfect operation yet, just want to see them work

how much fluid am i likely to need? i guess a litre will go quite far since the hoses are so narrow (but long)

2 litres?

[Edited on 26/1/11 by blakep82]

Easy bleed works well.

It puts the whole system under constant pressure by pumping fluid into the top of the reservoir (hence the need for a good seal) which then allows you to just open each nippple for as long as it takes to clear the air.
The bonus over 2 man is that you dont have to 'lossen- press -tighten - release - loosen - press - tighten- release'.
It also uses a extra reservoir of fluid so you dont run out and start pushing air back in leading you back to square one. You just need a spare tyre with a decent amount of air in to pressurise the easybleed system

Even with an extra man available, id still use easybleed.

[Edited on 27/1/11 by loggyboy]

take the nipple out, grease the threads and refit.

clear plastic hose on the nipple looping up from the nipple, then into a jar of brake fluid with the end held below the fluid level.

open bleed nipple, sit in the driver's seat, press the pedal 5 times, check the hose for bubbles. if bubbles, repeat. when no more bubbles, lock up the nipple, check reservoir level, move on.

easibleeds are a double edged sword. when they work, they're grand. when they don't, you fill the fluid with tiny bubbles as it cavitates in the transfer pipe. then it's game over and start again for a full fluid flush

I've got one of these.

ONE MAN BRAKE AND CLUTCH BLEEDING KIT 'NV16' UNIVERSAL on eBay (end time 12-Feb-11 12:33:25 GMT)

Seems to work fine.

quote:

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Originally posted by blakep82
and where can i buy new bleed screws? what size ones do i need for sierra calipers?

---

EasiBleed is a great piece of kit, providing you assemble things carefully, and in the correct order, and take your time.

As stated above it keeps the MC topped up automatically, with a slight airlock, so when you remove the kit the MC isn't brimmed, the reserve bottle holds about 300ml of fluid IIRC, which is plenty to get fresh fluid to the back and air free.

You must remember to remove the pressure source before you do any topping up or removal, I got my Easibleed free from a neighbor who took the MC adapter off 1st, sprayed brake fluid all over his engine bay and scuttle, followed by a temper tantrum and throwing it away as pile of useless crap.

Eezibleed is a very good solution to this, provided you use it properly. Some people seem to have endless problems with it, I'm really not sure why as it's a very simple, easy to understand tool. It's powered from a tyre, you just need to make sure the tyre isn't inflated to silly pressures (typical locost tyre pressure should be fine).

I find the hoses with a slit in don't work so well unless your calipers have o-rings on the bleed nipples as it sucks air back in through the threads. Plenty of grease around the threads helps, but it's not perfect.

Gravity sometimes works for initial bleeding, but there generally isn't enough flow to carry out all the air unless there are absolutely no points in your system where air can get trapped (it'd be the only one I've ever seen!).

Easybleed is indeed a good bit of kit. Some PTFE tape round the thread of the plastic bottle bit before screwing on the cap can help prevent air leaks. But they're great.

easy bleed can work ok, but i have had issue in it not being able to cope with rear brakes, it just couldn't puck it through. I bought a mytivac vacume set up which can draw it through, i have even combined the two so i could pump litres through trying to get rid of an airlock!! I still think the 2 man method is the best though ;-) A trick to stop the bleed nipple leaking air through the threads (a problem with the vacume method) is to wrap the thread in plumbing ptfe tape

I have found that the Eezibleed is good as a one-man solution but can leave trapped air in the m/c, especially on new installations. Make sure you at least pump the m/c through a few times to make sure any air is pushed through.

The best solution IMO is to persuade SWMBO to do the pedal pumping while you nip round with a tube and jam jar - 5 minutes and you are done

You cannot bleed by gravity.

One way valves can cause problems because air can be drawn in on the pedal return stroke --- Teeves (ATE) master cylinders are particularly prone to this.
Same goes for any bleeder that bleeds by suction.

Positive prsesure bleeders like the Eezibleed are the best solution, however be aware even with an Eezibleed the pedal will have to be pumped a couple of times at some point to get any trapped air out the master cylinder --- if it makes it easier when working single handed you can use one way valves and an Eezibleed at the same time.


Tricks and Tips

When pumping the pedal the return stroke sholud be be very s-l-o-w to avoid drawing air in past the seals.

If you have trouble bleeding take top off the fluid resevoir then remove the pads from a caliper and pump the pistons partly out then push the pistons back, repeat for each wheel.

The problems of bleeding Sierra rear calipers on Locost IRS have been well covered.



Tintop trick --- if using an Eezibleed on a car with standard rubber covered hoses you can control the fluid flow by using a pipe "nip" clamp on the flex hose.

Don't put grease (except Girling Red rubber grease) anywhere near a brake system hydraulics even a tiny amount will either turn the seals hard or rot them.

thanks everyone

noo, not putting grease near the brakes, maybe dip the threads in brake fluid but thats it.

can i get nipples from motor factors locally? big red is an idea, but i'd have to wait a few days for them, and pay postage.

i'm going to try the one way valve method first i think. seems a simpler system than the eezibleed thing, though that does look really good.

Most factors sell the "pearly wot not" blister packs - they do bleed nipples, just take an old one to match up.

oh, and what brake fluid do i want? i guess DOT4 will be fine?

quote:

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Originally posted by pajsh
I've got one of these.

ONE MAN BRAKE AND CLUTCH BLEEDING KIT 'NV16' UNIVERSAL on eBay (end time 12-Feb-11 12:33:25 GMT)

Seems to work fine.

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by blakep82
oh, and what brake fluid do i want? i guess DOT4 will be fine?

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ah, i just went out and got dot 4, thought about 5.1, but if its compatible, i can always swap later i guess? as long as i flush it out? can't see i'll need any better than 4 anyway

[Edited on 27/1/11 by blakep82]

DOT 5.1 is a lot more hydroscopic than DOT 4, because of this after a year in the UK climate the boiling point of DOT 5.1 is the same as as year old DOT 4 after 2 years it is lower than 2 year old DOT4

Interesting ..... but surely the hygroscopic properties are academic in a sealed system.

If the DOT5.1 boiling point is 270degC compared with DOT4 at 230degC then assuming the seals are good, I would be very surprised if enough atmospheric water could be absorbed through the breather hole in the m/c cap to lower the boiling point by 40 degrees.

Still DOT5.1 for me every time - I tend to flush my brakes through every couple of years anyway

Ive always been told a good quality dot4 is better or as good as 5.1

quote:

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Originally posted by loggyboy
Ive always been told a good quality dot4 is better or as good as 5.1

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