This has been bothering me for some time. As per the "book" I have two new QH Transit trackrod ends as top swivels, one has a castle nut/split pin and the other has a nylock (I don't know why). Neither seem to have enough thread length to be effectively locked. Has anyone else seen this? Is there an easy fix?

I think I had to assemble mine without a washer and it just about made it onto the nyloc part.

I had the same problem Baldrick both bought from the same supplier one had loads of thread thru the joint the other bugger all,looking at the tapers they were different.
In the end just bought a new pair from lolocost they were only about 6 squid the pair and are bob on,you can get your top lock nuts at the same time.
Cheers,
Bob

Baldrick,

Are you sure you've got the right part? The book says track rod ends (IIRC) but I believe it's actually drag link ends that you want.
Or have I got that the wrong way round?

They can be got from Lolocost for about £5 a pair.

HTH,

James


EDIT: Sorry Bob, didn't read your post carefully enough- you're right about the price- a whole 6pounds each!

[Edited on 14/7/04 by James]

Had the same problem with mine, seems to have been a repeating problem. I`ve bought a 1:8 taper reamer to do my bottom tapers for my bottom joints of choice & will enlarge my top ones too. I need about 3mm more to get the nyloc to lock.
Splitrivet, what brand were they that Lolocost supplied, others might like to know?
James, the Transit TREs & Draglink ends have the same taper, but different sized stem , the draglink is 18mm & the TREs are 20mm. Fraser in NZ use the TREs rather than the draglike, a bit beefier I `spose. For the record, my draglink ends are Sidem brand.

Hi,
I got my top joints from Lolocost with my wishbones and I still have the problem of not enough thread showing through. I think you need at least two full threads beyond the end of the locknut for SVA and mine ends up flush even with no washer.

I hope to get a high tensile low profile castle nut and secure it with a split pin instead, otherwise I'll need to deepen the taper on the hub.

Cheers,
Craig.

I machined 3mm off the upright at the lock nut face, this gives enough thread and there is more than ample thickness.The only thing to be careful of is to make sure that there is a small radius rather than a sharp corner at the intersection of the machined face and the original casting.
Paul.

Dont know the make Steve they just came in a couple of polybags,got the lower swivels as well as I had lost the nuts for the (new) originals and I couldnt find a supplier for the nuts,these too originally didnt have enough thread thru the joint but did with the lolo ones.
The good thing with the bottom swivels is that they also came with the 4 fixing nuts/bolts which the originals (from a motor factor) didnt,they were also muck cheap as well.
On this occassion Ive gotta say lolocost came up trumps,the 4 into 1 manifold kit was pretty good too and at 50 squids good value.
Cheers,
Bob

[Edited on 14/7/04 by splitrivet]

I'll try a pair from Lolocost and see if that works - I'll post the result

By definition you only need a minimum of one and a half complete threads, past the Nylock or castlation for the locking device to be effective. A plain washer is a load spreader and a split washer is a further locking device. And with a castle nut DON'T forget to fit the appropriate sized split pin.

Hope this helps.


Enjoy.

Demon Theives sell "aerospace locknuts" or "K-Nuts". They claim them to be small, lightweight and extremely strong. For use where space is at a premium. Only looks like you could use them once but maybe could offer the answer ?

available from M3 to M12 and 8/32" to 1/2"

maybe one of the aero engineers on here could shed more light ?

By definition and by method of operation all 'pinch' type (Nylock OR Crush) should ONLY be used once. The only "Lock Nuts" that can safely be used repeatedly are those 'Locked' by wire or split pin.


Enjoy.