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Sierra brake calipers bleed nipples and pipe threads
Autosri - 18/10/11 at 02:27 PM

Anyone know what thread the bleed nipples would be on an 1988 seirra for the front calipers and rear drums also what would the pipe fittings be feeding the calipers and drums

I have a fault on the brakes there is a big dead area at the start of the pedal so wanted to disconnect all the calipers and drums and cap off the ends to see if the pedle feel improves so I can find the fault but there is no way in he'll the bleed nipples would move To rebleed

Thanks

jossey - 18/10/11 at 02:41 PM

I used a UNF pipe end for 3/16 pipe

Dick Axtell - 18/10/11 at 03:22 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Autosri
Anyone know what thread the bleed nipples would be on an 1988 seirra for the front calipers and rear drums also what would the pipe fittings be feeding the calipers and drums


Standard Euro thread - M10 x 1, for the caliper and rear drum inlet connections. Bleed nipple should be the same on Girling/Lucas calipers. Could be smaller size bleed screw on e.g. Teves (Ate) calipers.

adithorp - 18/10/11 at 03:39 PM

All the Sierra brake pipes and fittings are M10x1 on all years as far as I know.
I can't see how you intend to bleed the system unless you can undo the bleed nipples sooner or later though. It can be achieved, but it isn't easy.

Jossey, if you used UNF pipe nuts? Are you sure they were right? UNF male can be put into an M10x1 female but they're a poor/sloppy fit. M10 male into UNF female takes brute force.

Autosri - 18/10/11 at 05:42 PM

Thanks guys will get some bits ordered then

I will be able to force the bleed nipples out with some mole grips but they won't be any good after so wanted new ones to replace

britishtrident - 18/10/11 at 06:04 PM

Trade secret to get 99.9% of trapped air out of front calipers with seized bleed nipples,remove the top of the fluid resevoir on one caliper remove both of the pads and insert a tyre lever between piston and disc Then get an assistant to very gently pump the pedal a little to force the piston out to about 75% of its maximum travel then use the tyre lever to push the piston back, repeat and then replace the pads and pump to bring the padspedal into full contact with the disc. Repeat for the other side.

[Edited on 18/10/11 by britishtrident]

Autosri - 18/10/11 at 06:25 PM

That's quite a good idea lol still think il get some new bleed screws as odds are il be doing the job on my own

britishtrident - 18/10/11 at 06:48 PM

To do it on your own use a Gunson EezziBleed also if yo have conventional tintop style hoses use a hose nip to control fluid flow .

If undoing brake pipes to reduce fluid loss and bleeding top the reservoir up to the very brim. Then stretch some cling film over the open top excluding any air and secure with a couple of elastic bands to make an air tight. It is amazing how effective this at retaining fluid and preventing air entering the system,

britishtrident - 18/10/11 at 06:50 PM

Also get a proper 11mm brake pipe spanner.

Autosri - 18/10/11 at 10:55 PM

yeah got a couple of them got a 10-11 and 13-14 had to buy them when i did my brake pipes on my bmw