For those of you with a live axle....what is the clearance between the bottom of your axle and the chassis? As I set mine up I am looking at about 1" and that just seems a bit close.

Thanx,

David

Jack the car up and see if the axle hits the chassis.... If not jobs a goodun. Though it does seem a little close. But mines not far off that.

Only about 1/2". The axle doesn't go downwards when on the road as the shock is at full extension and when it goes the other way the distance increases.

At full extension ive got no more 1" clearance so the diff cant possibly hit the chassis. Cant tell you what size gap it would ride at as its on a trolley at the mo but i think the gaz shocks (if thats what youre using) only have about 3" travel altogether.

Set up the lower damper attachment brkts to give 16mm clearance between axle casing & chassis rail. This will be the "full rebound" condition (i.e. max drop), so there should be no major problems.

(He said confidently!!!)

Hmm, I've got about this the other way. It's my understanding that using the shocks as the droop stop for the axle was to be avoided.

I set up the brackets for my shocks by resting the axle on the chassis and hangin the shocks from the top mounts. I've got 3" shock travel so this gives me 1" clearance from the bottom of the axle to my chassis at ride height, leaving 2" bump travel (usually 2/3 bump, 1/3 droop movement is recommended).

I intend to glue thin rubber strips to the chassis to cushion the axle/chassis contact in droop and make sure the axle doesn't ever hang from the shocks.

Thanks guys, sound like unladen I want the axle to rest on the chassis, laden should be about 1" +/- above the chassis....back to welding..

David

quote:

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Originally posted by MikeP
I intend to glue thin rubber strips to the chassis to cushion the axle/chassis contact in droop and make sure the axle doesn't ever hang from the shocks.

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I got some nice shaped 'bumpstops' from a local boatyard, they are designed for attaching to trailers to protect the bow of the boat as you load it. only £2.25 each - worth considering

I got the brackets built and welded on to the axle, hung from the shocks an hooked up the panhard bar an lo and behold, the axle (MGB) tubes increase in diameter as the get to the diff. So the axle tube hits the diagonal brace for the panhard and the outer ends are about 3/4" off the frame tubes....sounds like it is just about right. Once loaded it should be about 2" off the outer chassis tubes (when the trailing arms are level)

I will try to get a picture up tomorrow.

David.

Hi Mike - I'm using Aldan Eagles, they had these instructions http://www.aldaneagle.com/installation.htm that recommends not using the shocks to limit travel even in bump.

They've got bump stops, but I don't know about droop - do coil overs usually have an internal rubber bumper?

If not I would think the axle bell would ring on the top mounts just as loud as on my bottom rails . I can replace the rail for a lot less than I can replace my shocks...

On the fronts there's not much we can do anyway. I have seen axle straps on the rear of some production cars to limit travel.

It may not be a huge problem either way - the axle and chassis are pretty much unloaded in droop, perhaps more or less depending on preload (I've got virtually none).

Thanks Mark, I'll check out a marine shop for bumpers.