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moving biting point on clutch
beaver34 - 10/2/13 at 11:49 AM

i have a hydro conversion in my type 9, i run a ap single plate race clutch and it horrid, my biting point for the clutch is right at the end of the pedal and its really hard so set of without either £40 worth of tyes left of the road or stalling it!

can it be moved or adjusted at all if so how?

thanks

loggyboy - 10/2/13 at 11:53 AM

Is there not a adjustment on the master cylinder connection to the pedal?

Dangle_kt - 10/2/13 at 11:55 AM

Could you relocate the pivot on the clutch pedal? It will give you move movement with your foot and less movement at the MC end (I assume its a MC with it being hydro?)

Thats what mine had done, and I never stalled it once (and it was a BEC) - but it was cable, so I'm not sure if its possible for your set up.

blakep82 - 10/2/13 at 12:11 PM

Spacer between the slave cylinder and where it bolts up to the gear box will do it I think, ie move it closer to the clutch cover, means you dont need to pish the pedal as far

adithorp - 10/2/13 at 12:18 PM

If you mean by" that the clutch biting point is right at the bottom of the pedal stroke, try a larger diameter master cylinder.
If you mean the bite point is right at the top and very sharp then try a smaller diameter master.

Change of ratio on the pedal will work but only if the current master cylinder isn't going through it's full stroke.

beaver34 - 10/2/13 at 01:54 PM

its as soon as you touch the pedal it engages the clutch,

i thought about the spacer but the cylinder takes up the slack in the system so didnt think it would make a difference?

MikeRJ - 10/2/13 at 03:50 PM

quote:
Originally posted by beaver34
its as soon as you touch the pedal it engages the clutch,


Do you mean disengages the clutch, i.e. you only have to press the clutch pedal down a very short distance and you have no drive at all? If so then either the MC diameter is too large, slave diameter too small or the pedal ratio needs to be changed.

beaver34 - 10/2/13 at 04:07 PM

Sorry yes your right,

Will check m/s size

adithorp - 10/2/13 at 04:47 PM

In that case a smaller diameter master of the same fitting/design would be the simplest

Changing the pedal ratio would also involve moving the position of the master towards the pivot most likely. Not as easy a fix as just a new master cyl'.

If you're already on a 6.25" cylinder then you're best looking at m/bike rear brake master cylinders (12mm dia' is common). They'd need a modified mounting though.

beaver34 - 10/2/13 at 06:52 PM

quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
In that case a smaller diameter master of the same fitting/design would be the simplest

Changing the pedal ratio would also involve moving the position of the master towards the pivot most likely. Not as easy a fix as just a new master cyl'.

If you're already on a 6.25" cylinder then you're best looking at m/bike rear brake master cylinders (12mm dia' is common). They'd need a modified mounting though.


Ok,

Are they the same thread inlet and outlet do you know?

I've have a look on eBay see what there is

Mikef - 10/2/13 at 07:19 PM

Might be missing the point here. but if you have fitted a full race clutch is the distance from the release bearing still the same. I have fitted an AP clutch and the distance was far greater than std. I had to use an extended release bearing carrier and a radiused release bearing. even then a bit on the limit.

MF

beaver34 - 10/2/13 at 07:57 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Mikef
Might be missing the point here. but if you have fitted a full race clutch is the distance from the release bearing still the same. I have fitted an AP clutch and the distance was far greater than std. I had to use an extended release bearing carrier and a radiused release bearing. even then a bit on the limit.

MF


Sorry should have been clearer

I also had to extend the carrier to make sure it functioned like you, as before it just popped the the bearing off