
I've got Land Rover Discovery rear calipers on the front of my Westfield (Westfield started using them when new Ford M16 calipers became hard to
come by)
The car came with Yellowstuff pads in when I bought it, however, I have never been too happy with the stopping power of the car. The rears will lock
up under heavy braking but the fronts wont (even with the brake bias set full on front).
Question - As the calipers are for a 2 ton Land Rover would the Yellowstuff pad's compound be any different to a compound for pad suitable for a
550kg kit car? If so, that would explain why they're not stopping so well.
I'm pretty sure EBC dont do a separate pads to suit the Land Rover caliper for lightweight sportscars!
You might do better with some good quality standard road pads that heat up quicker instead of being formulated to last on a race track.
Funny you should say that because I put a set of standard Mintex pads in today.
Will have to wait 4 or 5 months before the weather gets good enough to test them out though!
[Edited on 18/3/13 by lordbenny]
Discovery 1 rear callipers are a much smaller bore 1.625" when compared to Cortina front units which are 2.125" bore.
If you want more powerful front brakes the easy way is to fit Cortina callipers.
If you have twin master cylinders and a balance bar fitting a smaller bore master cylinder in the front circuit is an alternative approach.
It was really the pad compound I was questioning. Im sure the caliper is adequate otherwise Westfield wouldn't have fitted to their factory cars.
I had yellowstuff on my Libra and thought they were horrible!. Worse than the OE pads it had originally. EBC pads seem to vary a lot. I had
greenstuff years ago that were great, changed them and they were terrible.
Mintex were a massive improvement in terms of feel and stopping power.
quote:
Originally posted by lordbenny
It was really the pad compound I was questioning. Im sure the caliper is adequate otherwise Westfield wouldn't have fitted to their factory cars.
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
Are you also using the same master cylinder setup that Westfield are using? If the brake balance is so bad that you need to adjust pad materials to make it work, then it sounds like there is a design problem or fault in the system.
Brake Pads 101
"Standard" replacement brake pads vary enormously in fade resistance it pays to buy a top quality brand ie Ferrodo or Mintex as
these give more consistent friction across the band of working temperatures likely to be found in road use.
Yellow stuff pads are the exact opposite they won't start working until the brakes are quite hot.
If the front brakes cannot be made to lock but the rears do from slow speed on a good clean dry road surface there is a major component mismatch
in the design of the system. ie in this case smaller hydraulic area callipers have been substituted for larger ones because the original
callipers are in short supply.
Rear brakes locking but the fronts won't is a sure way to end up in a ditch.
Because pad friction coefficient varies with temperature changing brake pad material at one end is not solution to brake bias problems.
[Edited on 18/3/13 by britishtrident]
I've got Yellowstuff in Sierra calipers and they work better from cold than OEM.
When I spoke to EBC they reckon the friction co-efficient is higher than OEM and having used them quite a bit I think they are right. When I swapped
over pedal pressure needed was noticeably less.
Stu
quote:
Originally posted by whitestu
I've got Yellowstuff in Sierra calipers and they work better from cold than OEM.
When I spoke to EBC they reckon the friction co-efficient is higher than OEM and having used them quite a bit I think they are right. When I swapped over pedal pressure needed was noticeably less.
Stu
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
If the front brakes cannot be made to lock but the rears do from slow speed on a good clean dry road surface there is a major component mismatch in the design of the system.
quote:
Originally posted by whitestu
I've got Yellowstuff in Sierra calipers and they work better from cold than OEM.
When I spoke to EBC they reckon the friction co-efficient is higher than OEM and having used them quite a bit I think they are right. When I swapped
over pedal pressure needed was noticeably less.
Stu
That contradicts the info on their web site which states they only get into working range from 100c
The ones I have definitely work fine from completely cold. I'm very happy with them, particularly as they are only £30 ish per set.
Stuk
quote:
Originally posted by lordbenny
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
If the front brakes cannot be made to lock but the rears do from slow speed on a good clean dry road surface there is a major component mismatch in the design of the system.
But a LOT of track day cars have brake bias controllers and I know that Westies have a habit of locking the rears because there is a lot less weight over the back wheels.