If anyone can check on a lobro jointed rear end it should have around 16-20mm float in the shaft if the drawing is right and will be a big help as the shafts are not cheap if I get the size wrong .
I will be having some shafts made to replace my sleeved items which are at risk of snapping now I'm winding the boost up . The only reference to
shaft length I can find is to make the shaft 16mm shorter than the distance between the deepest part of the cup .
If anyone can check on a lobro jointed rear end it should have around 16-20mm float in the shaft if the drawing is right and will be a big help as the
shafts are not cheap if I get the size wrong .
I had this problem, i moved the cir clip groves back by using a grinder with a 1.5mm silting disc in a lathe. then cutting the excess of. Job done now i have standard shafts shortened. Hope this helps.
http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/Sierra_Rear_Drive_Shafts
Any thing on here that will help you ?
Jacko
Why can't you use your welded shafts as a guide.
Cheers
David
I messed up with the length as the Inner cup is the Saab stub with a spigot welded on but I didn't make the spigot thick enough to match the
depth of the outer cup
It's not been an issue until I got to 1.4 bar which is around 400lb/ft
if they are sierra based and you need shorter shafts, the Scimitar SS1 has some as std.
they have push-in ends normally, but you can remove the shafts and fit bolt on CVs either end.
I know you are going to ask me the lengths are, and I cant remember, but if you give me a day or so, I will dig a pair out and check for ya! 
quote:
Originally posted by CNHSS1
if they are sierra based and you need shorter shafts, the Scimitar SS1 has some as std.
they have push-in ends normally, but you can remove the shafts and fit bolt on CVs either end.
I know you are going to ask me the lengths are, and I cant remember, but if you give me a day or so, I will dig a pair out and check for ya!
Mine are only a foot long so just need to see how much end float they have using a standard shaft length , gb engineering have confirmed that the 16mm
float is right so my current shafts are way too short .
Had a search on here as I was looking at going up to 108mm joints but as I don't have a lot of travel or ankhs change to deal with the 100mm
joints should do fine .
if you need joints with lots of angular movement coz you've only got dinky driveshafts, speak to the Autograss boys, they do lots of bolt on CVs
with silly-large angles of deflection.
Try Randall Motorsport or Berrsiford
quote:
Originally posted by CNHSS1
if they are sierra based and you need shorter shafts, the Scimitar SS1 has some as std.
they have push-in ends normally, but you can remove the shafts and fit bolt on CVs either end.
I know you are going to ask me the lengths are, and I cant remember, but if you give me a day or so, I will dig a pair out and check for ya!
Ride height to full bump is only 8 degrees so its worth trying the 100mm joints .
quote:
Originally posted by scimjim
[
I seem to remember that the GW Sabre ate 25 splined driveshafts for a pastime (probably with a smidge less than 400 lbft)?
What torque does your new Sabre put out?
My n/s shaft has 35mm float and o/s 20mm just need to pull the outer cups out and compare depths with my home made adaptors but i was getting enough
movement of the rear beam to push the gearbox cup into the box and wear the carrier
Ive stripped one driveshaft, L/H longer one
I reckon its 410mm between the outer circlip grooves.