On a three wheeler with two front wheels and one rear wheel, what if I could reduce body roll to zero. Would it be a good thing?
I mean if I made the front anti-roll totally rigid but still had full vertical suspension all round, would there be there any handling disadvantage?
Anything bad at all? Risk of tipping over without warning perhaps?
I think a lot of (tadpole) three wheelers are really stiff in roll at the front - I seem to remember the indycycle had an arrangement with a mono shock that allowed virtually no roll!
Just curious, but how would you totally eliminate roll while still maintaining useful suspension movement?
Al.
quote:
Originally posted by Wadders
Just curious, but how would you totally eliminate roll while still maintaining useful suspension movement?
Al.
quote:
Originally posted by Wadders
Just curious, but how would you totally eliminate roll while still maintaining useful suspension movement?
Al.
quote:
Originally posted by Dave Ashurst
On a three wheeler with two front wheels and one rear wheel, what if I could reduce body roll to zero. Would it be a good thing?
I mean if I made the front anti-roll totally rigid but still had full vertical suspension all round, would there be there any handling disadvantage?
Anything bad at all? Risk of tipping over without warning perhaps?
Hi Dave,
It's done today on some main stream cars - such as LandRover and Range Rover. It's called Active Roll Control.
It stops the body rolling during cornering and as such it's considered a comfort feature.
It can stop geometry change in the suspension when the body rolls and handling effects caused by that but it can't stop the weight transfer.
Handling doesn't change directly because of this system.
Active Roll Control is done with an Anti-Roll bar and a Hydraulic actuator controlled by an ECU with a hydraulic pump and some valves.
It also reduces the drivers opportunities for sensing slip during limit handling manouvres. That means you can't tell what's happening when
the car slides and it feels like the slide happens more abruptly with less warning.
It doesn't but most drivers rely upon the body roll to warn them or at least allow them to sense when the car is cornering hard and
on-the-limit.
You need to tune the Slip-Control-System and the tyre grip-slip behaviour to make it manageable.
There's a lot more information HERE
[Edited on 30/6/14 by JAG]
Wasn't the Citroen Xantia Activa the quickest car through the elk test?
That had virtually no roll.
quote:
Originally posted by Wadders
Just curious, but how would you totally eliminate roll while still maintaining useful suspension movement?
Al.
I don't think you'd tip over unless your CofG was high compared to your track width, but you may end up lifting a wheel off the ground if
they cannot move independently. If they can move independently then you will get body roll unless, as BritishTrident says, you can get the CofG level
to or beneath the roll axis (or use a active roll control). To be fair even without independent movement you will still get a small amount of body
roll due to the flex in the tyres. Also if the wheels are rigidly linked you've basically got a live axle, and there's plenty of info on
that subject!
If you wanted to use an active roll control system, there may be some mileage in that. I vaguely remember one of the F1 teams had something similar
and it was disliked. If it allows you to keep your tyres vertical to the road then it helps maintain a large, and square contact patch. There is a
fair amount of electrickery involve from what I know
In summary I don't think there'd be any benefit to a mechanical system - probably quite the opposite. However if you think you have a
winning idea don't let me discourage you from trying it
Thanks all for your excellent feedback. Very helpful food for thought and much appreciated.
I might need to buy myself some meccano.... unless you can suggest an alternative for modelling with!
best
D
quote:
Originally posted by Dave Ashurst
Thanks all for your excellent feedback. Very helpful food for thought and much appreciated.
I might need to buy myself some meccano.... unless you can suggest an alternative for modelling with!
best
D
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Very easy just design the roll axis to pass through the cg.
quote:
Originally posted by Sam_68
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Very easy just design the roll axis to pass through the cg.
Plenty of vintage specials (cars like John Bolster's Bloody Mary) are very close to this condition.
With independent suspension the main problem is jacking as a result of the high roll centre (though this can be limited by limiting the available droop movement, albeit with side effects of its own).
With beam axles (as Bloody Mary and other low-slung vintage jobs with big wheels), there is no jacking effect, but the remaining problem is that the driver finds it more difficult to sense the build-up of lateral forces, hence the approaching limit of grip. Many single seaters have run so stiff in front roll that they effectively corner flat, though... you just need a top-notch driver who can judge and respond to other cues.
With a tadpole trike, bear in mind that if you run the front so stiff that it allows negligible roll (and assuming your roll axis isn't coincident with your CoG), some of the lateral weight transfer will be translated into compression of the rear spring, so it will tend to make the car squat rather than roll.
quote:
Originally posted by Badger_McLetcher
If you wanted to use an active roll control system, there may be some mileage in that. I vaguely remember one of the F1 teams had something similar and it was disliked. If it allows you to keep your tyres vertical to the road then it helps maintain a large, and square contact patch. There is a fair amount of electrickery involve from what I know
Here's another more informative vid
quote:
Originally posted by v8kid
quote:
Originally posted by Sam_68
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Very easy just design the roll axis to pass through the cg.
Plenty of vintage specials (cars like John Bolster's Bloody Mary) are very close to this condition.
With independent suspension the main problem is jacking as a result of the high roll centre (though this can be limited by limiting the available droop movement, albeit with side effects of its own).
With beam axles (as Bloody Mary and other low-slung vintage jobs with big wheels), there is no jacking effect, but the remaining problem is that the driver finds it more difficult to sense the build-up of lateral forces, hence the approaching limit of grip. Many single seaters have run so stiff in front roll that they effectively corner flat, though... you just need a top-notch driver who can judge and respond to other cues.
With a tadpole trike, bear in mind that if you run the front so stiff that it allows negligible roll (and assuming your roll axis isn't coincident with your CoG), some of the lateral weight transfer will be translated into compression of the rear spring, so it will tend to make the car squat rather than roll.
I can't quite get my head round this could you expand? Do you mean if the front and rear slip angles are different the lateral force is not at right angles to the centerline and there will be a longitudinal component acting through the c of g. Surely this will be proportional to the slip angles at small angles and negligible?
Cheers!
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
quote:
Originally posted by v8kid
quote:
Originally posted by Sam_68
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Very easy just design the roll axis to pass through the cg.
Plenty of vintage specials (cars like John Bolster's Bloody Mary) are very close to this condition.
With independent suspension the main problem is jacking as a result of the high roll centre (though this can be limited by limiting the available droop movement, albeit with side effects of its own).
With beam axles (as Bloody Mary and other low-slung vintage jobs with big wheels), there is no jacking effect, but the remaining problem is that the driver finds it more difficult to sense the build-up of lateral forces, hence the approaching limit of grip. Many single seaters have run so stiff in front roll that they effectively corner flat, though... you just need a top-notch driver who can judge and respond to other cues.
With a tadpole trike, bear in mind that if you run the front so stiff that it allows negligible roll (and assuming your roll axis isn't coincident with your CoG), some of the lateral weight transfer will be translated into compression of the rear spring, so it will tend to make the car squat rather than roll.
I can't quite get my head round this could you expand? Do you mean if the front and rear slip angles are different the lateral force is not at right angles to the centerline and there will be a longitudinal component acting through the c of g. Surely this will be proportional to the slip angles at small angles and negligible?
Cheers!
More to do with the lateral disposition of the wheels relative to the vehicle centre line.
Easier to get your head around if you think about it reversed ie. a normal trike, a kids pedal trike or Reliant style 3 wheeler.
Corner one of those on the limit and as the inside rear starts to lift the weight transferred not only to the rear outside but also to to front wheel increases...... which is why convention 3 wheelers have nasty reputation for flipping over.
The reverse trike configuration is of course more stable
quote:
Originally posted by v8kid
I can't quite get my head round this could you expand? Do you mean if the front and rear slip angles are different the lateral force is not at right angles to the centerline and there will be a longitudinal component acting through the c of g. Surely this will be proportional to the slip angles at small angles and negligible?
Cheers!
quote:
Originally posted by scudderfish
Here's another more informative vid
A lot of single seater race cars use near zero roll front setups, often coupled with a monoshock. Both pushrods connect to the monoshock, with Belleville washers to allowaa a tad of sideways movement. Does make for a car that needs a near perfect prepared ssurface though! Anything used on the road is unlikely to be suitable in imho
Yes, monoshocks are interesting and a bit of a black art. I'm not going to say too much about what I think I know about how they work,
other than to say that they're not quite as compromised on bumpy surfaces as you might expect... which explains why, contrary to all
expectations, they've become very successful on relatively bumpy and steeply cambered UK hillclimb tracks in recent years.
Monoshock or not, there has been a trend in recent years for for single seaters to run very stiff in roll at the front and very soft in
roll at the back, making them almost analogous to tadpole trikes, in fact, in terms of weight transfer characteristics.
For balance, here's a different point of view from an autocar test driver.
http://www.autocar.co.uk/blogs/anything-goes/pleasures-body-roll-and-why-peugeots-new-108-has-got-it-right
One of the features that made the original Range Rover work was the roll-centres were located high enough to allow relatively soft wheel rates without using anti-roll bars, endowing with it both saloon car like road manners and good off road traction.
quote:
Originally posted by Sam_68
Yes, monoshocks are interesting and a bit of a black art. I'm not going to say too much about what I think I know about how they work, other than to say that they're not quite as compromised on bumpy surfaces as you might expect... which explains why, contrary to all expectations, they've become very successful on relatively bumpy and steeply cambered UK hillclimb tracks in recent years.
Monoshock or not, there has been a trend in recent years for for single seaters to run very stiff in roll at the front and very soft in roll at the back, making them almost analogous to tadpole trikes, in fact, in terms of weight transfer characteristics.
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
One of the features that made the original Range Rover work was the roll-centres were located high enough to allow relatively soft wheel rates without using anti-roll bars...
quote:
Originally posted by CNHSS1GWJs Raptor is a lovely design both F&R
quote:
Originally posted by CNHSS1...Most hills SS use mega soft rear ends with a 3rd spring setup to stop it dragging its bum like a dog with worms...
I have a couple of mates running Force cars, LM and PT so have seen them develop more. When Lee Adms was running the raptor I was struck just how
simple and u cluttered it was, looked easy for a clubman to work on and maintain too, looked like a small component count and ran 3rd spring via bump
rubbers GW junior said it was purely to be lighter than a spring and most decent damper firms have data sheets for their bump rubbers (think raptor
ran ohlins or penske iirc).
I've seen the empire in its semi closed form a few events and subsequently in its tunneled and full aero form (looks like darth vaders weekend
track toy lol) but never seen it with the bodywork off tbh. It does look well sorted, not the car that's being stripped and fiddled with every 5
mins. I shall pop up to loton next weekend as its 3 mins fromhome but im not competing so will take a camera and have a squint. Wi post up if i get
any pics.
The idea of the floppy rears probably not as daft as it sounds given an uber stiff front end, should give mega traction off launch and out of the
tight cambered corners, thinking of Pardon at Prescott especially, thats one that makes most single seaters look like tesco trolleys!