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Brake Bias Bar / Pedal Box
daveb666 - 10/12/15 at 09:39 AM

Over the last few months I've replaced my pedal box for a new OBP one, along with both master cylinders. Front M16 calipers have been replaced for Wilwood 4 pots and new pads.

I've refreshed all the fluid.

There's LOADS of movement on the brake pedal and the car has little braking effort. It's either air in the lines, a dodgy new MC or how the pedal is setup.

I'm absolutely at the end of my tether with it; having a new child means car/garage time is limited and I've had enough.

Are there any trust worthy companies, or individuals around Yorkshire that I could take my car to to be fixed? Happy to pay an LCB'er to help if needed.

Thankyou in advance


theprisioner - 10/12/15 at 09:48 AM

I had this problem. I used an easy bleed system but watch the pressure 15psi is a good starting point. If you use too much pressure is can case air locks. With 15psi then manually bleed the system as before and you will be amazed. The alternative is to use a vacuum device. Anyway the rear is usually the problem as the pipe runs are longest and can have loops that store air. My J15 was a real b...h to bleed. Best of luck.


daveb666 - 10/12/15 at 10:28 AM

I've tried the eezibleed too, I get no bubbles.
How long do I need it on for? I prob did 10 seconds a corner but the fluid was good with no big or small bubbles.


theprisioner - 10/12/15 at 10:54 AM

You need a good friend on the pedal and do about 20 pedal strokes per nipple and lots of fluid esp on the back. Do the shortest pipe length first then progress to the other three, rotate at least twice.


rusty nuts - 10/12/15 at 06:37 PM

If you have replaced the master cylinders then 10 seconds on each Nile isn't really long enough. You are pushing air through the pipes, hoss and calliper so it has a fair way to travel , also are all bleed Naples at the top of the callipers? Do you have drum or disc rear brakes? Have you manually adjusted the brakes after backing off the handbrake cable?