Evenin' all.

My steering column will be exposed in my project, so I want it to look neat and minimal. Pics below of how it looks with column, locking device and boss.





I want to remove the boss and cut the column wall (not the shaft inside) immediately prior to the flange with the locking device), and then pull the alloy locking component off. Then either leave the steering-shaft exposed, or bridge the gap to the boss by welding on a same diameter column sleeve.

Now, me and my favourite tool (grinder) have cut into many things, but I've never been inside one of these locking components, so I've no idea what I'm likely to find.

I can't just unbolt the component as they are finished-off with studs (so naughty folk can't bypass the locking mechanism by just unbolting them). I know from experience that these fasteners are normally made from super-strong steel, so I'm not wasting drill bits.

Basically, what I'm trying to establish is if the final steering-shaft bearing is likely to be inside the column sleeve, rather than being inside the locking component.

I wouldn't be worried about losing the spring loaded part as the angles of my full steering system are such that if the steering wheel hits my face in a collision, then I'll already have lost everything from the bellybutton down! Also not worried about losing the steering-lock as I have a removable steering-wheel. Oh, and the indicator cancelling flange can come off too - I won't be using traditional stalks.

So, before I do what I normally do (butcher a perfectly functioning component, then go out and buy another), I thought I'd ask if anyone has been inside one of these parts and can provide some insight into the work I'd need to do if deleting the locking component and either leaving the steering-rod exposed, or extending the column sleeve.

In my head, I'm hoping that the final steering-shaft bearing is located pre-locking component, and that I could leave it either with the steering-shaft exposed for the last 3 to 4 inches, or continue the column sleeve without having to insert / retain a final bearing

Cheers

PS - the locking component is a Lotus part, so likely from some Ford or GM parts bin.

When I removed all that extra rubbish off my Sierra column I had to machine up a bush to support the revolving shaft, apart from that plain sailing and looks much better without.

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Originally posted by scootz
I can't just unbolt the component as they are finished-off with studs (so naughty folk can't bypass the locking mechanism by just unbolting them). I know from experience that these fasteners are normally made from super-strong steel, so I'm not wasting drill bits.

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Cheers guys. It will look so much neater without.

Mark - did you just put the bush in the column at the flange mating point with the locking component, or did you extend the shafts sleeve?

As already suggested use a dot punch at an angle to loosen the shear bolts , once moved they normally come out easily.

With them shear bolts I cut a slot in them with the dremel nice and deep and use a flat screw driver with a spanner for leverage.

Often you can unscrew the security bolts using a small chisel to tap the head around, if that doesn't work then weld a nut on top of the shear bolt and unscrew as normal.

Cheers
Davie

Cheers y'all

Just a thought if the "project" is pre - IVA you'd be better to leave the steering lock on until you've tested as it automatically complies with the security features by having the steering lock

quote:

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Originally posted by scootz
Cheers guys. It will look so much neater without.

Mark - did you just put the bush in the column at the flange mating point with the locking component, or did you extend the shafts sleeve?

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Thanks for all your input guys.

Have found a Powerflex top hat bush set that has the right OD. Will just need to bore out the hole to suit.

It's £20, but as it's intended as a suspension bush, I get 2 top hats... so can have a spare.

[Edited on 9/11/17 by scootz]