The bolt that holds the strut in place on the top of both of my uprights has sheared off and all attempts to remove it have failed.
Is it ok to just drill a 10mm hole straight through and use a bolt and nyloc rather than just using a bolt that screws into the other threaded
half?
Thanks,
Pat...
Yes I would.Have done in thepast.Just make sure you use a 12.9 Bolt.The 8.8's tend to bend and streeeeeech in this application.
Dunno if it'd work in this case, but I recenty had to remove a sheared stud from the manifold of my Cavalier. I welded some box section to it and used it as a lever. It came right out.
Thanks Chris, but they are more than "under" flush with an 8mm hole through the middle of them and a stud extractor broken off in one of
them!
Will go for the 10mm hole and use a socet cap - seen people do it like this anyway to incorporate the cycle wing bracket.
Cheers,
Pat...
One of mine sheared off and I have drilled through it, will try to get as large as possible a hole through and see if I can then chisel out the
remainder of the original bolt - otherwise it will be a nut and bolt.
Main problem was drilling straight so the bolt will lie flush when tightened.
Both of mine sheared off sub flush. Nut and bolt is OK. The hardest part is drilling the old bolts out. Iam guessing they are high tensile. I used a
cordless drill (pro type (DeWalt)) and found the process to be a right pain. Started with pilot hole then worked up. They did not drill out straight
and dont look pretty. I cant see how it would be possible to remove them at home and end up with the original threaded hole intact (toolroom might be
able to if you pay them - milling machine). My advise - take your time and if possible line the hubs up under pillar drill (not easy in practice).
IHTH,
Darren.
You could get it helicoiled -- I used to have a set of 5/16" helicoil taps for repairing Elan cylinder heads -- the result is as strong or stronger than original.
in the past i had the same problem. in a exhaust apllication.
if i was you, i would try to drill trhoug it and do the last part with a steel saw
like to cut figures.
you then only lose 1mm of the thread.
and with a screw driver you then should be able to pull the piece of chit out..
TKS
p.d. what allso helps is let it weak allot of time in WD40 or something like that...
then they alsways will come faster off and because ever little bit helps...
Has anyone ever tried drilling through a carbon steel stud extractor? 
My suggestion would be to cut down the slot then use a chissel to expand and remove hub knuckle from leg. THEN you drill out the threaded piece and
use a GOOD STRONG drift to drift out the rest (the bit with the stud extractor). This way you don't have to (try and) drill the broken stud
extractor.
Enjoy. 5 days to go.
[Edited on 17/1/05 by jollygreengiant]
Easyout Stud extractors are the second thing you teach an apprentice mechanic not to use.
(The first thing not to use was the new O rings that used to come old fashioned paper cartridge oil filters -- disturb one of those on say a
Morris Oxford and you would spend the rest of the morning fixing the resultant oil leak )
[Edited on 17/1/05 by britishtrident]
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Easyout Stud extractors are the second thing you teach an apprentice mechanic not to use.
This seems a common thing to do. I've just done it as well. Head sheared off bolt, then easy out shears in bolt. I then decided to drill the
other side and try another easy out, unfortunately the drill bit shattered in the bolt. Decided to get another RH Sierra upright. Can anyone help?
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Easyout Stud extractors are the second thing you teach an apprentice mechanic not to use.
They can be usefull, but you really need a top notch expensive set, and you've got to know when to give up and take the part for spark errosion
I'd recommend spark-erosion. It's something that any decent machine shop can do. There's not a whole lot of manpower involved, just
initial set-up, then they will just leave the machine to it - it won't interfere with their day-to-day work so they should be quite friendly.
I had a tap removed from a model steam loco cylinder that I'd spent many hours machining - last hole to be tapped, as well!
If the part has any real value then it's worth getting a quote, if nothing else.
David