My two questions to You experienced kitcar Builders :
1. I have found that the torque on the nut when fitting this hub with bearings on driveshaft is approx 300-350Nm (!) wonder if I did found proper
values as those are cone-shaped bearings . Front cone shaped bearings requires far less torque !
2. after dissasembling I was going to only clean ands change the simmerings and grease fore new, but I thought that maybe I change the bearings for
new if all disasembled. But - as taking off the races seems to be not so easy, and dont want to destroy the bearing carrier - I wonder If it is ok to
leave the bearings races and change only the internal parts with rollers (dont know proper term in English - basket? You know, the main part in which
we put the grease in). Races seems to be ok visually.
Personally I would change the whole bearing. I did mine, which are similar but for discs/bolt on drive shafts. You can drift the outer races out -
although you need to be careful. I bought a brass rod to use as a drift.
daviep - 18/1/21 at 08:31 PM
1. JPS's torque is correct but the bearings will not actually being squeezed tighly, the hub and spline will mate to leave the correct space for
the bearings.
2. It's not good practice to mix and match bearing parts. If they are OK give them a clean, if they show wear change them properly. To remove the
outer cones run nice a big weld around the inside of the bearing, as the weld cools and contracts it will shrink the bearing which will then drop out
or knock out very easily.
[Edited on 18/1/21 by daviep]
rusty nuts - 18/1/21 at 08:43 PM
The tip with the welder is a good one , the bearing often falls out as it cools . You may find after fitting the bearings and tightening the hub nut
the hub is difficult to turn, this is normal and will ease when it has turned a few times
Andrzejsr - 18/1/21 at 10:16 PM
Thank You!
Inf fact before dissasembling ( car is bought used - starter projekt so was not sure) I tightened the nut stronger than IT was just with hand wrench .
And then it was harder to turn so thought there is something wrong so dissasembled..
When cleaning dropped one of the bearings and bend its "basket" . Thats why thinking of assembling with new just for sure.
Was changing the bearings with races on front (hispec Cortina type) , was not easy, do thought maybe leave the old races this time.
I have only little experience with welder and MMA type. IT makes a lot of mess around. Not sure its proper for the job if IT not destroy the surfaces
. I better Ask someone experienced to do this.
But thnaks for the tip! At least I know what to ask for
Once again thank You all! IT helps me a lot!
[Edited on 18/1/21 by Andrzejsr]
jps - 19/1/21 at 11:11 AM
quote:Originally posted by Andrzejsr
Thank You!
Inf fact before dissasembling ( car is bought used - starter projekt so was not sure) I tightened the nut stronger than IT was just with hand wrench .
And then it was harder to turn so thought there is something wrong so dissasembled..
When cleaning dropped one of the bearings and bend its "basket" . Thats why thinking of assembling with new just for sure.
Was changing the bearings with races on front (hispec Cortina type) , was not easy, do thought maybe leave the old races this time.
I have only little experience with welder and MMA type. IT makes a lot of mess around. Not sure its proper for the job if IT not destroy the surfaces
. I better Ask someone experienced to do this.
But thnaks for the tip! At least I know what to ask for
Once again thank You all! IT helps me a lot!
[Edited on 18/1/21 by Andrzejsr]
I'm not confident enough to try the weld trick - I put my carriers into the oven (can't remember the time/temp - maybe something like
200degrees for 45 mins) and the races were then a lot easier to drift out.
rusty nuts - 19/1/21 at 05:39 PM
If you have torqued up your Cortina front hubs you will have major problems. The nut should be tightened just enough to take out any play , I usually
tighten the nut by hand then just back it off a tiny bit
Andrzejsr - 19/1/21 at 06:02 PM
At the front (cortina) I have learned how to do it, know that there is a little tightening needed (did over 1000km of track only with westfield with
cortina type front hubs) .
That is why I was not sure of so hight torque values for this rear hub and the bearings are cone shape also.
But now understand that in rear should be tight . Now looking for proper bearings .
Andrzejsr - 20/1/21 at 02:19 PM
quote:Originally posted by daviep
1. JPS's torque is correct but the bearings will not actually being squeezed tighly, the hub and spline will mate to leave the correct space for
the bearings.
...
[Edited on 18/1/21 by daviep]
As I am looking for proper bearings ,I have found that there are three different width of bearings for this application. Both types are 60mm OD, 35mm
ID but - some are 18mm of width, some 16mm and some 18,5mm.
Thinking about those high torque - squeeeze values for those bearings I wonder - should both inside and outside bearings touch together ? - in the
space I marked there (arrows apexex) :
Or does it not matter for the squeeze if they touch together ?
As there are 16mm, 18mm and 18,5mm width bearings for this aplication, so if they need to touch each other to torque properly, then not all would be
appriopriate. For sure two 16mm are not touching each other. Also one 16mm and one 18mm does not (such bearings I have to try) .
If not one bearing against the other , then how they could be tightened so strong ?
[Edited on 20/1/21 by Andrzejsr]
Andrzejsr - 23/1/21 at 10:48 AM
Update :
Tried the "oven route" and it worked great - after 10-15 min in small oven, one race just felt , second needed 2-3 really light taps and
out!
jps - 23/1/21 at 06:18 PM
quote:Originally posted by Andrzejsr
Update :
Tried the "oven route" and it worked great - after 10-15 min in small oven, one race just felt , second needed 2-3 really light taps and
out!
I’m sure I picked up the technique from info on here anyway, but glad it worked for you!
