
Which side does the hub with the normal thread go and which side the dub with the backwards thread?
Also, I have lobro type stub axles with ABS teeth cut into the surface. These foul slightly on my uprights. What is the best way to make them fit?
I assume that the rotation of the hub should act to tighten the nut. So normal thread on the right side (drivers side), left hand thread on passenger
side. (This is how it usually works anyway!)
Not sure about the other Q.
Cheers,
David
[Edited on 4/6/05 by flak monkey]
I used a lathe to turn the teeth off I have heard of others using grinders etc.
lathe is the way forward though.
Cheers
Mark
As flack monkey said... The best way to get rid of the teeth is to turn them off with a lathe so its even....
with hub nuts, you can often see a few threads sticking through the nut, you can use these to identify the thread.
Is that true that the right handed thread is on the drivers side...... The rear right wheel will be rotating clockwise and hence you would expect the
nut to rotate anticlockwise to tighten and so this would be a left handed thread.
Is my logic correct?
quote:
Originally posted by Dave Bailey
Is that true that the right handed thread is on the drivers side...... The rear right wheel will be rotating clockwise and hence you would expect the nut to rotate anticlockwise to tighten and so this would be a left handed thread.
Is my logic correct?
Yep the odd/left-hand thread is on the near/passenger/left side of the car. I know this all to well as when I was stripping my first donor, the other
three came off easy but this one broke two breaker bars, which I was extending with scaffold pole and jumping on (good job halfords honoured their
lifetime gaurantee). It wasn't until i towed the thing to a garage and got them to do it that I learned the thread was a different direction and
I was tightening it - doh!
But as Dave points out, this is the wrong way round for the nuts to be tightened by acceleration/driving forwards. It therefore must be the case that
Ford decided the nuts have the greatest 'undoing' load during sudden braking from high speed (at high speed the nuts will have a lot of
inertia and will want to carry on rotating when you suddenly slow the wheel down - makes sense I suppose). This explains (to me anyway) why the
threads are as they are. Apart from that what other load can undo the nuts - they are just holding two splined parts together - pure tension.
All seems pointless to me anyway - the nuts are so damned tight and staked over to lock them. And why are the front nuts just a regular direction
thread both sides (including the 4x4 and every other car's hub nuts I've ever undone). I dunno.
Liam
[Edited on 4/6/05 by Liam]
quote:
Originally posted by Liam
All seems pointless to me anyway - the nuts are so damned tight and staked over to lock them. And why are the front nuts just a regular direction thread both sides (including the 4x4 and every other car's hub nuts I've ever undone). I dunno.
Liam
[Edited on 4/6/05 by Liam]
The front of a 4x4 has exactly the same arrangement as the rear, yet two conventional threads for the hub nuts. Even then the only way I can see any
torque could act to undo the nut is as I have described above - the nut's own inertia under sudden braking/wheel lock. But thinking about it
that could probably be quite high indeed. So why arent the fronts (and those of other FWD cars) opposite threaded?? Who knows...
It probably depends on the age of your sierra whether you have nylocs or a staked nut. I've seen both and would probably stake a nyloc if you
could anyway just to be safe.
Liam