Rescued attachment pipe run.jpg
Has anyone plumbed the whole braking system in braided dash 3 hose. I am building a velocity and want to use all braided hose. Anyone know if this is o.k. for SVA?
Why?????
Expensive way to do it !
Use copper like everyone else.
Not sure how long it'll last before needing replacement tho. Does the rubber perish like normal flexy hose?
Why you ask?
simple because I can!
Braided hose is nylon core with stainless protective coating and should outlast any copper. Brake feel is also apparently better. Cost is about £80.00
so not that expensive!
I think you are a bit confused.
Braided hoses are used to replace the rubber hoses and do give much better brake feel. They will not be an improvement on copper or kunifer, and will
not last as long.
Hmmmmm!
Got me thinking now! I took some advice from a friend who builds race cars and to be honest it seemed as if it would be easier to install so I thought
I would give it a go...........
not so sure now!
You learn something new each day!
How much did your brake lines cost to get made up?
I think that the braiding will rub the paint off anything it touches - eg your chassis.
Really neatly bent copper piping looks good.
I'm with you on the total braded hose solution.
I saw this way of working on an Ultima and thought that it was a far better solution than copper tube, particularly when you have difficult bends to
deal with and it looks very neat.
Sure, it's a more expensive solution but I think it gives a quality race car look.
I have gone this route with my GT-1 (but not SVA'd yet) don't anticipate any problems though.
Cheers
Mike
On a road going car the best route is not to use steel braided hose for either the fixed plumbing or the flexies.
Kuniffer is by far the best material for the fixed pipework.
Standard rubber covered flexies for are designed and approved for the job they do they have a really major advantage in that they can be
clamped when working on a corner, thus avoiding a complete refill and bleed of the brakes system not to mention the mess of leaking fluid.
Re brake feel you won't notice the difference, in fact the pedal will be slightly less firm if you replace the fixed pipework with hose. For
pedal feel the most important points are to get the pedal box and its mountings as stiff as possible and make sure the calipers are completely true
to the disk surface.
If you have drum brakes on the rear the deformation of the drum will always prevent getting a truely firm pedal and swamp the tiny gain of replacing
normal flexies with steel braided hose.
[Edited on 8/10/05 by britishtrident]
The topic's been covered before and common sense will never beat this logic. I'm with BT on the practical advantages of Kunifer. I bought a roll for £8 and had some left over. The only bit of pipe you see when the car is finished is the front flexy so unless you dismantle it every time you park up who's going to see the quality anyway.
I like the feel that braided teflon lines give over rubber flexies, but for the main lines on the car use kunifer, it's MUCH cheaper and I think
looks neater.
As has been said, the braiding will chafe anything it touches on the long lines, and if you EVER do any welding on the car with the lines in place,
you can be in for a nasty shock.
On a rally car we tacked on a bracket a couple of feet away from a braided line, and unbeknown to us a spot of spatter stuck to the braided line and
it then burst the first time the brakes were used really hard.
I'd say definitely use them for the flexies, much nicer than rubber (apart from the points made by Britishtrident) but definitely use kunifer
(not plain copper) for the long lines.
quote:
Originally posted by Mike S
...... it was a far better solution than copper tube, particularly when you have difficult bends to deal with and it looks very neat.
Cheers
Mike
Challenge accepted!!!
Will post some pictures some time.
If you clip the flexables at the same distance as the solid tube it's easily as good.
Mike
I think you may have missed the point. you cannot clamp them at the same intervals as copper pipe. If you try to they will whip up and down causing the chaffing that Jon mentions.
I plumbed my off-road cars with just the Nylon lines (the stuff that's inside the braided flexies) which are so simple to install and don't
chaffe.
I'm not sure if Mr. SVA would approve the plain Nylon lines though.
I must say though, hard lines are so cheap neat that I wouldn't consider anything else for a road car.
I often sleeved the braided flexies with clear (or coloured) PVC tubing because with 14" of wheel travel, the flexies can do quite a bit of
rubbing.
quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
I plumbed my off-road cars with just the Nylon lines (the stuff that's inside the braided flexies) which are so simple to install and don't chaffe.
I'm not sure if Mr. SVA would approve the plain Nylon lines though.
I must say though, hard lines are so cheap neat that I wouldn't consider anything else for a road car.
I often sleeved the braided flexies with clear (or coloured) PVC tubing because with 14" of wheel travel, the flexies can do quite a bit of rubbing.
Having had braided hoses explode on my kart after they chafed, i wouldn't want to use them on a road car except the flexible variety for the
terminal ends to the calipers...
I have braided right through my RS2000 done 2 years and 4500miles no problems apart from there a tw*t to keep clean. The next lot i do will be clear plastic coated.
Goodridge do a complete range of PVC coated braided hoses in a variety of colours, as well as clear.
I've also heard that most race/rally cars are plumbed using braided hoses throughout, although I could never quite understand why.
If you're interested in the PVC coated hoses, let me know.