The jig was good enough that the lower arm can be fliped over and fit in either way. The 2 uppers are exactly alike. I fishmouthed all the tubes with my handy dandy trusty angle grinder, lots of fitting and a little bit of trial and error. I did screw up my first try at a lower arm (not pictured).

These are built around using s10 steering knuckles, and this design is adjustable for camber, and caster. Toe will be adjustable with the steering rack.


before welding in the jig


before and after in jig


with and without hardware


a closer view of the upper arm jig


size difference between upper and lower


upper and lower together


The brackets clamp around the heim joint

Looks good. I'd put a horizontal brace between the two treaded tubes. As-is, there isn't a lot of welded area for you to trust your life to.

I've always wondered...On these types of set ups, what keeps the ball joint from dropping through the bottom or lifting ou the top? Is the a snap ring or something?

They look really nice.

Like chris said, I would weld another round bar across the two arms of the lower bone nearer the rose jointed end.

Pat...

that was the plan, I also need to cut up some a bracket for the shocks to mount on.

quote:

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Originally posted by chrisf
Looks good. I'd put a horizontal brace between the two treaded tubes.

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Derf will tell you. As his control arms stand, he can flex them about. Adding the horizontal bar will stiffen it up quite a bit. Of course they will be stiffer once mounted on the chassis, but why take chances.

--Chris

no they don't move at all, but a horizontal bar will definatly create a much stronger unit.

Look just dandy to me , I was at one stage toying with something similar using Mini/Metro ball joints.