Whats the best/cheapest at the moment ?
Help would be appreciated guys !
OK, I need to get my coilovers. What is the spec I need to ask for ? Tiger Avon +Pinto
Whats the best/cheapest at the moment ?
Help would be appreciated guys !
Cheapest would be the GTS shocks. £220 for a set of adjustables.
Cant remember the lengths of them off the top of my head though!
David 
Why are they fitted to the top of your head Flak ?
Flak, av you got a brother? Theres a noobie called Locostmonkey
Is it a take over bid for world domination.?
quote:
Why are they fitted to the top of your head Flak?
quote:
Flak, av you got a brother? Theres a noobie called Locostmonkey
Is it a take over bid for world domination.?
Personally I would recommend that you speak to MNR about some Protech items!
Not the absolute cheapest, but alloy so really light, adjustable and BEAUTIFULLY made, and just over £300 for 4!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ludicrously cheap for the quality
have you tried lolocost a sub devision of robin hood cars?they have a web site.
Cheapest will probably be Zeemerides - these, by all accounts, are truly awful, avoid like the plague. If I were replacing mine I'd also go for the Protechs, for quality and price these are the ones to go for.
quote:
Originally posted by GeoffT . . . . . . . If I were replacing mine I'd also go for the Protechs, for quality and price these are the ones to go for.
Having used both Gaz and Protech, there isn't much in it, but the Protech look a lot better!
Don't ask Tiger what lengths though, as all the front ones supplied for the Avons are the wrong length and still are, depsite being told so.
Pat...
quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Don't ask Tiger what lengths though, as all the front ones supplied for the Avons are the wrong length and still are, depsite being told so.
Pat...
Back ones should be fine.
Front ones will rest on the bump stops when the bottom bone is parallel to the ground, so the shock has no travel apart from squashing the bump stop -
not good.
That' why every Avon you see will be high at the front and the bottom bones on a stupid angle.
Front shock should be at least 1" shorter, maybe even 2" if there open length will be adequate.
Jack the front up and set the bottom bones parallel to the ground. Measure from the lower bone shock bracket hole centre to the top shock bracket hole
situated on the chassis.
This will give you the middle distance that the shock should be at during normal ride height.
Check the travel length of the shocks you intend to buy and work out the length to buy accordingly from the middle distance scenario and the distance
between the holes.
For springs on the front, I've heard around 250lbs is about right, but no one will agree.
Hope that all makes sense,
Pat...
Theres a set of gaz on ebay at the min with springs. Do a search for locost.
NTDWM
thanks guys. I think that about covers it !
quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Back ones should be fine.
Front ones will rest on the bump stops when the bottom bone is parallel to the ground, so the shock has no travel apart from squashing the bump stop - not good.
That' why every Avon you see will be high at the front and the bottom bones on a stupid angle.
Front shock should be at least 1" shorter, maybe even 2" if there open length will be adequate.
Jack the front up and set the bottom bones parallel to the ground. Measure from the lower bone shock bracket hole centre to the top shock bracket hole situated on the chassis.
This will give you the middle distance that the shock should be at during normal ride height.
Check the travel length of the shocks you intend to buy and work out the length to buy accordingly from the middle distance scenario and the distance between the holes.
For springs on the front, I've heard around 250lbs is about right, but no one will agree.
Hope that all makes sense,
Pat...
Look here for some more info
Cheers
Fred WB
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=33390
I am no expert on suspension design, but here is another of my rants/half-pennths!!!!
So many suspension designs seem to take a flawed setup, then apply stiff springs to ensure that the suspension rarely if ever moves outside of
it's "geometrically honest" envelope of movement.
I know that my locost chassis and wishbones are no better than any else, but if you look outside of our little world on here at disciplines where grip
is fundamental to winning, two obvious ones being autograss and rallycross, you see a very different approach.
Huge suspension movement, designed to keep the geometry as "honest" as possible through the maximum wheel movement............surely this
is what we should all be striving for?
I hear talk of frankly ridiculously high spring rates used on locosts, actually higher in some cases that I have used on 1 tonne opel manta tarmac
rally cars!!!!
The simple fact is that ass the suspension is trying to do is prop the car up at the same time as preserve grip at each tyre footprint. To do this is
needs to keep the weight of the car distributed optimally over the wheels most able to convert that weight (and therefore friction) into movement, and
it needs to keep any changes in that weight on each tyre footprint as smooth as possible.
Stiffer than necessary suspension does not allow either of these things to happen!!!
The one disadvantage of "softer" suspension on our cheap(ish) little cars is that greater wheel movement requires better dampers, which
unfortunately are not cheap!
anway, must go and get on wi't car.