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Transit TRE tread length......Again!
PaulBuz - 8/1/06 at 09:14 PM

I know this has been posted before & have read most of the replies on a search,but this is a BIG problem for me at the moment.
I have a transit TRE as my top balljoint.
The problem is that there is nowhere near enough thread poking through the other side of the cortina upright.
At most there is 5mm.
After the wing support stay is placed there as well the protruding thread is approx. 2-3mm!!!
The tre has a Main thread dia. of 18mm.
There has been talk of a misunderstanding over the TRE or drop link.
Over the weekend I went to the local factors to try a different balljoint, but it was exactly the same length of 19mm thread length.
I really dont want to machine the face of the upright ,as I suspect it was designed with its current thickness for a reason.
What have others done???


flak monkey - 8/1/06 at 09:25 PM

There should be enough thread. You sometimes need to thin the locknut up a bit, preferably in a lathe, but there are other ways.

Once you get the nut on and start to tighten it up it will pull through some more.

There are different ways of mounting wing supports. But many have used ones attached at the top joint, and not had problems AFAIK.

David


caber - 8/1/06 at 09:29 PM

Forget about nyloc nots, get a castle nut and you should have enough room to drill for a split pin, if not take a bit off the castle nut with a file, as long as you have enough meat for 3 or 4 turns of thread you should be OK. Remember the main load is taken on the taper not the threaded section.

Caber


bob - 8/1/06 at 09:39 PM

The reason you may have a short thread is because of wrong information in "the book"

It should read a transit drag link end and not a transit track rod end Rescued attachment top ball joints.jpg
Rescued attachment top ball joints.jpg


PaulBuz - 8/1/06 at 10:15 PM

As I understand it the TRE which I have has a thread of 18mm.
The drop or drag link has a thread of 20mm.
Obviously my top wishbone is made up with a m18x1.5 metric thread.
Regarding turning down a nyloc,I have a lathe in my garage but it won't help me in this case as I only have 1-2 exposed threads!


Mark Allanson - 8/1/06 at 10:30 PM

Macining the upright will make no difference, you would have to increase the width of the tapered hole to get more threads exposed.

I had the same problem to a lesser extent, different suppliers of the balljoints have different specifications, try a different make?


PaulBuz - 8/1/06 at 10:40 PM

Thats just the problem Mark.
I have already tried one different make.
What do I have to do? trawl round all the motor factors in he hope of finding the right one?
I know that Rorty has asked for a database of part numbers because of this problem.
I honestly don't think that I will find a TRE with an additional 10mm of thread,but the thing that really puzzles me is why everone using the same parts is'nt having the problem to the extent that I seem to be.


Mark Allanson - 8/1/06 at 11:02 PM

10mm does seem a MASSIVE amount, what is the thickness of you upright where the balljoint passes through, I will measure mine tomorrow to see which part is the guilty party


bob - 8/1/06 at 11:06 PM

In the picture the track rod end is on the left with a 20mm thread and on the right is the drag link that most use and GTS plus lolocost sell which is M18.


MikeRJ - 8/1/06 at 11:11 PM

quote:
Originally posted by PaulBuz
As I understand it the TRE which I have has a thread of 18mm.
The drop or drag link has a thread of 20mm.
Obviously my top wishbone is made up with a m18x1.5 metric thread.
Regarding turning down a nyloc,I have a lathe in my garage but it won't help me in this case as I only have 1-2 exposed threads!


It's 100% definately the drag link end you want which has a thread of M18x1.5. The track rod end is incorrectly specified in the book.


britishtrident - 8/1/06 at 11:42 PM

QH part number QD1117RH


Avoneer - 9/1/06 at 12:04 AM

Had no threads beyond my nyloc on the Avon so drilled through the nut and TRE and inserted a 1mm split pin.

Have you done the nut up really tight, as the taper needs to be pulled into the hole really tight.

Pat...


britishtrident - 9/1/06 at 12:19 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Had no threads beyond my nyloc on the Avon so drilled through the nut and TRE and inserted a 1mm split pin.

Have you done the nut up really tight, as the taper needs to be pulled into the hole really tight.

Pat...


Most builders use a 1/2 thickness nyloc, as it is easier to be 100% sure you protect sharp edges for SVA


PaulBuz - 9/1/06 at 04:23 PM

Have just measured the thicness of the upright.
22.3mm
I have also cleaned the paint out of the taper-DUHH!
This has helped as I now have approx. 7. after the brcket support.
But is 7mm enough for a nyloc?


PaulBuz - 10/1/06 at 04:21 PM

ANSWER:
No
Just turned down a nyloc.
Even with just 2 visible threads (ie.lethal) the threads don't quite poke through the nylon.
Have now tried 4 diffent suppliers for thread length...all the same