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Master Cylinder
bodger - 11/2/07 at 10:14 PM

Bolted in my master cylinder last night & then realised the bottom outlet is only 20mm above a chassis member.
Any ideas, does anyone sell a brass 90 bend ?

Master cylinder fouling chassis
Master cylinder fouling chassis


[Edited on 11/2/07 by bodger]


DIY Si - 11/2/07 at 10:16 PM

Is it possible to re-drill the bulkhead and turn the cylinder round a bit? Or is there stuff in the way?


bodger - 11/2/07 at 10:19 PM

I could re drill but then the reservoir wont be level & I'll have two more holes.


mookaloid - 11/2/07 at 10:19 PM

Oops

I think I'd be looking for a diffferent master cylinder


DIY Si - 11/2/07 at 10:23 PM

Ah, now the pics there, I'd have to agree with buying another one with the outlets in a different place.


bodger - 11/2/07 at 10:46 PM

Thanks for the replies, any suggestions as to a suitable replacement I'm using 9" drums at the rear & probably powerlites up front.


DIY Si - 11/2/07 at 10:52 PM

Could try taking it to your local motor factors and seeing if they have one of the same bore but with different outlets.


RazMan - 11/2/07 at 10:59 PM

The standard Girling or Wilwood have the outlets on the top side

Or how about a little sideways action from rally Design - not cheap though



[Edited on 11-2-07 by RazMan]


bodger - 11/2/07 at 11:22 PM

Ouch RazMan £80 + VAT, think I might try the local MF guy first.


RazMan - 11/2/07 at 11:40 PM

Have a word with your local hydraulics supplier - they can probably make up a 90 degree fitting for you. You may have to insert it before bolting up the m/c mountings though as I doubt you will have enough room. You might even get away with machining a little metal off the boss to increase clearance that way - worth a look.

[Edited on 11-2-07 by RazMan]


jollygreengiant - 12/2/07 at 03:47 AM

Blanking plug in the bottom and a short pipe with a T piece to split to two pipes again.


Rudy - 12/2/07 at 07:09 AM

yes, I agree. I' am 100% sure.


britishtrident - 12/2/07 at 07:32 AM

Yes agree stick a nipple or blanking plug in.
If you using a nipple just cut it down enough to clear.


RazMan - 12/2/07 at 07:49 AM

Now why didn't I think of that!

*edit* If that is a tandem m/c then he would only have one half working. You will need to connect to the other one for both circuits I'm afraid.


[Edited on 12-2-07 by RazMan]


flak monkey - 12/2/07 at 07:58 AM

Mine was the same - different cylinder, but still a bottom outlet... The cylinder outlet isnt above the rail is it? You should be able to bend a bit of tube so it goes down between the chassis rails (not under them), then loops up onto the top of one of them.

David

[Edited on 12/2/07 by flak monkey] Rescued attachment 1.jpg
Rescued attachment 1.jpg


bodger - 12/2/07 at 11:41 AM

quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
Mine was the same - different cylinder, but still a bottom outlet... The cylinder outlet isnt above the rail is it?
-- Yep right above it, can't believe I didn't spot it when I drilled the holes. Still the blanking plug idea sounds like the way to go.


RazMan - 12/2/07 at 11:59 AM

quote:
Originally posted by RazMan


*edit* If that is a tandem m/c then he would only have one half working. You will need to connect to the other one for both circuits I'm afraid.



Not sure if you saw my edit


macnab - 12/2/07 at 12:45 PM

Simply plug that hole and use a T piece instead to each wheel…


Peteff - 12/2/07 at 12:49 PM

The two front outlets go to the front wheels and the rear circuit is the back outlet so blanking it will work. We used the other front outlet for a brake light switch on a friends car without any problems.


RazMan - 12/2/07 at 01:18 PM

Ahhhh