I am using Cortina front uprights disks and calipers in my recently constructed BEC can anyone advise of an upgrade of disks with the least bother,financial or mechanical
Hi,
A number of Locosters have used Austin Princess (Wedge) twin-pot front calipers in place of the Cortina items. Maybe one of them can supply weight
data.
MGF calipers also look good, but you need to check out the comparative offsets of this brake vs the M16.
And then let us all know.
Dick
Best of luck
2.8i capri discs and calipers will bolt straight on they are vented...
Thanks for the advice guys need something without lots of trouble as the tina disks etc were only intended to get the thing going and are in need of
renewal,but no point in spending money on tina stuff as im sure the Capri stuff,as suggested is much better.
If you've got the cash go for Wilwood alloy calipers, v. light and excellent controllable hard braking.
quote:
Thanks for the advice guys need something without lots of trouble as the tina disks etc were only intended to get the thing going and are in need of renewal,but no point in spending money on tina stuff as im sure the Capri stuff,as suggested is much better
I can only assume that as suggested by STU16v tinas braking set up is capable enough if not in poor condition. However mine would be in need of new
disks and I would like to be aware of all the possibilities that you guys have offered up. Like the sound of the Wilwood jobbies,any idea of the
likely cost ? would consider new tina or 2.8i disks.(not to offend anyone and to keep the discussion going)
£380 with new vented disks. Not cheap but v. nice and v. effective. Allows controllable hard braking, when it locks up it's easy to cadence (?) brake.
cortina and capri calipers on an exchange basis are about £40 a pair, new discs and decent pads and decent flexi lines (goodridge. aeroquip) is all ou need, any more is probably overkill but would look better.
Like the sound of Capri items.I must check out where to buy these, anybody got an idea?.I already have the Goodridge lines.Wish I could go out and buy
the Wilwood items but reality is calling. Does the capri disk bolt on as in the tina or is it a single piece including the bearing carrier
I can sort you out a set of Focus ST170 calipers brand new for £250 with pads. You'll just need to get some 300mm vented discs to go with them
(Ford sell them as spares for the ST170)
Chris
Brand spanking new discs for a Cortina can be bought for less than a tenner each, and a lot cheaper than vented ones at the very least. Recon calipers
will probably cost the same (IIRC the vented calipers are exactly the same, just with a spacer in the middle to give extra width). Invest in some
decent brake pads (EBC Greenstuff etc, but down to personal preference) which will probably be the biggest outlay. Bed them in properly and you
*should* have some stonking brakes.
At present I have just standard replacement Ferodo pads in my car and TBH they are fantastic, hauling my VX powered car (which is probably 'a
few' kilos heavier than your BEC) to a stop with ease. Sorry about questioning why you want to upgrade but I just dont want to see people throw
money at something for the wrong reasons. People new to the Kit scene can be alarmed by the so called 'feebleness' of the braking system on
their new car, when in reality it is just a case of getting used to the fact that the car isnt helping you apply the brakes in the form of servo
assistance. Friends that have drove my cars (Westy/Locost) have more often than not reported back by saying something along the lines of "Bloody
hell, that goes well, but the brakes are crap". I then put them in the passenger seat and give them a demo....
As mentioned earlier, this reality thing(wife) dictates that I must look towards tina/capri for an effective braking system.To that end I think I
should source new disks and ditch the less than effective standard type pads for the Cortina set up.Where to buy these anybody?
rally design www.raldes.co.uk is a good place to try...
Ned.
Just three points:
1) You do not need vented disks
2) You do not need vented disks
3) See point 1
I use standard disks on my race car with Wilwood calipers and on my 680kg road car with Mintex M1144 pads. Never run out of brakes on either
Hi all,
On my wesbite www.gtstuning.co.uk i have posted drawings of several different Ford brake discs. This might be of use when you are looking at brake
upgrades.
Kind regards,
Darren
Hi,
I'd just like to endorse the recommendation to get EBC greenstuff pads. They have a higher than standard co-efficient of friction (0.46 compared
with 0.35 or so for standard pads) and thus counteract the lack of servo assistance giving more bite and ultimately more retardation. Don't be
tempted to get EBC red or yellow stuff as these won't work well from cold and are only really for race applications. Try Proven Products on
http://www.provenproducts.co.uk to compare prices with Raldes.
I use greenstuff on my roadgoing Rover Vitesse turbo and at my last MOT the tester couldn't believe the braking force readings. I also use black
diamond grooved and vented discs with high temperature dot 5.1 fluid and new calipers. My braking force was 550Kg's on each front wheel which
when combined with the rear figures gave me a braking efficiency of something like 120%
With standard pads and discs I only got around 380Kg's braking force on the front.
BTW, has anyone ever considered using Metro 4-pot calipers on a Locost? These must be pretty cheap light and IIRC quite good.
Cheers,
Craig.
quote:
My braking force was 550Kg's on each front wheel which when combined with the rear figures gave me a braking efficiency of something like 120%
With standard pads and discs I only got around 380Kg's braking force on the front.
Stu,
I'd have to disagree on the basis that the MOT brake test is conducted with a limited amount of brake pressure applied to the pedal (20Kg's
rings a bell but I'm not 100% sure tbh). I've never seen this measured in any way other than by feel but it was the MOT tester who commented
that the brakes were "wicked"
Also, the car felt much much better to me even though the discs and pads which were previously on the front were in excellent condition and the
calipers had been overhauled. The car brakes much more smoothly and is actually less likely to lock up the wheels now despite increased braking
forces. I'm not quite sure why this is the case but I guess it has something to do with the pads being more stable and consistent at high
temperatures. Maybe lesser pads start to change characteristics under heavy use and cause the premature lock up. (Anyone able to explain this
properly?)
To add objectivity to subjectivity, the spec for the greenstuff pads gives a co-efficient of friction of 0.46 as I mentined above which is much higher
(30% or so IIRC) than a spec I saw at the time for some standard Ferodo pads.
HTH,
Craig.
Stu,
On your second point, I have seen similar isolated complaints but I know that at least one of these was due to someone fitting the pads wrongly. The
pads weren't seated correctly due to the piston not being turned to the correct orientation and one of them was not touching the disc squarely.
I've also heard complaints where "boy racers" have gone for red or even yellow stuff because they must be better...right! (Wrong, not
for road use anyway. Not even fast road use.)
Cheers,
Craig.
Fair comments mate, but the MOT brake test *should* be a measurement of the maximum braking effort (usually 'lock-up' on front axle) coupled
with other test procedures for checking for excessive brake judder, brake bind etc, and unless the tester has some form of guage to apply the same
pressure on the brakes with and without Greenstuff, an MOT test comparision is meaningless really . What does matter is 'real world', which
you were obviously also impressed with....
Cheers, Stu.
Stu,
I agree that usually the tyres start to skid during MOT's but as I said, with these discs/pads the point where skidding begins seems to require
more braking force. Anyway, you are correct that real world is more important.
My main point in all this is that if you have brakes which lack "bite" perhaps due to the lack of servo assistance, then switching to
greentuff is a good way to get at least some of the bite back. I'd rather see people do that rather than implement a servo which is not necessary
on such a light vehicle. Even vented discs can be made unnecessary as has been said and with high temperature dot 5.1 fluid and high temperature pads
such as the greenstuff then brake fade shouldn't happen even in extreme use.
Cheers,
Craig.
I added grooved discs and uprated red dot pads on my fiesta, and can thoroughly recommend them. All I would recommend is that guys with uprated pads
remember that when starting their cars, as first time the middle pedal is used, it can take an age to stop.......BANG!
Brakes are the last thing on my mind though, gotta get it started first
9904169,
That's the beauty of the greenstuff pads, they are designed to work from cold. In fact they work better than standard pads even from cold due to
the higher co-efficient of friction.
Cheers,
Craig.
right..didnt know that. Just thought they were the same, you know need to warm them up. Will get them for my car seeing as everyone rates them.
Mark
Hi,
Glad I could help 
Check out their website for more details ( http://www.ebcbrakesuk.com/automotiveinfo.html)
Here is a quote regarding the greenstuff pads:
"Triple Max Power Award winning Greenstuff are the ultimate performance/fast street brake pads you can get for your hot hatch or sport compact.
These pads have a high friction coefficient, great initial bite from cold, right up to a blistering 650 degrees centigrade. Another major benefit of
the Greenstuff compound is its award winning feature of being LOW DUST. Being awarded the UK magazines Autotrade Innovation Award for its low dust
features, Greenstuff pads cut down between 60-90% of the dust common with most competitive types of semi-metallic pad on your alloys keeping wheels
cleaner and delivering performance at the same time. Greenstuff pads are available for a huge range of cars, SUV’s, light trucks and mini
vans."
Cheers,
Craig.
As I've said before, I'm using corinta uprights and calipers, with the spacer kit for capri vented discs.
I've just updated my website with pics from reassembling the brakes at the weekend.
Look at this web page for futher details and pics.
Ned.
Ned,
Did you get happy with the grinder on the new spacer kit to make it flush with the calipers?
What is the "tool"
Just bought a rolling chassis and cbr1000 engine at the weekend - dont know what came over me. Dragged it back 330 miles from Scotland too! - must be
mad!
Col,
yes, used grinder on the spacer - read the webpage
the tool is the wire brush twisted cup for the angle grinder.
Ned.
Where does one purchase 'the tool' from?
homebase sell them at about £15 each (ouch!) scats sell them nearer £10-12 but I got two from a stand at the donington show for £10 (they were doing
£7each or 2x for £10)
Or try a motor factors or good tools shop.
the "tool":
Ned.
REMEMBER TO WEAR GOGGLES AND PREF LONG SLEEVES, POSSIBLY GLOVES.
[Edited on 20/10/03 by ned]
Always do overalls, big gloves, mask, proper goggles and a welding hat
I managed to kill my finger with a pair of pliers yesterday though (while trying to pull cortina brake pads out).
Did you buy the uprights already off? I'm having a real bugger of a time getting the split pins out. I'm thinking of murdering the nuts and
going for new 'tina lower balljoints, i like the idea of new ball joints and they aren't *that* pricey.
I think we're just sticking with normal disks but with good pads and braided hoses. Master cylinder on the 'tina looks well rusty and is
leaking at the vacuum servo end.. should just need new seals...
Mackie,
My uprights came with the tack welded chassis i bought as an abandoned project.
If you mean the split pin that holds the pads in, i used a small screwdriver until it 'pinged' off across the garage. the split pin by the
hub nut required some persuasion with a hammer, pliers and some wd40...
they looked like this.
Ned.
[Edited on 20/10/03 by ned]
Was that last statement a leading one?
Go on then.................... i know you are dying to show us what the look like now.
Post us a piccy , to give me inspiration to het handy with the wire brush!
No, I had no bother getting the pads out (well apart from a bit of lump hammer and drift for the pins and causing 2 nice big blood blisters when i
caught my finger in the pliers ). I'm talking about the split pins holding the castle nuts on the ball joint studs/bolts. The loop is totally
within the "turret" so i can't get anything in there to hammer them out and pushing with pliers does nowt. It's a real pain, hence
why I was thinking of just grinding them off and getting new lower ball joints.
What do you think?
BTW, the before and after pictures are amazing, definately getting one of those "the tools". Did you get your caliper seal kit from gts
tuning? Will have to investigate caliper paint too.
castle nut slit pin was a case of hammer, appropriate size screwdriver and pliers. carefull and painstaking, so as not to bend or brake the pin, but
to bloody well get it out!
here's a couple of pics:
more details at:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/users/ned/build/donorparts/index.htm
Ned.
Ned,
Bit late as you have made a good job of cleaning/painting the uprights but it may have been worth radiusing the edge of the casting with the hole to
take the ball joint as i know a couple of people who failed SVA for it.
Just a thought.
Yep, these work better than your standard pads, but do not stand up well to overheating (e.g. very hard braking on the track). I knocked out a set of
rear Red Stuff pads with one track day!
The rear brakes on most Sevens (Westfields and Caterhams for sure) do suffer from overheating under hard track use and benefit from ducting cooling
air on to them.
The other problem is the fact that the rear caliper piston is in full contact with the pad so there is a lot of heat soak from the paqd into the fluid
which can lead to a soft pedal after the car has cooled down. This can be cured by a few pumps on the pedal once moving.
Col,
I assume you mean the lugs where the top and bottom ball joints fit?
That had never ocured to me as a possible failure point - thanks for the info.
Mind you it is starting to get a bit silly isn't it? If I had got to the stage where the front upright of a car was about to hit me on the head
I would think that whether it was radiused or not would cause but an extremely minor variation in the quality of the experience!
Phil
I'm now inclinded to just cut them off and worry about it later tbph. It's not nice crouching in uncomfortable positions in icy wind and
trying to be careful. Bah. Tried drilling one out and broke a bit. Stupid. They should have just used nylocs dammit!
Actually i think the cortina had a new track rod end at one point because it had a nyloc on it and no hole for a split pin, the other side was a
normal castle nut but the split pin was easily removed with some long nose pliers.
when i was getting my track rod end out of the hub, i just ignored the split pin and snapped it off as i undid the nut. The remains just became part of the thread. was quite rusty though!
I contemplated just using brute force with a breaker bar.
Tried to get pistons out of calipers tonight, managed 1 on each. Does anyone know any magic tricks for getting the remaining one out?
Also the haynes manual says "thou shalt never split the caliper". Is there a risk of it never sealing again or is it just haynes not wanting
to get sued?
I've read that a blast with compressed air should just "pop" the pistons out but I've not had much luck that way. I just use a
G-clamp to push 'em in slightly (to free 'em off) then use 2 large flat bladed screwdrivers to lever them out, equal pressure on both
sides.
Don't split 'em 'cos you'll let the brake genie out !
The bolts that hold 'em together are "stretch" bolts (?) and need replacing with new when it comes to putting 'em back together,
I've not found any for sale, thats not to say they aren't out there...
HTH
Ive got a set of Cortina Hubs with new bearings ready to fit in them in if anybody is interested. They are cleaned up, Zink primed and painted black
see http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/eaglekitcars/Cars/EagleSS/EagleSS_Images/EagleSS_Cars/Simons_Build/0503A.jpg
and
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/eaglekitcars/Cars/EagleSS/EagleSS_Images/EagleSS_Cars/Simons_Build/0503B.jpg
for photos.
They are without the ugly back plates, callipers and disks. Email me for more info.
Regards
Simon
When painting your uprights do you need to use a heat proof paint or not?
Just a thought, as they might get hot as heat is conducted out of the disks?
Sam
Ordinary enamel works o.k. on them, they don't get that hot in normal road use.
yours, Pete.
I have since abused our cortina front uprights and ball joints until they came off. lump hammers and breaker bars rule.
as for the calipers.. how have any of you "reconditioned" your cortina calipers, if you can't split them? seems a bit hard to get a
wire wheel / Tool in the middle to clean them up nicely for painting..
quote:
Originally posted by blueshift
as for the calipers.. how have any of you "reconditioned" your cortina calipers, if you can't split them?
yeah, I think we're not planning to split them (unless anyone can tell us where to get the replacement bits?)
I was after hints about cleaning and painting without splitting..
quote:
Originally posted by mackie
<snip>
I'm talking about the split pins holding the castle nuts on the ball joint studs/bolts. The loop is totally within the "turret" so i can't get anything in there to hammer them out and pushing with pliers does nowt. It's a real pain, hence why I was thinking of just grinding them off and getting new lower ball joints.
What do you think?
BTW, the before and after pictures are amazing, definately getting one of those "the tools". Did you get your caliper seal kit from gts tuning? Will have to investigate caliper paint too.
Halfrauds also sell a twisted one for about £8, i did from the kink in the top rail backwards all 4 sides of every tube and it is just a bit small now to use again, and not being a "cup" it is easier to get into the tight corners with and also doesnt kick back so easily. will need another one to finish the front of the chassis off.
Oh, don't get me wrong- you need one (or a couple) of each!
The cup ones and the saucer ones!
Halfrauds sell the twisted saucer one (mine's lasted quite well) for £10 round here.
I found it was the saucer ones that jumper the most and as I've said elsewhere it was this one that jumped the grinder out of my hands!
James
The screwfix order just arrived so we now have 2 the tools. Tonight i think i shall make stuff shiney!
I also ordered some smaller, finer drill brushes for doing the fiddly bits and get a smoother finish.
Mackie,
Do it outside (away from cars, windows etc.) as it'll cover everything in crap if you do it in your garage.
Bear in mind you drive will rust if you leave metal all over it.
James
quote:
Originally posted by James
Bear in mind you drive will rust if you leave metal all over it.
James
Unfortunately yes.
The worst thing is my father pressure washed the drive in the spring so all the grindings that I never bothered to sweep up have rusted and given most
of the nice clean drive a nice brown look.
Another thing to watch out for is the 'metal powder' that seems to come off when grinding. This settles on everything (newly pained white
window sills, frames and garage door being favourite) and then rusts aswell.
Really goes down well that does!
James
also never cut/grind with an angle grinder so the sparks hit glass as the hot sparks melt into the surface and then rust.
Tim
quote:
Originally posted by timf
also never cut/grind with an angle grinder so the sparks hit glass as the hot sparks melt into the surface and then rust.
Tim
What the hell were you doing grinding stuff in the bathroom?!
i think i read he had it all in the garage, so he wasnt really grinding in the bathroom! i've made a proper mess of the drive myself, stains everywhere...
Ours is crazy paving so does a fairly good job of looking a mess already
quote:
Originally posted by mackie
What the hell were you doing grinding stuff in the bathroom?!
Think I found someone who has the rocking-horse-poo-rare Cortina "split the caliper" O-rings - for 80p
Me:
quote:
Also, can you supply parts for Cortina front calipers (type 16 I think)?
I know that normal piston seals are available but I would like to find a
source for the bolts and O-ring that I understand I need if I want to
split the caliper.
(I'd like to split it so I can better clean and paint it)
quote:
The M16 caliper repair kits are available but do not contain the 'o' ring
that you require but we do have some of those at a massive 80p each and you
will need 1 per caliper.The bolts we do not have as they are a special
tensile bolt which the tensile strength is marked on the top of the bolt
that is already in the caliper.We can also supply re-con calipers at ?31.56
each exchange to save you getting your hands dirty
Delivery if reqd ?6.00 next day with ups excluding saturdays at ?27.00
All the above prices quoted are subject to VAT.
Any more information please ring me on 01254 695695
As I said, get 'em from Darren:
http://www.gtscougar.freeserve.co.uk/brakes.htm
James
Brakes int. do recon kits for £3.80 + vat each side, and they do the split-caliper O-rings which I don't see on darren's site..
am I missing something?
I ordered 2x cortina front caliper recon kits, 2x sierra 4x4 rear caliper recon kits, new discs for all, new bleed nipples for all, and the cortina
split-caliper O-rings. £6 delivery made it £81.
Very friendly and helpful service, I can reccomend them. Cheers James for alerting me to their existence.
[Edited on 7/11/03 by blueshift]
Some of the pics on here have really nicely painted diffs. the diffs are a real bitch to get prepared for painting because of all the reinforcing ribs. am i better getting it shot/bead blasted?
By the way, on the subject of splitting cortina calipers, I went to ford parts department to try and find some replacement bolts for this operation,
and apparently they have never sold them.
Given that and the appearance of the bolts (no waisted section, don't look like fancy stretch bolts), I think the originals are reusable.
And the o-rings look perfect in ours too... But you can get them from brakeparts.co.uk.
Blueshift;
Ford have never stocked the bolt because Girling wouldn't supply it as a spare part. They argued that if they didn't supply the bolt then
no-one could split the caliper (as new bolts were recommended).
The bolt is designed to stretch at a pre-determined torque level. The strain energy stored in the bolt (by the stretching) then stops the bolt from
loosening due to the vibration from the road wheel.
Used bolts will be stretched and should not be used - brakes are safety critical after all. Is it really worth the risk? Girling didn't think so.
surely a simple bit of drilling and lockwiring would solve this problem?
Can't be done on a 'mass production' basis. Calipers are built in <1 minute total cycle time at our factory.
Doesn't guarantee adequate clamp load on the seal. You will only realise that you didn't do it up properly when you put your foot on the
pedal.
Lock wire will fatigue due to the same vibration. Then the bolt will come undone! Aircraft use lock wire but all bolts and fastenings are checked
regularly. These bolts are NEVER checked for tightness after the caliper leaves the manufacturer.
But you can try it if you want
so begs the question when i put my m16 calipers back together with my new bolts that came with the spacer kit what torque should they be done upto to
ensure the bolts are correctly stretched!
Ned.
Hi Ned,
If you have the same spec' bolts as were originally fitted by Girling then they should be tightened to 75/95 Nm (that's 70/55
lbf.ft).
I stress (no pun intended) that this is only applicable IF you have the same spec bolts as were fitted originally.
Jag,
they were as supplied by rally design in the kit. will give it a go.
cheers,
Ned.
Crapsticks. JAG, do you know the specs for the bolts? We have them out so can take dimensions off them, but can't tell what tensile rating they
would be or if they're some fancy alloy.
I wonder if ned's people would supply just the bolts..
blueshift,
I doubt rally design would sell the bolts separately as they're longer than standard for the spacer to fit the capri vented discs. maybe worth
asking anyway, afterall what do i know!
Ned.
OK. I have looked up the spec of the bolts - but it's not good news.
Seems that the guys designed their own bolts specifically for this purpose. No grade is specified just a material - which is useless for judging the
final strength of the finished part. Only other bit of info I have is that the threads are rolled rather than cut - for obvious reasons.
Last bit of info; I didn't notice originally but in the four bolts per caliper there are two different sizes.
The largest (7/16 x 20UNF - 2A) should be 95/75 Nm.
The smaller (3/8 x 24UNF - 2A) should be 68/54 Nm.
Hope that helps.
ARP do these sizes maybe worth a call to the uk importers as they are rated to 170,000 psi
Thanks JAG. sigh.
I'll go and take some stress out on our sierra calipers, de-rust them - again. That's what I get for leaving them in the garage for a week
after de-rusting, apparently. I think the bores have rusted slightly too.
bollocks.
Well lockwire and check regularly, this will provide a visual check which will be quick and easy, if anything looks out of place then re torque to
specified torque.
Or using a scribe or a permanent marker mark the head and the calliper to again provide a quick and effective checking method.
I guess the moral here is CHECK REGULARLY
(im a guilty party, i have split my callipers about 3 times and never renewed the bolts and to be honest never torqued them to the correct spec either
and have done many '000 miles on them without problems)
[Edited on 26/11/03 by colmaccoll]
As have many others I think. It's not a difficult job and I guess using some for of thread locking goo will help too.
Hi,
What about using Aerotight (or Stiff Nuts if you prefer). I remember Mark Evans using those on A Plane is Born or A Chopper is Born. Use those with
loctite and locking wire and I think that should cover it...
This blackart stuff is a bit much and I tend to agree with you Syd that common sense is work ten times its weight in blackart!
Here's a quote from this (http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/special_nuts.htm) website regarding Aerotight nuts:
"They are an all steel construction and so are suitable for high temperature applications such as engine manifolds etc. These nuts give excellent
resistance to loosening and are effective in even the highest vibration application. Although more costly than Nylocs, an important feature of
Aerotight nuts is that they are re-useable many times over."
Cheers,
Craig.
If aerotight are nuts only, not bolts, that wouldn't help.. cortina caliper bolts screw into threads in the calipers themselves.
I am in two minds about this situation.. on the one hand I can't imagine the calipers coming apart or leaking catastrophically if we torque them
up properly with high temp locking compound..
.. but on the other hand, it's the front brakes, really not somewhere we should be making guesses and hoping for the best
Well spotted Blueshift...Doh!
I just assumed that the bolts went all the way through and had nuts on them...
Yes I agree with you that it is not an area to mess with. However, who's to say that the previous owner(s) of the calipers that we currently own
used the correct bolts or for that matter the correct o-ring seal?
My feeling is that I'd rather buy some high quality 12.9ton socket cap bolts of my own and fit them with some high temp locking compound and wire
them to the calipers.
Cheers,
Craig.
This whole thread kinda makes me glad i've got Sierra claw type single piston calipers, no splitting involved
I think that you should all be 'OK' if you replace with 12.9 cap head bolts, torqued up properley with thread lock - use locking wire if you
want to be doubly sure.
Most of all keep an eye on them and check at each MOT/Service or whatever.
I doubt you will have any trouble.
timf, do you know who the uk dealers for ARP bolts are?
Or anyone for that matter. I take it if I specified the details that JAG posted above they'd know what I was talking about...
mackie,
i'm sure rally design (raldes.co.uk) stock arp bolts, maybe worth a call...
Ned.
Guys,
Please don't think this is a strength issue.
It's more about fatigue (due to pressure cycling) and vibration. Vibration alone can kill just about anything.
Hence my comment about checking the caliper/bolt integrity on a regular basis.
thanks guys, just to clarify on torque (syd? jag?) if we torque the bolts to their stated limits, if that's higher than specified for the caliper
bolts might we risk overstressing / damaging / ripping the threads out of the caliper?
Alternatively if we only torque them to the spec (as JAG posted before) might the bolts not be in their elastic range and thus suffer from vibration
loosening / fatigue?
I'm inclined to torque to the bolt limit and doubt it will harm the caliper.. but just wanted to check.
thanks guys.. I don't know what we'd do without this forum. probably either give up, spend a lot more money or die from failed brakes