I am re-doing my rear suspension at the minute.

I have seen some piccies of the older westfields that had the coilover mounted on what seems to be the bolt for the top trailing arm.

Is that right?

would an 8.8 bolt say half inch or so be strong enough to go through the top trailing arm and the coilover and be unsupported at one end?

Has anyone done this?

your right, on my pre lit westy it uses a 7/16 x 4 inch bolt, to secure the top trailing arm and shock absorber to the axle. hope this helps.

That's also how it's done on my Stuart Taylor Locost. It's a 12mm diameter bolt.

I haven't checked recently but it was holding up fine last time I looked - maybe 18 months ago.

(goes away to check!!)

[Edited on 19/9/07 by JAG]

Cheers chaps.
Ive had a measure and it seems that both the trailing arm bush and the coilover bush are 1/2 inch. I can get bolts that size that are 8.8.

next question would be does the threadlength matter? I would probably end up with something sitting on threads instead of the smooth bolt part?

It is not good engineering practice to use bolts in single shear, but will obviously work given sufficient diameter and material grade (the bottom attachment for my front coilovers is single shear, and it is proving difficult to design a solution). I would not, however, apply a shear load to a threaded section. Better to get a bolt with the correct shank length and remove any excess threads.

Hope this helps,

Dom.

Had a measure and a look at nimrick. I should be able to get some longer bolts and cut the threaded part down to suit.

You think thats bad. The rear trailing arms on AX's/Saxo's/306's/206's/106's are only really held on by 1, YES 1, 8mm bolt.

quote:

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Originally posted by jollygreengiant
You think thats bad. The rear trailing arms on AX's/Saxo's/306's/206's/106's are only really held on by 1, YES 1, 8mm bolt.

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Sorry what, one single M8 bolt in shear holds each corner of a Peugeot/Citroen up ? Do behave

look at lots of vans - they have their shock's held on in single shear. Its not good practice, but lots of people do it & it works (me included - but my car has never been driven yet).

Look at the shocks on all non-hydroelastic classic minis ever made.

Fronts for both upper and lower mounts, rears just the bottom.

Though for non coil over shocks it isn't such a big deal as the loads are much smaller.

i think the rear shocker on landrovers are also held on the same way (if i get what you mean correctly).

I have made up some extra brakets.
Idea being they will go on the free end of the bolt. The're not huge but I thought it would be better to have something there to attach to.

I think that should stop the end of the bolt being able to move.
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yep, that's fine

If the bracket (where the tread is in) is really thick about 15 mm or so, the you could do this in single shear.

But how you planning now is better.

grtz

I put the brakets on and threw the rear end together. It is sitting at the angle as there are no bushes in the trailing arms.
I think it looks OK. Maybe slightly lower than it was before but not by much.
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Inside pic
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With proposed bracket in place. I also spotted I have put the hole to low. Doh.

Note the use of industrial plasticine.

If I do put the bracket on the end will the whole lot tighten up ok?
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Made a start on re-doing the front suspension today.
Here's a before pic
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And a current pic

Plan is to remake the front bones and jig the front brakets.
I think the guy who made the chassis did this by eye!

I'm also going to go over a few bad welds and hopefully chop the 'ears' out of the frame so the side panels can be smoother.

[Edited on 21/9/07 by emsfactory]
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