I know it's been covered before but....
I'm in the process of swapping my English axle for an Atlas one. The English had drums with the associated handbrake but the Atlas has some sort of disc conversion. The calipers and discs look like Mk3 Escort fronts. And here lies the problem. I need the car back on the road ASAP as the PPC£999 Challenge is a few days away and it's entered! The quickest way to get the car ready is to weld on the brackets, bolt the axle in and simply connect the excisting pipework between the car and axle. But that leaves no handbrake.
Do I:

1. Swap all the drum brakes across, and extend the handbrake linkage between the two back plates?
   
2. Connect the brakes as it is and worry about the handbrake for the next MoT?
   
3. Repipe to the back of the car and fit a hydraulic handbrake?
   
4. Find some calipers with handbrake gubbins and make up new cables?
   
5. Weld some loops to the back of each pad and make my own handbrake mechanism?
   

i'd fashion a mechanical handbrake to lock the prop......like a screwdriver through the UJ, but only if it's required for the 999 challenge.

if not, i'd leave it and sort something for next MOT.

tom

You could put in a line lock. Basically a ball valve. You pres the footbrake hard and turn the valve on. the pressure behind the valve keeps the brakes on.Not suitable for on road really but it'll get you going for a track day/off road
LIKE THIS ONE

If you get stopped by traffic and they find a line lock you won't be a happy bunny.

Quickest way to get the car ready is put the English back in.

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If you get stopped by traffic and they find a line lock you won't be a happy bunny.

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Not suitable for on road really but it'll get you going for a track day/off road

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The English axle has a popped diff. And it's the third one it's popped!
I can get hold of a needle valve to use as a line lock but as it's not road legal and not MoTable, I'll just carry a brick around with me until I find a pair of calipers that have a handbrake mechanism on them!

I hope you have a suitable bias valve, front callipers used on the rear will lock the wheels for a pass time otherwise! The pedal may also have rather a lot of travel.

The pads in the rear calipers look to have been butchered so the friction material is about an inch wide. It's a common trick with the rally boys apparently!

I think locking the rear wheels is the least of Owelly's problems (have you seen his Magenta? )

I would just get it going for now and pick up some handbrake calipers later. Is Moose still in action? Would he have some to swap for toast?

Moose is still very much in action but his calipers (I'm thinkingf Granada?) would probably cost more than my house.