well this is a little off topic but I am wanting to make a glass hood for my merkur but am worried of bonding a mold to it. I have laid glass before for repairs and such but never made a mold before. how gloosy does it need to be? will fresh paint cured well with a good buffing work followed with parting wax?

nick

Ideally as glossy as possible.
The paint must be cured REALLY REALLY REALLY well (you get the point?)

3 coats of mold wax and then a coat of PVA would be my advice.

I'm molding right now so this advice is fresh....

http://www.desicodesign.com/meerkat/

Checkout "bodywork 2"

quote:

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Originally posted by Alan B

I'm molding right now

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I think Location.....Florida may be the giveaway........

Alan

Agree with your advice - would suggest however that you recommend it after demoulding:-) - just in case.

Merkurman,

Actually what Alan B says, I'd go along with, although Jim Dudley's Avon book suggests 5 coats of mould wax (dried and polished, followed by the PVA (polyvinyl alcohol).

Also, once you've made your mould, allow it to cure for at least two days, likewise when you take your "original" from your mould - don't demould too soon.

Would be worth (possibly) getting advice from suppliers.

I'll be in same boat soon - am making scuttle plug at present, and will be making bonnet sometime to - More pics tomorrow!!

Stu,

Believe Alan's an expat

ATB

Simon



[Edited on 16/12/02 by Simon]

Simon, I guess it depends which book you read or which wax you buy
The wax I use "Collinite mold release" recommends 3 coats....I'm sure they wouldn't hesitate to say 5 if though it was better.

Best advice....read the tin...

And yes I do try to speak UK English on UK boards....just forgot for a minute

And yes again, I am an ex-pat...been here 8 years..

since the hood needs a repaint I was going to DA it bare then shoot some self ectching primer on it then some lacquer and let it sit all winter. come spring I was going to buff it out and start on a mold. can I spray gelcoat out of a real cheap ass media sprayer? not even a cup gun but a all plastic deal for spraying chemicals unthinned. or what about a undercoating gun? mainly I am kinda poor and laying out $150 for a gun is kinda a bit of cash. I have heard of putting air ports in a mold to act as a air wedge from the middle of a surface, is that a route I should go? would a simple tube coming off and a blowgun with large rubber cone be enough or would I need a fitting o it?

trying to get into the glass bidness making some small parts for cars to help fund my schooling and hobby.


would wax/pva over textured interior trim parts not work? like a pillar covers and center consols? or would it need to be smoothed first?

nick

so basicly a repaint on the hood followed by a good color sand and compounding and it should be ready for wax? what would be the best way to set up a parting line for the edge of the hood? for the underside would I just need to buff it smooth and fill the channeling holes with some clay? I might be able to get a hood section off a mustang SVO (naca style duct) so if I made a glass hood for my xr4 then I could make a glass version of the scoop and bond it on right? and then make a second mold to make more of them.

so bascily I need ot pick up some wax/pva and get started on refinishing the hood? what works better for mold making poly or epoxy?

you got a email alan? the link doesn't work.

nick

Yep, it's meerkatman@desicodesign.com

A few answers:-

A good sanding and compounding...yes, ready for wax.

flanges?....I'd just extend the edges to about 1.5/2" so they can be trimmed back.

Blow offs...wouldn't bother with a hood. it should separate easily.

Mold?...I'd go with poly....epoxy is expensive...waste some poly first

Yes, textured materials can be covered...experiment first though.

Anything else just ask....