AdrianH
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| posted on 1/4/09 at 08:53 PM |
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Is it OK to join 8 mm copper tube for fuel lines?
I am struggling getting the copper fuel lines in place trying to do bends in situ and get around gearbox and diff.
I know it could be done if I take the engine etc back-out but that will be a big job. What is the consensus on joining the copper tube as you would
do for water pipe with a soldered coupler?
Is it permissible?
My other option is to run braided fuel line through the tunnel and fasten that at regular intervals.
I have two runs to do.
Cheers
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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omega0684
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| posted on 1/4/09 at 08:55 PM |
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as long as you use marked fuel pipe and fuel clips its fine.
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flak monkey
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| posted on 1/4/09 at 08:57 PM |
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Soldered joints will be fine as long as there are no pin holes.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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snapper
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| posted on 1/4/09 at 08:58 PM |
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As long as you do a good job it should be fine, however i don't know how the vibration would affect the joint or the presure if its fuel
injected.
You could use a hand pipe bender to help with the dificult bends or if you do solder joints then some rubber fuel pipe over the joint and clipped with
the proper pipe clips would be both leak and vibration proof.
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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AdrianH
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| posted on 1/4/09 at 09:15 PM |
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One of the things that surprised me was some lengths of fuel pipe from the donor sierra seemed to be plastic!!
The system is not injected so pressures are virtually none existent.
I do have a small hand held tube bender but the issue is getting a one piece length of pipe around every thing and in place to do the bends. Using
100 mm centers for the nylon clips to secure the fuel lines, or that is the plan so should be OK reducing vibration. I think I will try it
tomorrow.
Thanks for the answers
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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Antnicuk
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| posted on 1/4/09 at 09:16 PM |
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just use rubber fuel hose for the awkward bits, its what manufacturers do.
600 BHP per ton, Stylus Brought back from the dead! Turbo Rotary Powered!
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Danozeman
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| posted on 1/4/09 at 09:34 PM |
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I bent mine in situ. If you bend copper pipe alot it will work harden and it will be a pain to bend. Could this be why u are having trouble?
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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AdrianH
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| posted on 1/4/09 at 10:38 PM |
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Hi Dan. It is new copper pipe and not bending it in the same places repeatedly. Just have about 9 bends. Goes over drivers side bell housing,
crosses tunnel, drops down to floor , along bottom of tunnel passenger side, under diff to prop ring crosses back to drivers side, then out under diff
into wheel area then bend outward and up to where I can join with rubber tube to tank.
The convoluted route is to keep away from reversing switch and where the speedo cable will be. Also waning to keep the drivers side of tunnel clear
so that I can remove side panel and get to prop shaft and do any maintenance work from that side.
The carburetter is on the drivers side and so is the petrol tank supply and return.
It just a ball ache working with around 2.5 metres of tube in such a small area.
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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RoadkillUK
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| posted on 2/4/09 at 01:14 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Antnicuk
just use rubber fuel hose for the awkward bits, its what manufacturers do.
We did the same as above, used some rubber fuel hose, also good for replacing squashed pipe.
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
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AdrianH
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| posted on 2/4/09 at 06:28 AM |
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RoadkillUK
Did you flare out the 8 mm copper pipe when you joined against rubber, and if so how?
Cheers
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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designer
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| posted on 2/4/09 at 07:46 AM |
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I would not put a soldered joint on a copper fuel line.
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tomgregory2000
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| posted on 2/4/09 at 08:07 AM |
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Compression joints as used on gas fittings
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 2/4/09 at 09:34 AM |
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You don't need to flare the end of the copper pipe, just solder an olive on.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 2/4/09 at 11:10 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by designer
I would not put a soldered joint on a copper fuel line.
Why? (purely out of curiosity)
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 2/4/09 at 11:16 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by AdrianH
One of the things that surprised me was some lengths of fuel pipe from the donor sierra seemed to be plastic!!
Does anyone know of a source for this stuff?
I'm thinking of replacing my copper tube (8mm central-heating grade). I think that it's too thin and fragile, and was never intended for
use in the harsh vibrating environment used in a car. It also kinks and dents far to easily for my liking, especially considering that it runs along a
few inches from the propshaft!
I have used rubber pipe in the past - it got replaced when I spotted that it had perished badly after just 2 or 3 years of use. It's possible
that it wasn't a suitable grade for madern unleaded fuel, but now I'm wary of it.
I see 2 possible alternatives - 5/16" (8mm) kunifer brake tubing, which is very tough and has a respectable wall thickness.
Otherwise there's the manufacturer's type plastic tubing - if I could find it.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 2/4/09 at 05:36 PM |
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I originally used a plastic fuel pipe when I built my car as it was running a carb . I managed to get some from a mate who runs a hydraulics company .
It is now used as the fuel return for my injection system . Most modern cars seem to use plastic fuel pipes even the high pressure pipes.
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RoadkillUK
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| posted on 2/4/09 at 07:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by AdrianH
RoadkillUK
Did you flare out the 8 mm copper pipe when you joined against rubber, and if so how?
Cheers
Adrian
Hi, nope we didn't do anything with the end other than clean it. The copper pipe will go into the rubber pipe as far as you like to push it.
We're running carbs so there's no real pressure, but I can't see it being a problem if there were pressure.
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
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AdrianH
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| posted on 2/4/09 at 10:26 PM |
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OK thanks again for the responses,
I am going for a soldered joint in the tube, the clips are every 100 mm apart so will keep it firm, I have plenty of flux and extra solder to ensure
I get good capillary action.
Hope to get this task finished soon as it is driving me nuts working in the cramped space. Certainly is one of the jobs that should be done before
the engine, gearbox and diff go in place.
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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