Dangle_kt
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 01:01 PM |
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Leaking English Axle - clever ideas needed!
SVA is in a few weeks, and i have just spotted an oil leak on my diff.
I fitted a new diff the other month, with new gasket etc. my mate wanted to help with the car so I thought he couldnt do any harm doing up the nuts
which are on the studs holding the diff in. There are about 8 I think.
He does fine until I hear, "opps".
He snapped the bottom stud clean off! 
It had to be the BOTTOM stud didn't it...
I was hoping with the others done up tight, and the new gasket in place it wouldn;t leak.
Well I was wrong, its got a very slow leak, which I can only imagine will get worse when its being driven due to heat etc.
I don't have time to take the diff apart, nor the skill to drill and tap the stud whilst lying on my back in situ...so I'm looking for
clever options.
Is there some type of sealant I could smear over the leak? any other helpful advice?
Thanks
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jabbahutt
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 01:12 PM |
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Frost do an oil stick that you rub liberally into the site of a leak and they recon it'll do the job until you get time to sort it properly.
don't know if it works but might be worth a look.
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blakep82
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 01:12 PM |
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hmm, not sure if its a 'good idea' but stick some chemical metal epoxy resin type stuff in that area?
not sure what its like for taking it apart to fix later though
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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02GF74
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 01:13 PM |
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sounds like you are desparate - then give this a shot:
Oyltite Stik
not used it myself as I would repair but it says:
Oyltite Stik stops leaks without rebuilding. This remarkable product will stop leaks at gasket flanges, joints, rivet holes etc. until the next
rebuild. Simply rub the Oyltite Stik vigorously into the leak area until forced into cracks and it will dry to prevent petrol, oil and water leaks.
Can also be used as a thread sealer on assembly work.
For low pressure up to 15 PSI (1BAR).
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mookaloid
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 01:15 PM |
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I feel for you there mate 
I can only suggest trying to weld a nut on to the end of the sheared stud with the mig. Not sure if this is an option as it would depend on how far
down the hole the break is.
Good luck
Cheers
Mark
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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r1_pete
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 01:15 PM |
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How tight has he done those nuts up? chances are he's distorted the pressed flange on the axle too.
I would try dismantling it and cleaning all the faces, make up a gasket from thicker gasket paper than the original, and assemble it with a smear of
Wellseal on both metal faces and each steel face. If the sealant oozes out all round it will seal, but dont overtighten the nuts.
Now things are coated in oil there is nothing I know of you could use without a stripdown.
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splitrivet
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 01:28 PM |
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Take the cover off, If a bit of the studs still showing remove it with small stillsons, use Silicon gasket all round the joint faces, job done.
You've got Bob Hope of sealing it from the outside.
Lastly give your buddy a slap and buy a torque wrench.
Cheers,
Bob
[Edited on 14/4/09 by splitrivet]
[Edited on 14/4/09 by splitrivet]
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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britishtrident
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 02:16 PM |
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Easy guys these studs are pushed in from the back like wheel studs -- when you look at them them closely they look exactly minature English axle
wheel studs.
The thread is most likely 5/16" UNF
Drilling it out and re-tapping won't work because the english axle case is made of very thin sheet metal.
If forcing leak sealer into the joint dosen't work
Best short term solution is to draw the shafts slacken the nuts holding the diff carrier in place. Draw the diffcarrier forwards 8 or 10 mm and run a
thin bead of instant gasket round the joint. Allow the silicone to semi-cure then bolt up.
In the longer tem it should be possible to fix properly --- one solution would be an 8mm countersunk rivnut..
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02GF74
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 02:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
these studs are pushed in from the back like wheel studs
In the longer tem it should be possible to fix properly --- one solution would be an 8mm countersunk rivnut..
well, I didn't know that.
can the stud not be tapped back in with a drift and removed? Or is the case so thin it will bend/distort?
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cjtheman
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 04:33 PM |
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hi
dont worry about it
i had the same a week before sva couldn't get the seal quick enough to do the job so took it with oil leak to sva
mr sva man said you have oil leak you had better get it done but then told me its not a fail
so i would say make sure the car is finished first so you can get it there worry about it later
my axle is in the shed as we speak
cheers
colin
wanted
sunny weather
sva pass 12/6/09
taxed 16/6/09
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 07:20 PM |
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Thanks guys, a couple of interesting ideas there!
Didn't know they were pressed into the body, or that I couldn;t get them out. I would have hours of fun with my stud remover!! 
I;d really prefer to avoid removing the diff if possible, at least until after I'm on the road!
Great help as always.
I'll order a stick of that oil seal stuff, and if that fails I'll try some instant gasket after pulling the diff off a bit as described,
shame it will cover me in stinky oil!
Thanks
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