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Author: Subject: Brakes at track day are poo
MikeRJ

posted on 3/4/12 at 10:25 PM Reply With Quote
Note that properly good brake pads are not cheap - if you are used to spending £30 on a set of pads for your tin top, then spending well over £100 on a set of good pads may come as a shock.

FWIW I really rate Ferrodo DS2500 and DS3000, loads of initial bite and they just don't seem to drop off significantly even at very high temperatures. Recently a friend with a Civic rally car had some brake issues shortly before a 2 day event, and ended up swapping the brakes with his road car which was a bog standard Civic with small discs and DS2500 pads. The brakes were stinking every time he came back to the service area, and the discs were glowing dark red but he said it still had a perfect pedal and they were pulling the car down with no problems.

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jeffw

posted on 4/4/12 at 05:22 AM Reply With Quote
Get a decent fluid, like this

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-894-motul-rbf-600-factory-line-racing-brake-fluid.aspx

and a decent set of pads. Ferodo DS2500, Mintex 1144, Hawk, Pagid etc are all good brands so find come that fit and try them. Mintex 1144 work well on a light car but I prefer Hawk now days.






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britishtrident

posted on 4/4/12 at 07:34 AM Reply With Quote
There is no point in changing the fluid type unless the fluid is boiling.
Fluid boiling is easy to spot the pedal travel very suddenly increases by a very large margin.

All conventional brake fluids (except DOT 5.0 which is Silicone based) absorb moisture from the atmosphere, the water content of the fluid dramatically lowers the boiling point of the fluid. As a rule of thumb in service a DOT 5.1 fluid will absorb about 0.5% of moisture per year.


Any water contained in the fluid will boil long before the fluid does. For this reason normal brake DOT 5.1 fluids should be changed every 2 years.

Most competition fluids arer only rated as meeting DOT 4 although they have a dry boiling point well in excess of DOT 5.1 the reason is high dry boiling point competition brake fluids are generally much more hygroscopic than normal brake fluid so require much more frequent fluid changes.

On the chart below the wet boiling points are quoted at 2.5% moisture content.
Dry boiling point Wet boiling point
DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) 155 °C (311 °F)
DOT 5.1 270 °C (518 °F) 190 °C (374 °F)

[Edited on 4/4/12 by britishtrident]





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x_flow57

posted on 4/4/12 at 09:55 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by skydivepaul
mintex 1144 +1
used them on track days, hillclimbs & sprints.

good bite when cold and will stand up to a lot of abuse before they fade

avoid the red stuff pads



+1

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Fizzer

posted on 6/4/12 at 05:38 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jeffw
Get a decent fluid, like this

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-894-motul-rbf-600-factory-line-racing-brake-fluid.aspx

and a decent set of pads. Ferodo DS2500, Mintex 1144, Hawk, Pagid etc are all good brands so find come that fit and try them. Mintex 1144 work well on a light car but I prefer Hawk now days.


+1 - works for me...

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Fizzer

posted on 6/4/12 at 05:39 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Fizzer
quote:
Originally posted by jeffw
Get a decent fluid, like this

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-894-motul-rbf-600-factory-line-racing-brake-fluid.aspx

and a decent set of pads. Ferodo DS2500, Mintex 1144, Hawk, Pagid etc are all good brands so find come that fit and try them. Mintex 1144 work well on a light car but I prefer Hawk now days.


+1 - works for me...


PS - listen to Jeff, his car goes REALLY fast now so NEEDS good brakes

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