aka Keith
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| posted on 1/6/13 at 07:23 PM |
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how to remove top ball joint/drag link?
My MK has its MOT relatively soon, and I need to replace the top drag link/ball joint on the front suspension. I have removed the wheel but am now
stuck, is there an idiots goide to how you remove the top ball joint?
Cheers
Craig
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tilly819
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| posted on 1/6/13 at 07:37 PM |
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If you have no intention of refitting the one you are removing then
one of these
http://www.screwfix.com/p/laser-fork-ball-joint-separator-19mm/19907?kpid=19907&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales
%20tracking%20url&gclid=CNOblsvMw7cCFeXItAod5w0A-g
and one of these
http://www.silverdoctors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/mario.jpg
Tilly
F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne www.youtube.com/handmadeextreme
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britishtrident
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| posted on 1/6/13 at 07:58 PM |
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It possible to do without the special tool but as beginner I would advise you invest in a ball joint splitter - long handle wedge type are the most
suitable for this job.
Do an Ebay search on ---- Silverline 300 x 20mm Ball Joint Separator
This is the quick and easy way -- not doing a proper race car style geometry adjustment but it should help you get the job done.
Before removing the ball joint (Transit drag ink) slacken the half locking nut on the thread shank by a couple of turns, then remove the nyloc nut
on the balljoint tapered pi..
The hammer the wedge of the tool between the ball joint pin and the upright (swivlw hub) it should come out with a bang.
Count the number of turns as you unscrew the shank of the ball joint from the wishbone transfer the locking half nut nut over the screw
the new balljoint into the wishbone the same number of turns . On the new balljoint wipe any gease or oil off the tapered pin and make
sure the hole it goes into is dirt free before you push it home. Now apply while light downward pressure to force the tapered part into its hole
fit the nut and (at this stage) lightly tighten it enough to pull fully hom e and snug.
Now replace the wheel drop the car off the jack and push it bak and forwards a metre or so -- look the front wheels with the steering straight
ahead if the wheel look approximately the same angle to the road surface the camber angle is close enough for the vehicle to be safe to drive. If
the angle of the wheel to the road surface dosen't look right get back to us and we will help you set the camber.
Now you can tighten the two nuts up making sure the top ball joint is sitting at a sensible angle not twisted relative to the wishbone --- the nuts
need to be tight but don't overdo it.
After a short run as you are a novice mechanic it would be be best to check the nuts for tightness again.
[Edited on 1/6/13 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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jacko
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| posted on 1/6/13 at 08:12 PM |
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On the indy you can remove the tube that the ball joint bolts though by removing the 12mm pinch bolt then unscrew the ball joint from the wish bone /
that way you can undo the ball joint from inside the tube with a socket and punch the joint out with a punch
Some times there is a second bolt holding the tube in place SVA / IVA requirement
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aka Keith
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| posted on 2/6/13 at 09:07 AM |
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Many thanks all,
Measured the disance between the wishbone thread and the middle of the old drag link a coupld of times, undid the bolt in the hub, and knocked the old
drag link out. popped in the new drag link, threaded it in till gap between middle of ball joint and wishbone was as before and bolted it all back
together. jobs a good un.
many thanks
Cheers
Craig
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jacko
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| posted on 2/6/13 at 09:10 AM |
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Nice one not to bad a job
Now can you come and put my rear axle back in for me  
Jacko
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