planetester
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 08:15 PM |
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Help!!!! Disaster
Because I'm restricted to quite a small single garage, Ive been fitting parts & then removing them out of the way & one day I'll
put them all together, This week I've been assembling the front suspension to find that there is play in one of the wheel bearings, tightening
up the bearing did not improve it, having pulld it apart I find that at some time in the cortinas life the inner bearing must have seized & the
inner race has worn about .003" off the stub axle, this does not sound much but it would'nt even pass an mot, so no chance for the sva,
Has anyone out there got a way of building the stub axle up again or do I have to find another cortina
thanks in advance
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 08:25 PM |
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Hi, if the case hardening hasn't worn through it may?? be possible to get a machine shop to knurl the worn section. This increases the outside
diameter. If you are lucky it may salvage your stub axle. A somewhat less professional way to do it is to go round the offending part using a dot
punch, this has the same effect and take about 2 minutes, Hope this helps. Rusty.
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gazza285
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 08:28 PM |
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Usual way is to build up the shaft with weld and then remachine the mounting surface, or if you are bodging, use a shim to fill the gap.
The stub axle should not be case hardened as it only carries the inner bearing race, it is not part of the bearing.
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planetester
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 09:15 PM |
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I thought about the center punch but its a real nono in the aircraft industry, Ive also thought about running some braize in the area & turning it
down to the right diameter, dont know how durable that would be,
I'm worried that if I shim it, the shim may come out & start floating around in the hub & into the bearing
keep the ideas coming
thanks agin
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gazza285
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 09:27 PM |
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The shim, if correctly fitted, will not be able to come out. It is up against the bearing mounting face at the rear and the notched washer will hold
it in at the front. Assuming you have used the correct thickness of shim it should be held in with the interference as well.
I think shimming would be the easiest way, I should imagine getting a four jaw chuck set up right for the machining would be a pain in the arse.
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macspeedy
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 09:27 PM |
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what is stopping you replacing the wheel bearing seems logical a local garage would help..
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gazza285
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 09:29 PM |
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It is the bearing mounting that is worn not the bearing.
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planetester
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 09:46 PM |
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Hi Gazza, I wasnt thinking of running the shin all the way to the outer bearing, I thought of putting it radialy, just in the area of the rear bearing
where the damage ig, maybe hold it in with one of these modern loctites,
what do you think
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andyps
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 09:57 PM |
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I think Loctite (or someone similar) make a product called 'bearing fit' which is used by many companies to mount bearings and remove any
play.
If it is the shoulder supporting the bearing using a shim is fine, if it is the shaft diameter you need to sleeve it which means skimming it down
first.
Hope this helps
Andy
An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less
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gazza285
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 10:00 PM |
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My mistake, you mean the larger of the two bearings. Easier to fit in a lathe then. I'd recommend building the shaft up everytime then, using
either mig or (better) arc welding, and then machining back to size. I'd say brazing is a not starter due to the mass of metal you would have to
heat up before applying the braze. Most decent engineering companies will be able to do this for you, but don't let them charge you a fortune as
there's probably about half an hours work here.
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planetester
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 10:08 PM |
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Thanks Gazza, Ive been looking at the upright & there is a center on the end of the axle & one at the back, so turning between centers is
easy, I'll have to find someone with a lathe with a big enough throw.
thanks again
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 08:01 AM |
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How about going along to your local bearing shop and finding a suitable replacement with a smaller i/d ?
it would be far more favourable to machine off a SMALL amount off the stub, in order to get a different bearing to fit, than trying to build it up
again.
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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James
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 09:26 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Syd Bridge
This should solve most problems.
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And if it doesn't.... well, after all, it's only your front wheel that will fall off!   
Helpful as ever,
James
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timf
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 10:05 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by James
quote:
Originally posted by Syd Bridge
This should solve most problems.
.
And if it doesn't.... well, after all, it's only your front wheel that will fall off!
Helpful as ever,
James
hate to say it but in this case syd is correct.
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TL
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 12:20 PM |
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i'm with the Loctite boys on this one. Off the top of my head I think it's Loctite 601 bearing retainer you need. It's made for the
job."bear in" mind (pardon the pun) that if/when you need to remove the inner race at a later date, it will be more difficult, as
it's stuck on.
Cheers,
Terry
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timf
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 12:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Syd Bridge
And Tim, why do you Hate to say I'm correct? Moreover, why would you LIKE to say I'm wrong? Just out of interest. Just because I see
things differently to others, doesn't mean I'm wrong, or right. Just different. I've also been doing this stuff for most of my 50+
years, so a little bit of experience comes into it.
Cheers,
Syd.
[Edited on 14/10/04 by Syd Bridge]
not ment as taken but as hate to agree with you on this one.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 12:29 PM |
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I've used Loctite 601 for lots of work - it actually requires a thou or two clearance, otherwise all the glue gets forced out of the
joint. If the surface is graunched but still has enough high points to locate the bearing then it might be a solution - it'll deal with 2-3 thou
'slack' everywhere else.
As for getting it off again afterwards - juducious use of a gas torch will break the bond. Not red-hot, just 'king hot. Alternatively, notch
both sides of the bearing race with an angle grinder, rotate 90 degrees and simultaneously hit both sides with a pair of hammers. Wrap the work in
something, as the shrapnel has to be seen to be believed!
rgds,
David
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 01:11 PM |
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my lathe could throw an upright between centres easily but its broken at the mo, i would happily have done it for you
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planetester
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 04:38 PM |
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Thanks again all, Ive Found someone with a big enough lathe,
he is going to turn down the affending area, make a sleeve & retain it with high strength locktite( not found the number yet but its green) &
then he will turn it down to the original diameter.
I'm happy with this as saves the problems of getting the bearing off later & all the arguments as to if applying heat will damage it
thanks all
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