pewe
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| posted on 6/8/13 at 07:04 PM |
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Jammed/ FUBAR pressure switch - help
Pre MOT I've dragged the F27 out of the garage for a quick once-over.
Everything seems to be working OK but no brake lights.
I've tracked this down to the fact the in-line brake pressure switch isn't working.
I've tried given it a few sharp taps with a hammer and loosened it off but still not working.
Apart from the obvious of fitting a new one any suggestions for a quick fix?
Are they heat sensitive? It's mounted not too far from the exhaust pipes and I imagine it could get pretty hot.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers, Pewe10 
Nice one, Bob vv I'll give it a try. Ta, P.
[Edited on 6/8/13 by pewe]
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bob
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| posted on 6/8/13 at 07:48 PM |
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Air in system.
I had the same problem, fine after a quick bleed.
Start with furthest away from M/C
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ElmrPhD
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| posted on 6/8/13 at 10:05 PM |
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Especially if the switch is mounted wires up, the air bubble seems to be designed in.
Good luck bleeding it out.
You'll get a firmer pedal, too!
Steve, in the NLs
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/8/13 at 07:04 AM |
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Nothing to do with air in the system ---- pressure is pressure.
The brakes on our type of cars are working at about 1/3 the hydraulic pressure of tin tops (about 500psi as opposed to 1500psi) and currently
available switches are designed to workat the higher pressures.
Best course of action is to fit a mechanical operated switch wired in parallel with the existing switch.
http://www.completeautomobilist.com/products/415-pull-brake-switch
http://www.completeautomobilist.com/products/415a-brake-switch-2
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-124SA-Brake-Light-Switch-for-Triumph-TR-Mini-Reliant-SD1-SMB421-134529-/221195077814?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts
_SM&hash=item33804108b6
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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pewe
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| posted on 7/8/13 at 09:04 AM |
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Thanks for the replies, guys.
Think I'll take the route suggested by BT ^ - more because it doesn't involve bleeding the brakes and somewhere I've a m/cycle pull
switch somewhere in stock - now if I can only find it........
Cheers, Pewe10
BT vv - full SP as ever - thanks.
You should write a book "Trade Tricks for the DIY Enthusiast" 
[Edited on 7/8/13 by pewe]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/8/13 at 09:41 AM |
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If you ever need to change a hydraulic operated brake light switch it is really simple no major bleeding involved.
Before removing the switch simply somebody to put light pressure on the brake pedal, cover the switch with a cloth to catch the fluid and
gradually undo it, the pedal will go to the floor, and if it is held down to the floor the switch can be changed. Once the switch is semi tight
the pedal can be brought up s-l-o-w-l-y.
Then if light pressure is again applied to pedal the switch can be slackened slightly and any tiny amount of air trapped will bleed out and the
switch fully tightened when the pedal reaches the floor and is held down.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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pewe
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| posted on 8/8/13 at 02:57 PM |
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BT spot on with the technique.
Fitted new switch and.......... Brake Lights now work.
Being enquiring by nature I dismantled the old switch by hacking off the crimped over flange - verdigris on the copper activating pad and corrosion on
the steel(?) contacts. Why do they mix metals?? I know cost!
Now to check the weather before booking the MOT.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Cheers, Pewe10
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