Jenko
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| posted on 20/4/14 at 07:04 AM |
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Alloy wheel nuts?
Without really thinking too much about it, I bought myself a nice set of anodised alloy wheel nuts........am I safe to assume there are no inherent
issues with using said alloy nuts?.
Ta...Paul.
MY BLOG - http://westfieldv8.blogspot.co.uk/
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blakep82
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| posted on 20/4/14 at 07:28 AM |
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No worse than alloy hubs I'd have thought?
Legends race cars use alloy tube, threaded for rod ends, as axle link bars, so I'd think they'd be well up to it myself
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 20/4/14 at 08:12 AM |
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Should be fine. But need to use a torque wrench to do them up.
Personally would stick to steel, its the usual weight saving v "what if" situation.plus I would be interested in what grade of ali was
being used. I suspect most are really unsuitable, if the seller cannot confirm, definitely avoid.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 20/4/14 at 08:12 AM |
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I have seen on some tintop forums numerous instances where they have backed off and left the wheel loose, or have caused issues on the way out, but I
don't know whether that's because they're alloy or whether they were being used wrong.
For example, thirty seconds on the MX5 forum got me this thread.
[Edited on 20/4/14 by Slimy38]
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daniel mason
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| posted on 20/4/14 at 08:15 AM |
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theres a possibility the 2 different metals (alloy nut,steel wheel stud) can rust together but with a small amount of grease or similar there should
be no real issue.especially with 4 studs at a reasonable torque (radical suggest 70 lb/ft
mine has a 70mm centre locking alloy nut which can get stuck on badly if not greased up and slackened off regularly. but these are tightended to 200
lb/ft
[Edited on 20/4/14 by daniel mason]
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 20/4/14 at 10:20 AM |
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The drift boys have had quite a few failings. Probably don't like the side loads they put on them. Usually stripping the threads out of the
alloy nut.
Ben
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britishtrident
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| posted on 20/4/14 at 10:27 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
theres a possibility the 2 different metals (alloy nut,steel wheel stud) can rust together but with a small amount of grease or similar there should
be no real issue.especially with 4 studs at a reasonable torque (radical suggest 70 lb/ft
mine has a 70mm centre locking alloy nut which can get stuck on badly if not greased up and slackened off regularly. but these are tightended to 200
lb/ft
[Edited on 20/4/14 by daniel mason]
Try using aluminium-graphite anti-seize compound instead, it is very good at preventing alloy wheels seizing on, it also works a treat on exhaust
joints.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 20/4/14 at 10:33 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jenko
Without really thinking too much about it, I bought myself a nice set of anodised alloy wheel nuts........am I safe to assume there are no inherent
issues with using said alloy nuts?.
Ta...Paul.
Wheel nuts need to be tightened enough to put a fair amount of elastic stretch on the wheel stud otherwise they will slacken off, I wouldn't
trust typical everyday aluminium alloys at that level of stress.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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daniel mason
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| posted on 20/4/14 at 10:46 AM |
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BT! where would I find some of this? never heard of it before and have been having trouble with 1 wheel in particular! I have cleaned all threads with
some cleaner and a tooth brush applied some grease and it seems a lot better!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 20/4/14 at 11:09 AM |
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If you do an eBay search on "aluminium graphite anti-seize" you should find it OK.
Motorcycle shops sometimes sell it in small tubes, it also has a Landrover part number.
I use the Delta D515 brand but they are all much the same, be aware it is a bit messy to use, a little goes a long way.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Jenko
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| posted on 20/4/14 at 01:40 PM |
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Wow....ok, lots of different views....I guess it's fair to say on a 550kg car, the stress may be less than a full size hot hatch, but food for
thought....
MY BLOG - http://westfieldv8.blogspot.co.uk/
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 20/4/14 at 06:37 PM |
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Don't see how. Most stress will be from tightening the nuts.
Also, I gather the MSA do not allow alloy nuts for any of their events. I wonder why?
And what are the advantages?
Sorry to be a bit of PITA over this, but after an idiot nearly caused an accident by using totally inappropriate wheel nuts (they were steel, but
small seats for steel wheels, being used on alloy wheels ) I have a vested interest. ie don't a wheel of car hitting me.....
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v8kid
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| posted on 21/4/14 at 06:18 AM |
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IIRC alloy wheel nuts are banned from the sprint and hillclimb series due to failures. Dunno howrelevent that nugget is for you I'm a chance but
I wouldn't use them 
Cheers!
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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mcerd1
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| posted on 21/4/14 at 08:43 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by v8kid
IIRC alloy wheel nuts are banned from the sprint and hillclimb series due to failures.
I've heard that too (no doubt someone here will have a copy of the book to confirm this)
personally Is say what's the point in risking the alloy nuts on such a safety critical part for minimal weight loss
btw heres some cheap and cheerful graphite grease: (probably not as fancy as the one BT uses but it works)
Graphite Grease, semi-solid Suitable for all uses 750g
its also good for the input splines on your gearbox to help stop the clutch seizing - a tin this size could last you years and years
-
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