coozer
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| posted on 20/8/14 at 03:07 PM |
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Brake bias valve?
Current setup...
Sierra master cylinder and servo, standard setup with the pedal box, range rover calipers all round, 4 pot on the front 2 cylinder calipers on the
back.
Plumbing up with one line to each front and one line down to the back..
Do I need a brake bias valve? Think I still have the one off the sierra, will that do?
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 20/8/14 at 06:13 PM |
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I found I had a decent setup without, until I went for bigger brakes all around. Then I was getting too much at the back.
If you can't adjust it out at the pedal, then yes. You should be able to lock all 4 wheels, fronts first. If you're getting rears locking
first, you need the valve.
They're simple to fit and quite effective.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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dave r
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| posted on 20/8/14 at 06:15 PM |
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the sierra valve works on inertia, and will need angling more to suit the weight of a kit car
i run sierra all round without the valve and it works fine
I'd love to give my imaginary friend a great big hug,
but this jacket makes it impossible.
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Ugg10
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| posted on 20/8/14 at 08:25 PM |
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Anyone know where I can get a sierra inertia valve fromas the ebay stock seems to have ran out? Are they available from for still, if so anyone have
the part number.
Think I will need one with my xr4x4 set up on my anglia just to be safe.
Anyone got any alternatives that are one port in, one port out other than the simple tap type valves I.e looking for an inertia one.
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1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
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