FERRARIST
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| posted on 4/10/14 at 01:18 PM |
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Rear suspension layout questions
Have few concerns about my rear suspension setup, and silly or not i rather prefer to ask than sorry afterwards.......
Below is 2 pictures of my "draft" rear suspension(front already sorted) which will take weight of my beloved Alfa 166 3.0V6.
I browsed here and US locost forums for different rear layouts, and because here in BG is very hard to find MX5 uprights or any other used for
locost's, i stick with the familiar to me italian parts(uprights)......
Entire upright will be joined with the wishbone via pipe 7, with two flat 8mm plates, one welded to pipe 7, other to the upright, both secured with
five 10mm bolts. It will be far more easy for me to dismantle parts, without compromise toe setup......
1 is 16mm LH rose joint, 2 is 18mm.......for upper wishbone i'm using 18mm rose as well......27x3mm seamless pipe for both lower and upper
arms.....
My concerns:
When entire upright is fixed longitudinally with all 5 bolts and rose joints, upper wishbone rose joint bolt must be absolutely above it's
fixing hole, because there is no lower ball joint allowing longitudinal movement. I can move lower wishbone 9mm front to rear because i'm using
one 6mm alloy "washer" in one side of the bushes and 3mm metal washer in the other side......same with upper wishbone - two 3mm metal
washers sideways on the bushes......
So there is no problem fixing all 3 rose joints, but it will be really tight fit and i'm wonder if this will cause any extra stress into upper
or lower wishbone.......????
If i remove pipe 5 and for toe settings use some clevis joint, will the spring-damper fixing point 6 be strong enough to carry entire load???
You may be violently critical in your opinions, it's my first project and i was not lucky enough to be born with the knowledge how-to build it
right from the beginning...
Thanks....
[Edited on 4/10/14 by FERRARIST]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 4/10/14 at 06:09 PM |
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I would remove the bit of square box you have running parallel to the chassis on the lower bone as it serves no purpose but removes any flex so loads
the brackets unnecessarily.
The toe adjuster would be better if you also removed tube 5 and extended the adjustment arm and just have a rose joint into threaded tube, add a nice
big gusset where the shock lands.
I would be concerned about all the cars weight being taken by the Rose joint @ 2, the closer you can get to the hub the better so swap the hubs around
and have the brakes trailing the disc if you are using those lugs to locate the calliper.
What you also need is an diagonal on the main frame to brace all the brackets.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 4/10/14 by mark chandler]
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FERRARIST
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| posted on 4/10/14 at 07:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
I would be concerned about all the cars weight being taken by the Rose joint @ 2, the closer you can get to the hub the better so swap the hubs around
and have the brakes trailing the disc if you are using those lugs to locate the calliper.
What you also need is an diagonal on the main frame to brace all the brackets.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 4/10/14 by mark chandler]
Nice, i also thought that square tube can be removed, glad to remove any unsprung weight.....
I can move entire upright 2-3cm in rose joint direction as you advised, caliper and disc are close but there is enough distance.......
Diagonals???? If you mean to put diagonals on the chassis frame, yes it will be done when suspension pickup points sorted.....
Thanks for your advise.....
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