JC
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| posted on 26/10/18 at 07:30 AM |
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Starter woes
Hi all,
My Locost was running and starting fine (MGB based.....long story). I had been out for a long run and parked on the drive for my passenger to get out.
When I went to put the car away, the starter was dead - all other electrics fine. As a precaution, I fully charged the battery but no joy.
Next day, I tried rocking and pushing the car in 4th gear - removed spark plugs to make it easier for the motor. Still no joy.
Then removed the starter motor and tested it - solenoid engages and it turns. I remounted it on the engine and first time, it turned the engine, but
slowly. Now no same as before - a slight click, sometimes a creaking like it is straining.
Is it a dead starter motor - do they go from fully working to not working so quickly??
Thanks!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 26/10/18 at 08:11 AM |
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Check the earths first.
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gaz_gaz
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| posted on 26/10/18 at 08:13 AM |
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Had the exact same issue with a Honda S2000 starter a couple of weeks ago.
Worked fine then suddenly didn't. Worked fine on the bench.. Sort of worked for a couple of starts when refitted to the car then didn't.
Replaced with a new one and the old one was clearly on its way out but I hadn't realised. The engine spins over quicker and starts much easier
now.
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steve m
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| posted on 26/10/18 at 08:33 AM |
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Oem starters do play up, and I had years of starting problems, low cranking speeds coupled with a higher compression engine
It was always a "will the bugger start" when ever I filled up with fuel, or stopped etc
As with the OP starter, think how many years old it must be, mine were at least 35, poss 40 years old
I had replaced ALL of the main cables, and made sure they were clean, new bushes etc inside, yet still had starting problems,
But since changing to a High torque starter motor, ive never had an issue, infact it spins the engine over so fast, I can see it on the rev
counter!!
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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JC
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| posted on 26/10/18 at 08:55 AM |
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Thanks Steve - I'm only 10 mins from Rimmer Bros and was debating whether to replace with OEM or Hi Torque....
£100 v £185 - its a no brainer I think!
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steve m
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| posted on 26/10/18 at 09:36 AM |
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Think my xflow one was about £180 ish, and ive never regretted buying it!
Also, my high torque starter draws a third of the current and weighs about half of the old Ford brick
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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starterman
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| posted on 26/10/18 at 10:31 AM |
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Let me know what it is and I'll have a look at what cost price is if you want.
Cheers
Mike
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JC
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| posted on 26/10/18 at 11:38 AM |
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its a powerlite rac184 - thanks
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starterman
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| posted on 26/10/18 at 01:25 PM |
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How long have you had the starter? If you want to send it down I'd be more than happy to have a look at it for you.
A New unit direct from Powerlite would be £148 including VAT and delivery.
Cheers
Mike
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JC
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| posted on 26/10/18 at 02:14 PM |
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Thanks 
Looks like it isn't the starter motor - tried a replacement the I could return, same issue.
Battery is an Odyssey 680 - unlikely to be that as I had been for a long run the previous day and the car was running fine...
Guess its hunt the earth time?....
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stripe
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| posted on 26/10/18 at 02:45 PM |
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does the starter solenoid need a relay on it??? i had to add a relay to power my starter solenoid it wasn't receiving enough juice after going
through the starter switch?
i found out the hard way after buying and new non returnable starter for my 4age - i had symptoms similar to yours. Adding the relay cured this and it
turns over faster than ever...
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steve m
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| posted on 26/10/18 at 04:01 PM |
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An easy fix to see if your earth leads are bad, is to connect a pair of jump leads
Black to the neg side of the battery and other end on to your engine
Red to the plus side on battery and the other end to the starter, either side of the solenoid, as one side will work the starter all on its own, and
the other with ign on
"Thanks
Looks like it isn't the starter motor - tried a replacement the I could return, same issue.
Battery is an Odyssey 680 - unlikely to be that as I had been for a long run the previous day and the car was running fine...
Guess its hunt the earth time?...."
You have checked that the battery is getting at least 13volt charging ??????
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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JC
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| posted on 27/10/18 at 09:59 AM |
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Well I found it fairly quickly.....
The main battery earth cable was routed to a stud on the bellhousing. On close investigation the ring terminal was broken almost all the way through
- no doubt caused by the movement of the engine and gearbox fatiguing it. Not sure why it hasn’t been done by the more conventional method (I
think..) of a braided strap to earth the engine, and earthing the battery to the chassis.... oh the things you discover when you buy someone else’s
creation!!
Any reason why I can't use a braided strap all the way to the battery?
[Edited on 27/10/18 by JC]
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steve m
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| posted on 28/10/18 at 08:30 AM |
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Theres no reason why you cant, but you still need to earth the chassis as well,
so why not battery to chassis to engine
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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