givemethebighammer
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| posted on 17/1/03 at 11:06 PM |
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help with sierra back end !!!
Just come in from the garage, I have been dismantling the rear suspension setup from a sierra (its off the car on the floor). There are two long bolts
holding the diff unit to the suspension beam (one at the top and one at the bottom). The top one came out with some encouragement from the big hammer
and a draft. The bottom one !!!%^&** is seized solid and no amount of whacking will shift it. I can't even turn the bolt using an extension beam with
a socket. I guess the dreaded bi-metalic corrosion has welded the bugger in. Any tips ? Can I use heat. It has been left soaking in WD40 over
night.
thanks
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 17/1/03 at 11:33 PM |
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At the worst, you could grind off the bolt head and nut from each end, and soak the shaft directly and drift it out.
I cant remember if there are 1 long bolt and two short bolts, or two long bolts and two short bolts when I did mine. Was about 18 months back. There
are the two little ones at the diff rear too IIRC.
atb
steve
good luck!
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 18/1/03 at 09:32 AM |
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Two long ones (top and bottom of diff)
and two short ones (sides of diff). I was trying to avoid damaging the bolt too much as I am not sure how much a new one will cost (Bound to be a main
dealer part !!)
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 18/1/03 at 09:57 AM |
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Bolt WILL be either main dealer or breakers yard, either way it won't be expensive.
I the blot clearly accessible in the middle. If it is accessible then 1 cut in the middle should release it albeit in two pieces.
Enjoy.
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givemethebighammer
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| posted on 18/1/03 at 01:13 PM |
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Got it out eventually , good soak in wd40 and a very hard whack with a BIG lump hammer and it very slowly came out. However I did rather burr the end
of the bolt so off to mail dealer to buy a new one !!!!
thanks
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 18/1/03 at 11:38 PM |
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AFAIR one bolt IS visible, tother long one isnt.
glad you got it out!
atb
steve
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geoff shep
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| posted on 19/1/03 at 04:39 PM |
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Had the same problem with mine - ream out/clean out the hole and put the new one in with a good amount of grease or copper slip or some other
corrosion preventer.
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James
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| posted on 20/1/03 at 11:40 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by givemethebighammer
Just come in from the garage, I have been dismantling the rear suspension setup from a sierra (its off the car on the floor). There are two long bolts
holding the diff unit to the suspension beam (one at the top and one at the bottom). The top one came out with some encouragement from the big hammer
and a draft. The bottom one !!!%^&** is seized solid and no amount of whacking will shift it. I can't even turn the bolt using an extension beam with
a socket. I guess the dreaded bi-metalic corrosion has welded the bugger in. Any tips ? Can I use heat. It has been left soaking in WD40 over
night.
thanks
It's the top one that's got me before. On the first Sierra I did having got the bolt part way I managed to then get the drift wedged underneath the
bolt! Neither would move either direction! 
In the end I found it was much easier to drop the whole subframe/diff/shaft et al (only 8 bolts or something) onto a skateboard and roll it out
sideways.
James
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kingr
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| posted on 20/1/03 at 12:01 PM |
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Having spent the entire weekend getting a rear subframe off a Sierra 4x4 Ghia (LSD and discs), I can confirm that it is definately easier to take the
whole subframe off then remove the bits, than to try to take it all to bits under the car. The big bolts on mine started off tight, and got tighter
and tighter as they got further up the threads. In the end I just ground them off and bashed the bolts through first with a screwdriver and club
hammer and then a bolster on the bolt head. The other came out comparatively easily, but the nut still needed grinding off. Next problem - getting
those annoying suspension arms off, any clues? Do I need a gargantuan socket to undo the bolt on the end of the hub?
Kingr
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James
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| posted on 20/1/03 at 02:17 PM |
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Whilst we're on the subject:
I spent rather a long time on Saturday in a scrappy trying to extract the LSD from a 2.8 4x4.
I had to give up in the end as it got too dark to work but I will return and this time I *will* succeed!
I don't have a Heynes with this diff so from those in the know I wanted to know the next step.
So far,
1. Undone prop bolts
2. Removed top diff bolt.
3. Removed 4 rear 'upper' diff bolts
4. Removed calipers
5. Removed discs
6. Loosened/removed 4(each side) hub to subframe bolts.
So, is the next step to remove the driveshafts? Being the LSD type they're fixed (I think) as opposed to just 'pulling' out like normal Sierra
ones. Do I therefore need to undo all those Torx (8 per shaft) which people have said are so hard to remove?
Is the only way around removing these Torx to remove the two suspension 'A' frames and then drop out the entire diff/shaft assembly?
Any help appreciated- I don't want to spend another cold/wet day at the scrappy!
Thanks,
James
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James
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| posted on 20/1/03 at 02:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by kingr
Having spent the entire weekend getting a rear subframe
[snip]
Kingr
You managed to post the same question before I'd hit the button myself! 
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James
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| posted on 20/1/03 at 02:25 PM |
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quote:
Next problem - getting those annoying suspension arms off, any clues? Do I need a gargantuan socket to undo the bolt on the end of the
hub?
Kingr
And 280lbs/ft of torque to do it according to my Heynes!!! 
Maybe more on the 4x4...
As I put in my post I think the way to do it is to undo those Torx bolts on the shaft- I'm just hoping there's another way!
Neither the hub nut you've mentioned nor the Torx seems very appealing!!!
Cheers,
James
[Edited on 20/1/03 by James]
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kingr
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| posted on 21/1/03 at 11:19 AM |
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Well, the good news is that I have undone all of the torx bolts without too much difficulty at all. I just loosed them off by hand with my air ratchet
and then whizzed them out, mine only had 6 bolt per joint though, not 8. The bad news is that the bolt on the end of the hub is never gonna come off,
I took two of the hub stud bolts out and put a large ish old adjustable spanner (I'm not talking enormous here!!) on the nut, wedged the hub with the
other two bolts and a hammer (I never abuse my tools!!) and then bashed the adjustable spanner with a dirty great club hammer, and it still didn't
budge.
Sadly, also my impact wrench only produces a "mingy" 230Lb/ft so that probably won't budge it either.
I think my next move will be to soak it with WD40 several times, bolt a piece of RHS to the two remaining studs, and then get the correct size socket
and a two foot long socket extension.
Kingr
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 21/1/03 at 01:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by kingr
Sadly, also my impact wrench only produces a "mingy" 230Lb/ft so that probably won't budge it either.
I think my next move will be to soak it with WD40 several times, bolt a piece of RHS to the two remaining studs, and then get the correct size socket
and a two foot long socket extension.
Kingr
Just a note or 2 here M8, Rear hub nuts I think are left &right handed threads depending on which side of the car you are so check direction of
rotation before trying to undo. And I think that you should still be able to remove the bearing carrier off the arm without undoing the hub nut. Just
undo the four bolts through the drive flange holes.
Enjoy.
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kingr
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| posted on 21/1/03 at 04:37 PM |
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JGG - I had noticed they were handed threads, but thanks for the alert. Also, I suspect you may be able to remove the hub section from the suspension
arm on drum braked assemblies, but the size of the flange for the drive shaft on disc brake versions is too big to do this. If I can find my camera
tonight, I'll put a pic up.
Kingr
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 21/1/03 at 07:18 PM |
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The other trick you can use if the nuts are toooo tight is to carefully cut with a hacksaw down through the nut Veryyyy close to the thread from lock
section down to thrust washer (almost), quick tap with Hammer & chissel will remove cut off section then similar treatment to remnants of nut in
direction of undo will cause nut to split & release. JD Cos you would have to fit new nuts anyway.
Enjoy.
& while the drive flange is off you could fit new studs.
[Edited on 21/1/03 by jollygreengiant]
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James
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| posted on 24/1/03 at 07:24 PM |
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At long last
I'm sure you'll all be please to know that after another 3 hours or so at the scrappy I'm now the proud possessor of one LSD etc. etc.
Unfortunately I couldn't undo the shafts Torx so currently the entire axle and suspension arms are in one piece in my car boot!
Would I be right in thinking that if I take out all 24 of the Torx bolts (6 each end of each shaft) I won't need to undo the hub nut?
Thanks,
James
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gjn200
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| posted on 25/1/03 at 08:41 PM |
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No, sorry but anyway surely you wern't gonna use them with out checking the bearings I'm gonna buy a socket to fit this week about £7.50 I
think, breaker bar and scaffold bar if needed!
<- Me!
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bob
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| posted on 25/1/03 at 09:04 PM |
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JAMES
I think the hub nuts are 41mm,i have a socket if you dont and your welcome to borrow it.
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