t.j.
|
| posted on 11/8/06 at 07:53 PM |
|
|
rose joints
I planning to use rose-joints at the Rear.
My IRS will have 2 M12 at the lower wishbone an 1 M16 at the top.
Which are best to use steel/steel, steel/bronze, or chrome/ptfe.
And are they in different shaft-lenghts?
In the book a have they are pretty short
M12 = 32 mm lenght of the tread
M16 only 37 lenght of the tread.
This doesnt' give me a lot of adjustable play.
[Edited on 11/8/06 by t.j.]
|
|
|
|
|
Deckman001
|
| posted on 11/8/06 at 07:56 PM |
|
|
I think it's nick skidmore you need to contact
Jason
|
|
|
froggy
|
| posted on 11/8/06 at 09:53 PM |
|
|
ROTFLMAO    !!!!class!!!
|
|
|
procomp
|
| posted on 12/8/06 at 01:18 PM |
|
|
Hi why use metric thread for suspension when every one else uses unf thread. Because it's a finer thread it allows for much more accurate
adjustments to be made.
cheers matt
|
|
|
JB
|
| posted on 12/8/06 at 02:58 PM |
|
|
Spherical Rod Ends
Its difficult to say what is "Best"......
The metal on metal ones (steel or bronze) generally have lower stiction but any clearance will be felt as a rattle. They also require lubrication.
I prefer stainless / reinforced PTFE as these last a long time and do not rattle. I tend to use a larger joint (1/2" bore) for suspension as the
bigger the joint the longer it will last (more surface area at the cost of increased stiction).
I use imperial because there is more choice and I can buy aircraft spec bolts very easily in imperial. I also have the left and right taps and reamers
for the housings (if using spherical joints and not rod ends).
My favourite makes are Silver and Goldline, NMB E Type.......but there are many other good makes.
RE: MOT on a loose joint. Even a worn joint will have less play than a soft rubber bush, the problem is you an feel the play in a joint.
John
[Edited on 12/8/06 by JB]
|
|
|